High Above or Below the Tree Line

 The Book

The Hocking Hills 1900-1950, by Judith Stoltz Makiskas, is a trip back in time, via postcards. As a part of the Postcard History Series the focus is on the visual. Throughout the book, readers get to see what life was like in the area surrounding Hocking Hill State Park.

The first chapter focuses on the trails and caves in and around Hocking Hills State Park. If a reader has already visited the Park, they will enjoy seeing postcards that capture everyday people hiking in the caves. The picture of Conkle’s Hollow State Nature Preserve doesn’t look much different than what I saw over fifty years later. The following six chapters focus on the people, events, businesses, and holiday celebrations in that area. While it was interesting to see them, I would have liked to have learned more about Hocking Hill State Park.

To be honest, it was hard to find a book about Hocking Hills State Park (maybe one of the readers of this blog knows of one). Most books were a hiking guide and not a history of the park. It would have been helpful if the captions in chapter one spent more time on the subject matter rather than the material or history of the postcard. The postcards do provide a window into everyday life in southeast Ohio, and reading the book is a bit like going through an old photo album with your grandparents.

The Place

Hocking Hills State Park is one of the best places to visit in Ohio during the Fall. The color of the leaves pop against the blue sky and the rock formations. Of course, it’s more crowded during that time; however, visitors can choose some of the lesser-known trails to explore.

Old Man’s Cave is a popular destination and is located by the Visitor Center. When we visited, the water was very low and we didn’t see the waterfalls. We did get to wander through rock formations far below the tree line. Adjacent to Hocking Hills State Park is Conkle’s Hollow State Nature Preserve. This was actually my favorite part of the trip. We started out on the upper trail, overlooking the gorge and tree line. Since it was a sunny day, it was fairly warm. Then, we descended into the gorge. The temperature dropped drastically and we were looking up at the trees.

Hocking Hills State Park is open year-round from sunrise to sunset. Admission is free and the Visitor Center has restrooms. Since you will be hiking, you’ll want to plan on dressing appropriately and packing snacks and water. Several of the trails require driving time in between and there is ample parking. Conkle’s Hollow has the same hours as Hocking Hills and a portion of the trail is wheelchair accessible.

Crafting the American Home

“Residential work […] remained his signature; though most architects who begin their careers designing houses avoid them when they have the opportunity to move onto large, more prestigious, and better-paying large-scale buildings, Wright continued to design houses” (235).

The Book

At first glance, Frank Lloyd Wright: The Houses, with photographs by Alan Weintraub and text by Alan Hess, is the typical coffee table book—full of commanding photographs introducing readers to numerous Wright homes. But, the book does more than that, it provides a biography of Wright through the lens of his designs.

In his early days (late 1880s-early 1900s), Wright focused on designs for houses, switching between traditional and experimental. His experiments soon led to what we call the Prairie Style today and many of them were built in the Chicago suburbs. These designs were the right fit for his middle-class clients who were self-made, active in the suburbs, and had children. Later, Wright’s designs were influenced by his time in Los Angeles and Arizona, and experimented with different materials like concrete blocks.

The 1930s brought a renewed interest in Wright’s style and, at 68, he became a celebrated architect. His houses were both large scale (like Fallingwater) and smaller sizes for the suburban middle class. He never stopped experimenting with materials or shapes, allowing him to continue to push the boundaries of residential architecture. Today, Wright’s influence can be seen on the mid-century ranch, the layout of the family home, and the embedding of a home in nature.

Frank Lloyd Wright: The Houses is first and foremost, a photography book. The exterior and interior of the featured homes are put on display, allowing the viewer to see the similarities, differences, and attention to detail. Wright didn’t just design houses; he also designed the furniture and fixtures. Some of the photos have detailed captions, but I often wished to see more connection between the essays and the photos. This would have helped me visualize what the essays described. The book is not meant to be read straight through and some of the essays can get quite detailed. Readers can pick a time period, read about it, or flip through the photos.

The Place

When you hear the name Frank Lloyd Wright, you don’t typically associate it with Ohio. Yet, nestled in an unassuming neighborhood of Springfield, Ohio is the Westcott House. While it isn’t one of the feature homes in Frank Lloyd Wright: The Houses, it has a lot of similarities with the ones that are included.

I had previously toured the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in Oak Park, Illinois. The Westcott House had many similarities, despite being built about a decade later. Our tour guide pointed out architectural details unique to the home and typical of a Wright house. The tour begins in one side of the gift shop—which used to be the garage, and continues through the backyard into the first floor living areas. As you walk through the first and second floors, you also learn about Burton and Orpha Westcott, prominent Springfield citizens.

The Westcott House is open for guided tours, three times a day, that last roughly 90 minutes. They are closed on Mondays and major holidays. There is an admission fee and street parking.

Old Hickory

“I shall anticipate with pleasure the place to be assigned me in the history of my country, and die contented with the belief that I have contributed in some small degree to increase the value and prolong the duration of American liberty” – Andrew Jackson (287-288).

