Railroad to Freedom

“There would be hundreds of men and women, white and black, who saw the succor of fugitives as a personal mission, and their homes as oases of hope for the desperate” (132).

The Book

In Bound for Canaan: The Underground Railroad and the War for the Soul of America, author Fergus M. Bordewich argues that the story of the Underground Railroad is far more significant that it is given credit. It is not just a piece of American history, but also the first integrated civil rights movement, democracy in action, and civil disobedience on a large scale.

Bordewich divides the story into four parts, tracing the development of the Underground Railroad from the first arrival of slaves in the United States to John Brown’s raid on Harper’s Ferry. Readers are introduced to the people who were impacted by and a part of the Underground Railroad. Their stories, just some of many, are interwoven throughout the book, often relying on their own accounts:

• Josiah Henson, a slave who escapes and becomes an Underground Railroad conductor
• Isaac Hooper, a Quaker who was a friend to free and runaway slaves
• Levi and Vestal Coffin, Quakers who are considered the founders of the Underground Railroad
• Frederick Bailey (later Douglass), escaped slave and well-known orator
• John Rankin, nationally known abolitionist whose home in Ripley, OH was a beacon to runaways
• Henry Brown, a slave who escaped Virginia in a box that was shipped to Philadelphia
• Harriet Tubman, escaped slave and the only women conductor of the Underground Railroad
• William Still, born free and leader of the Anti-Slavery Office in Philadelphia
  
• Henry Bibb, the first black journalist who escaped from multiple slave owners

Throughout the book, Bordewich draws in the political and cultural contexts to remind the reader what was happening, for these had a direct impact on the workings of the Underground Railroad. He writes in a way that draws the reader into the experiences of the people involved and provides the right amount of detail. No two escapes were the same and often required an element of creativity and daring. A section of photos in the middle includes drawings or photos of the people and places involved in the Underground Railroad. The story of the Underground Railroad is one of individuals and families who were willing to risk everything for freedom and to break laws that “they believed to be sinful but impossible to change by political means” (196).

The Place

The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is located in Cincinnati, on the banks of the Ohio River. This location is intentional, reminding visitors that slaves had to cross the Ohio River to escape. A mix of permanent, traveling, and video exhibits teach visitors the history of slavery in the Americas, the courage needed to flee slavery and help those fleeing, and the realities of modern-day slavery and human trafficking. Throughout the museum, visitors are introduced to key members of the Underground Railroad. Many of them are mentioned in Bound for Canaan, which is an ideal companion to the museum. It goes into greater detail than a museum can, due to limited space.

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10am to 5pm (with the last entry at 4:30pm). Tickets can be purchased online ahead of time or at the museum. On the first Saturday of the month, guided tours are offered and advanced registration is recommended. Garage and street parking are available; just be aware that the museum is next to the Cincinnati Reds and Bengals stadiums. Parking may be more difficult to find on game days.

An American Venture in Higher Education

“What began as a humble and inchoate project for a frontier college in the 1850s evolved into a noble and sustainable ideal, grounded in the firm support of social elites of Chicago who believed that higher education was both a public and social good and an emblem of civic prestige” (64).

The Book

Despite a rocky start and various difficulties throughout the years, the University of Chicago emerged as a significant institution in Chicago and higher education. The University of Chicago: A History by John W. Boyer recounts the history of the institution and the influence of key leaders. 

There were actually two Universities of Chicago. The first was founded in 1856 by Stephen Douglas, with Baptists, to educate in classics, grammar, science, and agriculture. It got off to a rocky financial start and its location was isolated from downtown Chicago. Enrollment declined as Chicago boomed and the university closed in 1886. In spite of the poor reputation of the first university, several Chicago leaders were able to persuade John D. Rockefeller (one of the wealthiest Baptists in the US) to pledge $600,000 for the second university. In 1889, Marshall Field donated land in Hyde Park and the second University of Chicago was chartered in 1890. 