The Book

American Lion: Andrew Jackson in the White House by Jon Meacham tackles the story of a complicated, and sometimes contradictory, figure who looms large over US history. Jackson the youth was scrappy, defensive, and an orphan. Jackson the man was proud, brave, passionate, stubborn, a family man, and a leader who inspired loyalty. Throughout the book, Meacham supports his argument that Jackson viewed the country as his family and he would defend it from anything, just as he would his personal family.

Jackson’s early years were far from stable: born after his father died, he was a servant in the home of wealthier relatives, lost both brothers to the Revolutionary War, and his mother died soon after. Despite this, and limited formal schooling, Jackson was well-read and earned his law license. After marrying, Jackson served in a variety of government roles in Tennessee and Congress. His success at the 1815 Battle of New Orleans propelled him to national and international fame. This almost led to the White House in 1824, but Jackson lost to John Quincy Adams in a very close election. In 1828, he defeated Adams and ushered in a reckoning for the political establishment.

A popular president, Jackson met opposition with a strengthened resolve. The eight years he spent in the White House were marked by several major issues: a state’s ability to nullify federal law, removal of Native Americans from their land, the role of the president and federal government, the National Bank, and a cabinet crisis. Throughout each issue, Jackson maintained that he knew best for the country and expanded the powers of the presidency. A sampling of facts reveals the type of president Jackson was: he survived two assassination attempts, chased one assailant with his walking stick, was formally censured by the Senate for his fight with the National Bank, and was the only president to pay off the national debt.

Meacham’s thesis that Jackson was the family man to the US allows for a different kind of biography. An emphasis is placed on Jackson’s personal side, which is important to truly understand an individual. Character sketches of Jackson draw the reader in, to help them understand, sympathize, and be frustrated with him. Letter excerpts from Jackson, his rivals, friends, and adversaries provide context into the people, relationships, and times. Two robust sections of black and white images are included. There is a lot of information, mainly focused on the years in the White House (1828-1836). For the most part it is easy to follow and engrossing, except when the narrative jumps ahead. The chapters are shorter in parts two and three, mimicking the quickening of the narrative. Some of the shorter chapters feel like you are missing something, particularly those on the 1824 and 1828 elections.

The Place

Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage provides visitors with the ability to fully immerse themselves in the adult life of the seventh president. Our visit began in the small museum, which walks visitors through the life of Jackson and displays artifacts from his early life, military career, and presidency. After the that began on the front porch. A costumed tour guide told of the people, architecture, and experiences that make up the building’s history. A highlight was seeing Jackson’s slippers (size 7!). From there we walked through the slave quarters and passed a cotton field. What I found particularly unique about this presidential home is that it is still a fully functional farm. There are over 1,000 acres of land; in fact, we saw turkeys and deer as we drove through.

The Hermitage is open daily, from 9am to 6pm. Visitors have the option to purchase a Grounds pass or a Mansion Tour pass (which includes access to the grounds and the museum). If you are going to visit, it makes the most sense to do the Mansion Tour for the full experience. Tickets can be purchased online or on-site. Photos are permitted in the museum and outside, but not in the mansion. There is quite a bit of walking on the grounds (the walkways are paved), with the buildings spread out. You could easily spend a whole day here, and there are plenty of places for a picnic lunch or there is a restaurant in the visitor center.

Dayton’s Classified Nuclear Past

“The work in Dayton was so essential to the success of the bomb project and so deeply hidden within the already-secure Manhattan Project…” (60).

The Book

When most people hear about the development of the atomic bomb, their first thought is not Dayton, Ohio. Author Linda Carrick Thomas sets out to change that in Polonium in the Playhouse: The Manhattan Project’s Secret Chemistry Work in Dayton, Ohio. That secret work, to produce refined polonium for the nuclear bomb trigger mechanism, still remains the most classified aspect of the Manhattan Project today.

The first atomic bomb was dropped on August 6, 1945. Only seven years earlier evidence of nuclear fission was found in uranium, making atomic weapons possible; and, four years earlier British scientists announced that an atomic bomb could be ready in two years. These two events accelerated the work of US scientists and military personnel in atomic weapons. The Manhattan Project was created in the summer of 1942 and housed in the Army, to ensure total secrecy. There were several locations throughout the country that were compartmentalized to help protect the work from any leaks.

Dayton was home to several locations, beginning in the spring of 1943. The Dayton Project operated in the Monsanto laboratory, leased space from the Dayton Board of Education, and converted the Talbott family’s private hall. The latter two were located in the heart of neighborhoods. Twenty-four-hour guards kept an eye on the work, as trucks with radioactive material drove in and out of the facilities. The chemists in Dayton purified polonium for the plutonium implosion bomb, with the first shipment for purification arriving in April 1945. Three months later, there was enough purified to test the first atomic bomb in New Mexico. Just two weeks after that, the parts for the plutonium bomb (Fat Man) arrived in the Pacific and it was dropped on Nagasaki August 9. It isn’t until then that the Dayton Project workers finally learned what they had been working on.

After World War II, nuclear research transitioned to universities and national laboratories. A new facility was built in Miamisburg, Ohio to continue the polonium work until it was decommissioned in 1993. Parts of the Dayton Project were declassified in 1983 and the late 1990s. As of the writing of this book, 2017, some is still classified.

Polonium in the Playhouse is a compact book that introduces the reader to many different parts of the story: the Manhattan Project, the Dayton Project, chemistry and nuclear research, and key individuals. For the most part, the chapters move quickly and the science is easy to follow. Thomas situates the Dayton Project within the greater Manhattan Project, explains the methods for recovering polonium from lead dioxide, and describes the polonium purification process. I found it helpful to read the first appendix, a science primer, before the narrative dives into the development of the bomb (in between chapters two and three). Black and white photos, charts, and drawings—directly related to the surrounding text—help readers visualize the people and science.

The Place

The Mound Cold War Discovery Center could be easily missed. It’s 20 minutes south of Dayton and in an unassuming office building. Across the street is the Miamisburg Mound, a prehistoric burial site that commands your attention more than the Discovery Center. However, once inside, visitors quickly learn how significant this site was to the ending of World War II. When I went with my dad—a former chemist and employee for a nuclear energy company—we spent quite a bit of time there. The accessible hands-on exhibits and artifacts helped to tell the story that began with racing to develop an atomic bomb and ended with satellite communications. I particularly enjoyed the Geiger counter that demonstrates how radiation protection works.

The Discovery Center is open Wednesday-Saturday from 10am to 4pm; admission and parking are free. It is self-guided, but group tours can be arranged. Depending on your interest level, you could spend less than an hour or over an hour there. The Mound Cold War Discovery Center is worth the drive, for it is just another reminder about the role Dayton has played in historic events throughout the years.

“Water Spouting”

Waikiki was “one of those interesting landscapes which the eye of a meditative mind could long contemplate with new felt pleasure and move slowly over without wishing to quit its various and picturesque beauties” (83-84).

The Book

One of the most recognizable beaches in the world, Waikiki, also has a unique place in Hawaiian history and culture. Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story, by George S. Kanahele, relies on oral histories, historical sources, and natural and scientific evidence to recreate the people, place, and culture for the reader.

The first Polynesians arrived on the island of Oahu roughly 1800 years ago. They first landed at what is now Bellows Field, on the eastern side of the island, eventually making their way to Waikiki (Hawaiian for “water spouting”). These early settlers were self-sustaining family units who fished and farmed taro (a root vegetable). Author Kanahele recreates community life based on what is known about Hawaiian culture: the labor-intensive taro farming, the use of plants to create tools and clothing, and the integral role the gods played in daily life. Once the population grew, the need for chiefs arose. The chiefs loomed large over the history and culture of Hawaii, eventually leading to the royal lineage.

In 1400, King Maʻilikūkahi moved his capitol to Waikiki. He divided the land of Oahu into districts and had it surveyed. The region prospered under him and he was respected by all his subjects. The next 400 years were marked by both effective and ineffective chiefs. In 1795, the battle of Nuʻuanu unified the Hawaiian Islands under King Kamehameha I, who built his capitol and residence in Waikiki. Just one year later, Kona and Lahaina joined Waikiki as the shared capitols of the kingdom. The capitol permanently moved to Honolulu in 1809, because its harbor could better accommodate ships of all sizes.

The population of Waikiki quickly declined, due to wars among the people, disease brought by Europeans, and the loss of capitol city status, and the taro fields and buildings fell into disrepair. Waikiki soon was seen as a traditional rural community, compared to the city of Honolulu. However, by the 1860s, an improved road in between the cities elevated Waikiki to a seaside resort. The first primitive bathhouse opened in 1881 and the first beachside hotel in 1888, the start of commercial hospitality.

Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story balances legends, natural science, cultural practices, and history to create an engaging narrative. The chapters begin with an introductory paragraph and are divided into short, topical sections. Black and white photos and maps are interspersed throughout. While helpful, they are often not related to the chapter they are located in. Kanahele goes into more detail for some components, like taro farming, to provide more context to the reader. In some respects, Waikiki feels more like a book about Oahu or Hawaiian culture and how that impacts Waikiki.

The Place

Today, Waikiki is very different from the community of taro farmers and fishermen and it’s come a long way since the first primitive bathhouse opened. Hotels, restaurants, and shops line the shore and the beaches are crowded with vacationers.

When my family visited, we only had a few minutes to walk along the sand and take in the views of Diamond Head and the Pacific Ocean. We were on Fort DeRussy Beach, which is under the jurisdiction of the US Army. The beach and park are open to the public. Towards the edge of the park is a pier that juts out into the Pacific Ocean; it provides great views of Waikiki at the end.

*For additional locations see these blog posts:

    Island Fortress (Dec. 5, 2023)

    V-J Day (Aug. 17, 2021)

    Mistakes and Surprises at the Pacific Fleet (Oct. 29, 2019)

    The Last Hawaiian Monarch (March 12, 2019)

    United the Islands (Oct. 2, 2018)

    A Day that Will Live in Infamy (June 26, 2018)

Kaskaskia

“[Starved Rock] is not less than two hundred and fifty feet high, perpendicular on three sides, and washed at its base by the river […] the effect upon the observer is striking and imposing” (152).