The first president of the second university, William Harper, revolutionized the structure of instruction (the quarter system and majors and minors), developed a relationship with the community, and raised standards for undergraduate students to make sure more would continue in graduate studies. His vision was often in tension with the board and Rockefeller, especially when it came to funding. In the 1920s, work was done to develop more rigorous faculty research and move away from financial dependency on the Rockefellers. The mid-twentieth century found the University of Chicago in financial and enrollment trouble, just as its relations with Chicago and the neighborhood deteriorated. Since then, the university has worked to improve neighborhood amenities and work with the residents. 

The University of Chicago: A History is a very detailed history of the two universities. It is written more for an academic audience and is hard to read straight through. Many readers may find one or two chapters the most interesting, or choose to skip over some parts. Most chapters include information regarding various people (particularly each president), faculty tensions, curriculum, financial difficulties, and student life. The narrative is driven by the initiatives of each of the presidents, some of whom were able to accomplish more than others. In a few places, quotes from the student newspaper were included; I would have liked to have seen more of those, since they add a different perspective to the history.

The Place

Visitors to the University of Chicago, who aren’t prospective students, are able to walk around the campus. It is nestled in the historic Hyde Park neighborhood, surrounded by large trees and various architectural styles. To me, the highlight of the campus is the Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures. This museum focuses on ancient civilizations in the Middle East, or the Fertile Crescent. It is incredible to see artifacts from ancient Babylon, Egypt, and Persia (to name a few). Personally, I enjoyed seeing items that hearkened back to lessons in both history classes and Sunday School: mosaics from the gates of Babylon, tools used to build the pyramids, and wall reliefs from Assyrian throne rooms. 

The Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures is open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4pm, with extended hours on Fridays. No registration is required for individuals or small groups and there is a suggested admission fee. Depending on your interest level, plan for at least a half a day to walk through the various galleries. I have visited on a Saturday and weekday in the summer, both times the campus was not as crowded with students. We also walked around campus and visited Washington Park to see Lorado Taft’s Fountain of Time sculpture.

Two Boys from Dayton

 “…the distinctive popping, cluttering, flapping sound of engine and propellers drifted over from the Huffman pasture. The Wright boys were at it again” (289).

The Book

The Bishop’s Boys: A Life of Wilbur and Orville Wright by Tom Crouch is an in-depth look at the two men who succeeded where everyone else failed, inventing heavier than air powered flight. Wilbur and Orville were determined and meticulous. Their differences complemented each other, while their ability to argue through a problem spurred them to new ideas.

Crouch divides the book into three sections: Family, Wings, and World. “Family” lays the ground work for the following sections by exploring the lives and influence of the Wright Brothers’ parents, Milton and Susan, the experiences that shaped the brothers, and their early careers in printing and bicycles. “Wings” focuses on the early experiments of the brothers, from the late 1890s to 1904. Often bored, the brothers would look for another project. Wilbur became interested in flight first, with Orville joining later. Here is where their differences begin to complement each other: Wilbur was interested in the big picture and Orville in making the big picture work. Unlike all others pursuing flight, Wilbur believed the pilot needed complete control of all axes of flight – just like on a bicycle. This belief impacted the design of all their gliders and flyers.

After spending several years traveling to Kitty Hawk, NC, and realizing that this was no longer a hobby, the brothers searched for an alternative closer to home. In Spring 1904, they chose Huffman Prairie for its isolation (eight miles from Dayton) and location on the interurban line (a form of public transit). The 1904 machine struggled due to poor flying weather and mechanical problems. But, once the brothers built a catapult to launch the flyer, the take-offs were less risky and flights more successful. “World” begins with the success of the 1905 Wright Flyer III at Huffman Prairie. Throughout the Fall, their flights are increasingly longer, they demonstrate complete control over the machine, and attract spectators. Not long after, the brothers stopped flying to focus on obtaining a patent and contracts to sell the plane. The bulk of the section details the ups and downs of negotiating with the US and European governments, creation of the Wright Company, and maintaining their status as the first in flight. The brothers are often labeled as fakes due to their insistence on secrecy (all to protect their design). When Wilbur passes away in 1912, at the age of 45, Orville lost interest in the company. He sold it and walked away, preferring to tinker in his Dayton laboratory for the rest of his life.