The Book

Many Illinois residents are familiar with the tale of how Starved Rock got its name: One Native American tribe laid siege to another Native American tribe seeking shelter at the top. However, The History of Starved Rock by Mark Walczynski is quick to point out that this tale has no grounding in history.

The Illinois were the original inhabitants of the land in what would eventually become the north central area of the state of Illinois. During the spring and summer, they would live together, farming and hunting; and during the fall and winter, they would split into smaller camps. In 1673, they had their first encounter with Europeans. Jesuit priest Marquette started a mission after leaving Frenchmen Jolliet’s expedition from Canada. A few years later, French explorer LaSalle visited and recognized the defensive benefits of Starved Rock. He established an alliance with the Illinois, including trade, for the next twenty years. In 1690, the once lush natural resources were depleted and both the French and Illinois abandon the area. 

The eighteenth century was marked by turmoil as two wars were waged. The first, the Fox Wars, pitted the French and their Native American allies against the Mesquakie tribe. At least one of the skirmishes was at Starved Rock. The second was the French and Indian War which resulted in the transfer of Starved Rock into British hands and eventually American hands. Starved Rock in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries saw quite a lot of change, as American settlers moved into the area. The Black Hawk War (1832) was the last attempt by Native Americans to protect their land; it was unsuccessful and they agreed to resettle west of the Mississippi River. Sixty years later, with the invention of the automobile and creation of highways, Starved Rock become a popular tourist destination. Amidst growing concern that the natural resources would be exploited in private hands, the state of Illinois purchased the land in 1911. Today, over 2 million visitors explore the park every year and there is still the challenge to preserve the park’s ecosystem. 

The History of Starved Rock presents two lesser-known aspects of Illinois history: the Native Americans and the French. As a reader, I appreciated the detail and research that Walczynski put into the book, enabling me to learn more about this part of history. The narrative flows well and the reader can feel like they are on an in-depth tour. One unique aspect of the book is that each chapter has both an English title and a Native American title. Throughout the book, there are black and white photos of the area and items at the Starved Rock Visitor Center. When the topography and geography descriptions get detailed, these are helpful to refer back to.

The Place

Since it’s opening in 1912, Starved Rock State Park has been a popular destination for both Illinois residents and out of state guests. Visitors come for a variety of reasons: Illinois history, Native American history, geology, and breathtaking nature views. My first visit was in eighth grade, to learn more about Illinois history and geology. We visited in the fall and had the opportunity to hike to the top of Starved Rock and learn about the Starved Rock Lock and Dam on the Illinois River. 

Starved Rock State Park is open 7am to dusk; there is no entry or parking fees. Depending on the weather and season, visitors can hike, picnic, fish, boat, or stay in the lodge or cabins.  The Visitor Center is open daily, with reduced hours during the winter months, and provides insights into the land, inhabitants, and wildlife. The park hosts events throughout the year including night hikes, eagle observations, and fall color tours. A questions and answers booklet, written by the Starved Rock Lodge, provides additional information.

A Buckeye in the White House

“I never saw anything finer than old Spiegel is now in her fall dress and colors […]. The dark red or maroon of the great white oaks, in contrast with the lighter colors of maples and hickories, make a picture of wonderful beauty” (Rutherford B. Hayes, 511).

The Book

Author Ari Hoogenboom bookends his biography of Rutherford B. Hayes with a call to place him in the proper perspective and to avoid divorcing his presidency from the context of the time. These editorials notes are what make reading Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President an interesting and educational experience.

Rutherford Birchard Hayes was born in 1822, two and a half months after his father died, in Delaware, OH. His early life was marked by health difficulties and a close relationship with his mother, older sister, and mother’s brother (Uncle Sardis). The influence of these three molded him into a public leader who was confident, virtuous, patriotic, and ambitious. Hayes’s education included a local school, two prep schools, Kenyon College, and Harvard Law School. Upon graduation, he moved to Cincinnati where he was a criminal defense lawyer. After several years as a traveling bachelor, Hayes married Lucy Webb in 1852. Their marriage was strong and loving, despite years of separation during the Civil War and the deaths of several young children.

Hayes was an early volunteer, enlisting in June 1861 as an officer in the 23rd regiment of Ohio Volunteers, to join the fight against slavery. During his four years, Hayes was wounded five times and had four horses shot out from under him. At the close of the Civil War, his focus shifted to politics. After a brief stint as a congressman, Hayes was elected to three terms as Ohio governor. As governor, he championed suffrage, civil service reform, prison reform, and desegregation. In 1876, Hayes was nominated as the compromise presidential candidate for the Republican party.

The Hayes presidency focused on the same initiatives the Hayes governorship did. For the protection of the rights of blacks in the south and civil service reform, Hayes was often at odds with both sides of the political aisle and could be naïve in his belief that people would always be fair and just. Pledging to only serve one term, he navigated opposition, worked to unify the Republican party, and strategically used the veto, helping to reestablish presidential power. Post-presidency, Hayes didn’t give up on his causes: universal education, civil service reform, and prison reform. When he wasn’t traveling for them, he was enjoying life at Spiegel Grove, where he loved the double veranda and entertaining family and friends. He passed away in 1893, four years after Lucy.

Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President is a formidable book to read (over 500 pages!). The amount of detail can be a bit overwhelming at times, but if a reader makes it to the end, they have a clearer sense of who Hayes was. Some readers may want to pick and choose chapters, depending on what interests them the most. The details do frequently contain fun anecdotes that bring the people to life. Hoogenboom liberally quotes letters to and from Hayes that add different insights and voices to the narrative. This allows the reader to observe Hayes’s political beliefs develop over time, from his own writings and thinking and the influence of family and friends. One of the most interesting sections, to me, was Hayes’s life after the presidency. Here, I did appreciate the detail as I learned about his active civic engagement at the local, state, and national levels.

The Place

The Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Library and Museums at Spiegel Grove is home to the first presidential library open to the public. It stands as a testament to Hayes’s commitment to civil and community service.

Out of all the presidential libraries and museums I have visited, this was one of my favorites. The wooded grounds are just big enough to transport visitors back in time, imagining what it was like when the Hayes family lived at Spiegel Grove. The museum begins with a detailed narrative and interesting artifacts from the political life of Hayes, helping the visitor understand the context of his decisions. Working backwards, the museum highlights important parts from Hayes’s early life and his service during the Civil War. The original museum building serves as a monument to Hayes and his collection of president signatures, a practice continued by the museum staff today. The home tour allows visitors to step into the personal life of Hayes, learning how important family was despite frequent separations. The whole family hardly ever lived at Spiegel Grove together, but their imprints are there.

The museum and library are open April to December, with limited hours in the winter months. Tours are required for the Hayes home, while the museum is self-guided. Tickets can be purchased online or at the museum. I would recommend planning for several hours, depending on interest, in order to see everything: the museum, home, graveyard, and the grove.

Colorado Castle

“Palmer’s new estate was difficult for eastern and midwestern folk to comprehend in one or two visits: a stately, fashionable Camelot amid the crags of the Rockies” (141).

The Book

A Kingdom of Their Own: The Story of the Palmers of Glen Eyrie by Stephen J. May introduces readers to the founder of Colorado Springs, Colorado, a man marked by his experiences and love for the outdoors. Not to be overlooked, the book also highlights his family and the home they built in the midst of the Rockies. 

Two experiences were particularly impactful for William Palmer: his service fighting for the Union in the Civil War and his career in the railroad industry. As a member of the abolitionist movement, Palmer was quick to organize a calvary troop. His skills were recognized by leadership who promoted him to brevet brigadier general at 28. For the rest of his life, he was known as General Palmer. In 1867, Palmer was hired by the Kansas Pacific Railroad to survey the best route from Kansas to the Pacific. While in Colorado, Palmer became enchanted with the land at the base of Pikes Peak and dreamed of building a town and home there. After buying the land, he created his own railroad (from Denver to Pueblo) and the town of Colorado Springs began to grow. 

Palmer had to work hard to convince his new wife, Queen, of the benefits of living in Colorado Springs. She was from New York City, well-educated, and enjoyed the benefits of living close to society and cultural affairs. Part of the convincing involved the promise of a stately home, fit for an English lord. She lived in a modest home, built in 1872, but didn’t live to see the completed Glen Eyrie Castle. In 1903, the home was enlarged to 65 rooms and included all the modern conveniences. The grounds were left as natural as possible, with numerous riding and hiking trails through the mountains. It was on one of those trails that a horse threw Palmer in 1906. Until his death three years later, Palmer was paralyzed from the waist down, limiting his ability to enjoy the outdoors. 

Glen Eyrie, a somewhat silent character in the book, passed between a few owners who used it sporadically. The Navigators, a Christian ministry, purchased the grounds and buildings in 1953. Today, the organization uses it has its headquarters and for training, a conference center, the community, and conservation. 

One of the aspects of this book that I really appreciated was the descriptions of frontier life, for a newly founded town, and the railroad survey work. May doesn’t go into extreme detail, but it is enough to draw the reader in (especially one who may not be as familiar with these topics). The narrative is supplemented by excerpts from letters by Palmer, Queen, and their oldest daughter, as well as contemporaries and family members. You get a sense of how much Palmer loved Colorado Springs and how torn Queen was with their separation. It would have been nice to include more about Glen Eyrie itself. For such an imposing building, it feels like too minor of a character in the narrative.

The Place

Over a hundred years after the Palmer family finished Glen Eyrie, visitors are still treated to tours of the estate and grounds. On the tour, you will learn about the Palmer family, the founding of Colorado Springs, and the ministry of the Navigators. We visited during the week in March, when it wasn’t too crowded. 

Tours are offered twice a day and are $12 per person. Most of the tour takes place indoors, but true to Palmer’s love for the outdoors, the tour does include some of the grounds. A separate geological walking tour is also available, but only during the summer months. Unlike many other historic homes, Glen Eyrie provides the opportunity to spend the night. Most rooms come with breathtaking views of the rock formations on the grounds.

Railroad to Freedom

“There would be hundreds of men and women, white and black, who saw the succor of fugitives as a personal mission, and their homes as oases of hope for the desperate” (132).