Crouch writes in an engaging way, describing the technical details and experiments that are easy to understand and visualize. In some cases, the narrative slows to a play by play. Here, the reader can almost imagine what it would have been like to fly for the first time or watch a man fly for the first time. Crouch relies heavily on long passages from family letters to provide details and character insight, helping the reader visualize who Wilbur and Orville were. I particularly liked the chapters in the “Wings” section that explored Wilbur’s early thoughts about flight and where to experiment. There are a handful of black and white photos interspersed in the chapters; it would have been nice to have a few more of them. There were two areas where I think opportunities were missed. One was the too brief mention of the Wright Brothers Home Days Celebration in Dayton and the other was too much time spent on biographies of other individuals.

The Place

The Huffman Prairie Interpretive Center sits high above the Huffman Prairie Flying Field, where the Wright Brothers flew the world’s first practical airplane in 1905. On a clear day, it’s easy to imagine the Wright Flyer III soaring over the trees and circling the prairie. There may be some other curious people there and you strike up a conversation about a sight you have never seen before or thought was even possible!

I recommend that visitors start at the museum. It focuses on the Wright Brothers time at Huffman Prairie: developing and testing the Flyers and the flying school they started in 1910. There is very little overlap between this museum and the other sites in Dayton. Just outside is a memorial, dedicated in 1940. Once you complete your time in the museum, you can drive down to the flying field. A replica barn and catapult sit in the field, similar to the ones the Wright Brothers would have used, and interpretive signs are scattered around the field.

The Center is located on a public section of the Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. The Air Force has preserved the Flying Field and the National Park Service runs the museum. It can be a bit difficult to find, but isn’t far from the National Museum of the United States Air Force. It won’t take visitors long to explore the museum or view the flying field and admission is free.

The Vehicle City

 The Book

Remembering Flint Michigan: Stories from the Vehicle City takes readers on a trip through history and Flint, pointing out well-known and random tidbits. Reading it is similar to driving through town with a local. The chapters were originally articles published in an alternative newsletter (2004-2007), with some updates. 

Flint was founded in 1819, but events in the late 1890s and early 1900s are what put it on the map. David Buick founded the Buick Auto Company, which he later sold to William C. Durant (Durant-Dort Carriage Company). This sale was the precursor to the creation of General Motors in 1908. In 1900, Flint’s population was 13,103; but by 1920 it was 91,600. That population growth continued through the mid-20th century and resulted in numerous businesses, manufacturing companies, and amenities. Author Gary Flinn introduces readers to the M&S soda bottling company, Durant Hotel, Flint radio stations, and Flint’s version of the Coney Island hot dog (including the recipe for the special sauce). 

The best audience for Remembering Flint Michigan is Flint natives, especially those who enjoy reminiscing. Black and white photos, both from the past and present, depict various locations. It is written in conversational style and includes a lot of lists of the various iterations of buildings or businesses. I found myself hoping for more information about the people and history of the places. Some chapters got close to accomplishing that, particularly the ones on former Mayor William McKeighan (who ran the political machine) and the Community School Movement (which originated in Flint).

The Place

Flint, Michigan has had its share of challenges over the past several decades; however, the people of Flint are not letting that damper their desire to renovate, restore, and attract visitors. Probably the most obvious are the arches that straddle the brick paved Saginaw Street. They were originally erected in 1899 to provide light at night, but were taken down in 1919. In 2003, the arches returned to welcome visitors and residents. 