The Book

In Bound for Canaan: The Underground Railroad and the War for the Soul of America, author Fergus M. Bordewich argues that the story of the Underground Railroad is far more significant that it is given credit. It is not just a piece of American history, but also the first integrated civil rights movement, democracy in action, and civil disobedience on a large scale.

Bordewich divides the story into four parts, tracing the development of the Underground Railroad from the first arrival of slaves in the United States to John Brown’s raid on Harper’s Ferry. Readers are introduced to the people who were impacted by and a part of the Underground Railroad. Their stories, just some of many, are interwoven throughout the book, often relying on their own accounts:

• Josiah Henson, a slave who escapes and becomes an Underground Railroad conductor
• Isaac Hooper, a Quaker who was a friend to free and runaway slaves
• Levi and Vestal Coffin, Quakers who are considered the founders of the Underground Railroad
• Frederick Bailey (later Douglass), escaped slave and well-known orator
• John Rankin, nationally known abolitionist whose home in Ripley, OH was a beacon to runaways
• Henry Brown, a slave who escaped Virginia in a box that was shipped to Philadelphia
• Harriet Tubman, escaped slave and the only women conductor of the Underground Railroad
• William Still, born free and leader of the Anti-Slavery Office in Philadelphia
  
• Henry Bibb, the first black journalist who escaped from multiple slave owners

Throughout the book, Bordewich draws in the political and cultural contexts to remind the reader what was happening, for these had a direct impact on the workings of the Underground Railroad. He writes in a way that draws the reader into the experiences of the people involved and provides the right amount of detail. No two escapes were the same and often required an element of creativity and daring. A section of photos in the middle includes drawings or photos of the people and places involved in the Underground Railroad. The story of the Underground Railroad is one of individuals and families who were willing to risk everything for freedom and to break laws that “they believed to be sinful but impossible to change by political means” (196).

The Place

The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is located in Cincinnati, on the banks of the Ohio River. This location is intentional, reminding visitors that slaves had to cross the Ohio River to escape. A mix of permanent, traveling, and video exhibits teach visitors the history of slavery in the Americas, the courage needed to flee slavery and help those fleeing, and the realities of modern-day slavery and human trafficking. Throughout the museum, visitors are introduced to key members of the Underground Railroad. Many of them are mentioned in Bound for Canaan, which is an ideal companion to the museum. It goes into greater detail than a museum can, due to limited space.

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10am to 5pm (with the last entry at 4:30pm). Tickets can be purchased online ahead of time or at the museum. On the first Saturday of the month, guided tours are offered and advanced registration is recommended. Garage and street parking are available; just be aware that the museum is next to the Cincinnati Reds and Bengals stadiums. Parking may be more difficult to find on game days.

An American Venture in Higher Education

“What began as a humble and inchoate project for a frontier college in the 1850s evolved into a noble and sustainable ideal, grounded in the firm support of social elites of Chicago who believed that higher education was both a public and social good and an emblem of civic prestige” (64).

The Book

Despite a rocky start and various difficulties throughout the years, the University of Chicago emerged as a significant institution in Chicago and higher education. The University of Chicago: A History by John W. Boyer recounts the history of the institution and the influence of key leaders. 

There were actually two Universities of Chicago. The first was founded in 1856 by Stephen Douglas, with Baptists, to educate in classics, grammar, science, and agriculture. It got off to a rocky financial start and its location was isolated from downtown Chicago. Enrollment declined as Chicago boomed and the university closed in 1886. In spite of the poor reputation of the first university, several Chicago leaders were able to persuade John D. Rockefeller (one of the wealthiest Baptists in the US) to pledge $600,000 for the second university. In 1889, Marshall Field donated land in Hyde Park and the second University of Chicago was chartered in 1890. 

The first president of the second university, William Harper, revolutionized the structure of instruction (the quarter system and majors and minors), developed a relationship with the community, and raised standards for undergraduate students to make sure more would continue in graduate studies. His vision was often in tension with the board and Rockefeller, especially when it came to funding. In the 1920s, work was done to develop more rigorous faculty research and move away from financial dependency on the Rockefellers. The mid-twentieth century found the University of Chicago in financial and enrollment trouble, just as its relations with Chicago and the neighborhood deteriorated. Since then, the university has worked to improve neighborhood amenities and work with the residents. 

The University of Chicago: A History is a very detailed history of the two universities. It is written more for an academic audience and is hard to read straight through. Many readers may find one or two chapters the most interesting, or choose to skip over some parts. Most chapters include information regarding various people (particularly each president), faculty tensions, curriculum, financial difficulties, and student life. The narrative is driven by the initiatives of each of the presidents, some of whom were able to accomplish more than others. In a few places, quotes from the student newspaper were included; I would have liked to have seen more of those, since they add a different perspective to the history.

The Place

Visitors to the University of Chicago, who aren’t prospective students, are able to walk around the campus. It is nestled in the historic Hyde Park neighborhood, surrounded by large trees and various architectural styles. To me, the highlight of the campus is the Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures. This museum focuses on ancient civilizations in the Middle East, or the Fertile Crescent. It is incredible to see artifacts from ancient Babylon, Egypt, and Persia (to name a few). Personally, I enjoyed seeing items that hearkened back to lessons in both history classes and Sunday School: mosaics from the gates of Babylon, tools used to build the pyramids, and wall reliefs from Assyrian throne rooms. 

The Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures is open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4pm, with extended hours on Fridays. No registration is required for individuals or small groups and there is a suggested admission fee. Depending on your interest level, plan for at least a half a day to walk through the various galleries. I have visited on a Saturday and weekday in the summer, both times the campus was not as crowded with students. We also walked around campus and visited Washington Park to see Lorado Taft’s Fountain of Time sculpture.

Two Boys from Dayton

 “…the distinctive popping, cluttering, flapping sound of engine and propellers drifted over from the Huffman pasture. The Wright boys were at it again” (289).

The Book

The Bishop’s Boys: A Life of Wilbur and Orville Wright by Tom Crouch is an in-depth look at the two men who succeeded where everyone else failed, inventing heavier than air powered flight. Wilbur and Orville were determined and meticulous. Their differences complemented each other, while their ability to argue through a problem spurred them to new ideas.

Crouch divides the book into three sections: Family, Wings, and World. “Family” lays the ground work for the following sections by exploring the lives and influence of the Wright Brothers’ parents, Milton and Susan, the experiences that shaped the brothers, and their early careers in printing and bicycles. “Wings” focuses on the early experiments of the brothers, from the late 1890s to 1904. Often bored, the brothers would look for another project. Wilbur became interested in flight first, with Orville joining later. Here is where their differences begin to complement each other: Wilbur was interested in the big picture and Orville in making the big picture work. Unlike all others pursuing flight, Wilbur believed the pilot needed complete control of all axes of flight – just like on a bicycle. This belief impacted the design of all their gliders and flyers.

After spending several years traveling to Kitty Hawk, NC, and realizing that this was no longer a hobby, the brothers searched for an alternative closer to home. In Spring 1904, they chose Huffman Prairie for its isolation (eight miles from Dayton) and location on the interurban line (a form of public transit). The 1904 machine struggled due to poor flying weather and mechanical problems. But, once the brothers built a catapult to launch the flyer, the take-offs were less risky and flights more successful. “World” begins with the success of the 1905 Wright Flyer III at Huffman Prairie. Throughout the Fall, their flights are increasingly longer, they demonstrate complete control over the machine, and attract spectators. Not long after, the brothers stopped flying to focus on obtaining a patent and contracts to sell the plane. The bulk of the section details the ups and downs of negotiating with the US and European governments, creation of the Wright Company, and maintaining their status as the first in flight. The brothers are often labeled as fakes due to their insistence on secrecy (all to protect their design). When Wilbur passes away in 1912, at the age of 45, Orville lost interest in the company. He sold it and walked away, preferring to tinker in his Dayton laboratory for the rest of his life.

Crouch writes in an engaging way, describing the technical details and experiments that are easy to understand and visualize. In some cases, the narrative slows to a play by play. Here, the reader can almost imagine what it would have been like to fly for the first time or watch a man fly for the first time. Crouch relies heavily on long passages from family letters to provide details and character insight, helping the reader visualize who Wilbur and Orville were. I particularly liked the chapters in the “Wings” section that explored Wilbur’s early thoughts about flight and where to experiment. There are a handful of black and white photos interspersed in the chapters; it would have been nice to have a few more of them. There were two areas where I think opportunities were missed. One was the too brief mention of the Wright Brothers Home Days Celebration in Dayton and the other was too much time spent on biographies of other individuals.

The Place

The Huffman Prairie Interpretive Center sits high above the Huffman Prairie Flying Field, where the Wright Brothers flew the world’s first practical airplane in 1905. On a clear day, it’s easy to imagine the Wright Flyer III soaring over the trees and circling the prairie. There may be some other curious people there and you strike up a conversation about a sight you have never seen before or thought was even possible!

I recommend that visitors start at the museum. It focuses on the Wright Brothers time at Huffman Prairie: developing and testing the Flyers and the flying school they started in 1910. There is very little overlap between this museum and the other sites in Dayton. Just outside is a memorial, dedicated in 1940. Once you complete your time in the museum, you can drive down to the flying field. A replica barn and catapult sit in the field, similar to the ones the Wright Brothers would have used, and interpretive signs are scattered around the field.

The Center is located on a public section of the Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. The Air Force has preserved the Flying Field and the National Park Service runs the museum. It can be a bit difficult to find, but isn’t far from the National Museum of the United States Air Force. It won’t take visitors long to explore the museum or view the flying field and admission is free.

The Vehicle City

 The Book

Remembering Flint Michigan: Stories from the Vehicle City takes readers on a trip through history and Flint, pointing out well-known and random tidbits. Reading it is similar to driving through town with a local. The chapters were originally articles published in an alternative newsletter (2004-2007), with some updates. 

Flint was founded in 1819, but events in the late 1890s and early 1900s are what put it on the map. David Buick founded the Buick Auto Company, which he later sold to William C. Durant (Durant-Dort Carriage Company). This sale was the precursor to the creation of General Motors in 1908. In 1900, Flint’s population was 13,103; but by 1920 it was 91,600. That population growth continued through the mid-20th century and resulted in numerous businesses, manufacturing companies, and amenities. Author Gary Flinn introduces readers to the M&S soda bottling company, Durant Hotel, Flint radio stations, and Flint’s version of the Coney Island hot dog (including the recipe for the special sauce). 