A few highlights of Flint include the downtown, Factory One, and the Flint Institute of Arts. Downtown Flint is like many rustbelt cities across America, reinventing itself after major employers closed or moved out. Local shops and restaurants sit alongside historic office buildings, the Flint Farmer’s Market, and the Capitol Theatre. Visitors will also have fun finding the numerous murals throughout downtown. My favorite was in an alley, on a parking garage, depicting Hollywood stars from the 1950s. Factory One is the birthplace of General Motors. Visitors, by appointment, can tour the factory and extensive archives. The Flint Institute of Arts is a great asset to the Flint community. Visitors can see a large collection of Picasso paintings, floor to ceiling medieval tapestries, and watch glass blowing. My favorite section was the glass sculpture; it was incredible to see what artists created! Hours differ, depending on the day of the week, and there is an admission fee. Although, compared to many art museums, the fee is minimal and county residents are admitted for free.

The Center of Ohio Government

“Built in an age when Americans believed that public architecture could shape beliefs, refine discourse, and instill patriotism, the Statehouse symbolizes the solidarity and permanence of Ohio’s government” (12).

The Book

Ohio Statehouse: A Building for the Ages does more than provide the history statehouse, it presents a building that has three purposes: a memorial to important Ohioans, the seat of state government, and an educational center. Authors Cheryl Straker and Chris Matheney walk readers through a “tour” of the Capitol Square, a ten-acre plot in Columbus made up of the Statehouse, Senate Building, Atrium, and grounds.

Unlike many state capitol cities, Columbus was not a pre-established town when it was chosen as the third location for Ohio’s state capitol. In 1812, four prominent men donated the ten-acre plot and a statehouse building opened in 1816. It wasn’t long until a new statehouse was needed, for safety and size needs. The legislature held a design competition and the top three designs were merged into a composite final design. Convicts began work in 1839, cutting Ohio limestone for the foundation, but it took 22 years to complete. Delays came from arguments amongst legislators, a cholera outbreak, and insufficient funds. The Ohio Statehouse went through a $10 million restoration project from 1990-1996. It is considered one of the best examples of Greek-revival architecture and, according to Frank Lloyd Wright, it is “the most honest of all American statehouses” (20).

Throughout the “tour”, readers are able to peak into the legislative chambers, hearing rooms, and offices. They also learn how the purposes of various sections have changed over the years and the meticulous detail that went into the historically accurate restoration. One totally random fact, that I can’t help but share: there once was a squirrel house served Columbus’s squirrel population. Citizens could come watch the squirrels explore the multiple rooms, porches, doors, and windows. Sadly, the squirrel house was demolished in 1917; but there are still plenty of monuments to see in Capitol Square.

Ohio Statehouse: A Building for the Ages is a thin version of a coffee table book, going a bit more in-depth than a guided tour. The images, photos, and sketches take precedent over the text and quotes from historically significant individuals are set apart. The section on the grounds and monuments was unique for its detailed descriptions, explaining why monuments were erected and including the inscriptions on the monuments. The book is thorough, even including information about the underground parking garage!

The Place

The Ohio Statehouse is not a tall building, but it commands attention in the heart of Columbus. Situated in the Capitol Square complex, the Statehouse is surrounded by a public park and monuments. Ohio has done a great job of using the Statehouse to both govern and educate, using every level of the building:

• The interactive exhibits of the Museum Education Center allow visitors the opportunity to learn about state government and hear from former legislators.
• The Map Room displays a 20’ x 20’ map of the state where visitors can walk across the counties.
• The artwork in the Rotunda highlights significant moments in Ohio history and influential Ohioans.
• The legislative chambers and offices provide inspiring settings for the work of governing.

My favorite part of the tour was the Rotunda and Cupola, because of the history depicted and the architectural features. Our tour guide explained that the legislature wanted both a cupola and a dome, so the architects gave them both. From the outside, you see a cupola, and from the rotunda, you see a dome.

When visiting the Ohio Statehouse, you have two options: free guided or self-guided tours. Guided tours are available seven days a week, with the exception of state holidays. Tours begin in the Map Room and are offered on the hour (times differ between weekdays and weekends). Reservations are not required for groups of 9 or less. If you choose a self-guided tour on the weekend, know that the House and Senate Chambers are locked. Our guided tour only included the House Chamber. Once your tour is complete, you are free to roam the halls, gaze up in the rotunda, visit the museum, and stop by the Ladies Gallery.

“Island Fortress”

“The island of Oahu offered the best natural port in the Hawaiian Islands and once the US Navy committed to establishing a major base there, the Army was assigned and enthusiastically undertook the mission to defend this against all known threats” (4).

The Book

When most people hear “Pearl Harbor” their immediate reaction is to think of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, which caught the US Army and Navy by surprise. What people don’t realize is the amount of thought and work that went into fortifying the island of Oahu from a naval and amphibious landing attack, not an attack from the air. Defenses of Pearl Harbor and Oahu 1907-50 introduces the reader to that fortification process.

Initial defense plans were developed in 1901, taking advantage of Oahu’s natural features and focusing on coastal and land attacks. From 1907 to 1938, the Army spent $150 million on defenses. Batteries (gun emplacements) were built at strategic locations along the coast; eventually there would be fifteen. They were typically two stories of reinforced concrete, with large guns on the upper level and smaller guns on the lower level. In addition, both the Army and Navy built airfields and anti-aircraft defenses. After the surprise attack on December 7, 1941, underground facilities were built and naval turrets were adapted for coastal defense. Post-World War II, many of the defense sites were adapted for different uses by the Army and Navy. Most still exist today because they were built to withstand an attack and are too difficult to destroy.

Authors McGovern and Williford do a good job of describing the design and construction of the various defense mechanisms around Oahu. For the most part, the information is easy to follow and doesn’t get too technical. However, this book is definitely more for a niche audience: those interested in military history and defense. The photos and illustrations throughout the book have very clear and detailed captions. There are a handful of computer illustrations that provide a detailed look when a photo isn’t available or descriptive enough. I appreciated these, but sometimes found the captions hard to read (they were often black text on a dark background).

The Place

The US Army Museum of Hawaii is located in Battery Randolph, one of the batteries built to help defend Oahu. Visitors learn about a variety of topics related to the defense of the Hawaiian Islands. I really enjoyed the museum because of this variety. The building itself is unique, made out of reinforced concrete with no windows. Interspersed throughout exhibits are mannequins staged to operate the battery against attackers. Exhibits about Hawaiian warriors defending their island precedes exhibits on the work of the US Army to build up the island’s defense. The impact of World War II on the military, civilian population, and Japanese Americans is explored. Finally, visitors learn about the role Hawaii played during the Vietnam War.

If this is the type of museum you enjoy, I would recommend planning plenty of time. We stopped in, after another tour, and ended up rushing through the last parts. While it doesn’t appear to be a big museum, there is a lot of information packed in. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am-5pm and admission is free. It is a part of Fort DeRussy and located in the heart of Waikiki. In fact, the famous beach is just on the other side of the battery.

President and Chief Justice

“William Howard Taft, the only president who went on to serve as chief justice of the United States, devoted his leadership of the executive and judicial branches to defending the U.S. Constitution above all” (2).

The Book

William Howard Taft by Jeffrey Rosen is a part of The American Presidents series. The aim of this series is to provide a compact and authoritative biography that explores the character and career of each president. Rosen does this by writing a biography that looks at Taft’s presidency and judgeship together. William Howard Taft views its subject from a constitutional perspective, not a political perspective, which is how Taft would have viewed himself. 

Rosen spends the first two chapters laying the foundation for Taft’s presidency (chapters 3-5) and judgeship (chapter 6). As a young boy and man, Taft found it hard to meet the high expectations of his father, a member of the Ohio Superior Court who prioritized the law over politics. This is a bit surprising to the reader, when you consider Taft’s accomplishments: graduated second in his class at Yale and considered the best debater of his class, youngest tax collector in the US at 24, appointed to the Ohio Superior Court at 30. And he was only getting started: next came Solicitor General of the US, US Court of Appeals for the Sixth Circuit, and dean and professor of Cincinnati Law School. Yet, Taft often felt insecure and his anxiety manifested in overeating.  

Taft’s mid-career was marked by positions that put service to his country or appeasing his family ahead of his own career desires. He spent three years as Civil Governor of the Philippines, which provided the opportunity to shape the country’s Constitution and future. Twice, he declined appointments to the Supreme Court – his dream – because he felt his work wasn’t finished in the Philippines. However, he did leave in 1903 to serve as Secretary of War in President Theodore Roosevelt’s cabinet. In 1908, the Republican party nominated him as a middle of the road candidate, between conservatism and radicalism. 

As president, Taft planned to continue Roosevelt’s policies by making them adhere to the Constitution. He operated like a judge in all his work. This included how he interacted with Congress, refusing to interfere or influence because he saw it as unconstitutional. Rosen covers four major issues of the Taft presidency: tariffs and tax reform, the environment, monopolies, and foreign affairs. In each issue, Taft’s commitment to honesty, party loyalty, and the Constitution often placed him at odds with others. This laid the foundation for a four-way 1912 election: Taft, Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and Eugene Debs. Taft’s defense of the Constitution was lost amidst the excitement of Roosevelt’s New Nationalism and Wilson’s New Freedom. Despite his struggles as president and loss in 1912, Taft still managed to leave a significant legacy creating 10 national parks and emphasizing trade relations over military force in diplomacy. 

Finally, in 1921, Taft achieved his dream job: Chief Justice of the United States. He threw himself into judicial reform, creating “the modern federal judiciary as a separate and cohesive branch of government” (113). Congress approved his three goals: a judicial conference of federal appellate judges led by the chief justice, the Judiciary Act of 1925, and a building just for the Supreme Court. In his nine-year tenure, he was a nationalist, strict Constitutionalist, and viewed the Supreme Court as the last line of defense.

I was excited to read William Howard Taft because the Introduction reminded me of the appreciation I had for Taft after visiting his home in Cincinnati. Rosen writes in a compelling way that is able to draw the reader in. The first two chapters move quickly through Taft’s early life, while the flow slows in chapters 3-6 to dive deeper into the presidency and judgeship. In these chapters, the reader learns more about the contrasting political platforms for the 1908 and 1912 elections, background on the four major issues of the Taft presidency, and his legal opinions from the Supreme Court. The only downside is the minimal attention paid to Taft’s family. The reader learns a bit about the influence Taft’s father and wife had, and his children are mentioned in passing.

The Place

The William Howard Taft National Historic Site is nestled in a Cincinnati neighborhood. Much has changed since President Taft was born there, especially the hospital directly across the street, but the atmosphere of the park helps transport visitors back to the 1860s and 1870s. As you walk through the front door, you are following in the footsteps of young Will Taft. Each room contains furniture and artifacts that he and his family used, including the law books in the library read by both Taft and his father. The rooms on the second floor are laid out as a chronological museum, highlighting artifacts and events from Taft’s professional career and personal life. Visitors can see his cabinet chair (Secretary of 
War) and the Bible he used to take the presidential oath and chief justice oath.  

This park includes the home where President Taft was born and grew up, the Taft Education Center, a small grassy area, and a parking lot. Visitors should head to the Taft Education Center first, where they can view the park film, explore special exhibits, and depart for a tour of the Taft Home. Admission is free. Guided tours are available every thirty minutes and cover the first floor of the house. Visitors take a self-guided tour of the second floor. The park is open daily, with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. 

We visited during the week, in the summer, and were part of a small tour. While a small park, this one does a great job on educating visitors about Taft. Often overlooked, his unwavering commitment to the Constitution and decades of service to America are reason enough to make a stop here. I walked away with a newfound appreciation for him and a desire to know more.