The best audience for Remembering Flint Michigan is Flint natives, especially those who enjoy reminiscing. Black and white photos, both from the past and present, depict various locations. It is written in conversational style and includes a lot of lists of the various iterations of buildings or businesses. I found myself hoping for more information about the people and history of the places. Some chapters got close to accomplishing that, particularly the ones on former Mayor William McKeighan (who ran the political machine) and the Community School Movement (which originated in Flint).

The Place

Flint, Michigan has had its share of challenges over the past several decades; however, the people of Flint are not letting that damper their desire to renovate, restore, and attract visitors. Probably the most obvious are the arches that straddle the brick paved Saginaw Street. They were originally erected in 1899 to provide light at night, but were taken down in 1919. In 2003, the arches returned to welcome visitors and residents. 

A few highlights of Flint include the downtown, Factory One, and the Flint Institute of Arts. Downtown Flint is like many rustbelt cities across America, reinventing itself after major employers closed or moved out. Local shops and restaurants sit alongside historic office buildings, the Flint Farmer’s Market, and the Capitol Theatre. Visitors will also have fun finding the numerous murals throughout downtown. My favorite was in an alley, on a parking garage, depicting Hollywood stars from the 1950s. Factory One is the birthplace of General Motors. Visitors, by appointment, can tour the factory and extensive archives. The Flint Institute of Arts is a great asset to the Flint community. Visitors can see a large collection of Picasso paintings, floor to ceiling medieval tapestries, and watch glass blowing. My favorite section was the glass sculpture; it was incredible to see what artists created! Hours differ, depending on the day of the week, and there is an admission fee. Although, compared to many art museums, the fee is minimal and county residents are admitted for free.

The Center of Ohio Government

“Built in an age when Americans believed that public architecture could shape beliefs, refine discourse, and instill patriotism, the Statehouse symbolizes the solidarity and permanence of Ohio’s government” (12).

The Book

Ohio Statehouse: A Building for the Ages does more than provide the history statehouse, it presents a building that has three purposes: a memorial to important Ohioans, the seat of state government, and an educational center. Authors Cheryl Straker and Chris Matheney walk readers through a “tour” of the Capitol Square, a ten-acre plot in Columbus made up of the Statehouse, Senate Building, Atrium, and grounds.

Unlike many state capitol cities, Columbus was not a pre-established town when it was chosen as the third location for Ohio’s state capitol. In 1812, four prominent men donated the ten-acre plot and a statehouse building opened in 1816. It wasn’t long until a new statehouse was needed, for safety and size needs. The legislature held a design competition and the top three designs were merged into a composite final design. Convicts began work in 1839, cutting Ohio limestone for the foundation, but it took 22 years to complete. Delays came from arguments amongst legislators, a cholera outbreak, and insufficient funds. The Ohio Statehouse went through a $10 million restoration project from 1990-1996. It is considered one of the best examples of Greek-revival architecture and, according to Frank Lloyd Wright, it is “the most honest of all American statehouses” (20).

Throughout the “tour”, readers are able to peak into the legislative chambers, hearing rooms, and offices. They also learn how the purposes of various sections have changed over the years and the meticulous detail that went into the historically accurate restoration. One totally random fact, that I can’t help but share: there once was a squirrel house served Columbus’s squirrel population. Citizens could come watch the squirrels explore the multiple rooms, porches, doors, and windows. Sadly, the squirrel house was demolished in 1917; but there are still plenty of monuments to see in Capitol Square.

Ohio Statehouse: A Building for the Ages is a thin version of a coffee table book, going a bit more in-depth than a guided tour. The images, photos, and sketches take precedent over the text and quotes from historically significant individuals are set apart. The section on the grounds and monuments was unique for its detailed descriptions, explaining why monuments were erected and including the inscriptions on the monuments. The book is thorough, even including information about the underground parking garage!

The Place

The Ohio Statehouse is not a tall building, but it commands attention in the heart of Columbus. Situated in the Capitol Square complex, the Statehouse is surrounded by a public park and monuments. Ohio has done a great job of using the Statehouse to both govern and educate, using every level of the building:

• The interactive exhibits of the Museum Education Center allow visitors the opportunity to learn about state government and hear from former legislators.
• The Map Room displays a 20’ x 20’ map of the state where visitors can walk across the counties.
• The artwork in the Rotunda highlights significant moments in Ohio history and influential Ohioans.
• The legislative chambers and offices provide inspiring settings for the work of governing.

My favorite part of the tour was the Rotunda and Cupola, because of the history depicted and the architectural features. Our tour guide explained that the legislature wanted both a cupola and a dome, so the architects gave them both. From the outside, you see a cupola, and from the rotunda, you see a dome.

When visiting the Ohio Statehouse, you have two options: free guided or self-guided tours. Guided tours are available seven days a week, with the exception of state holidays. Tours begin in the Map Room and are offered on the hour (times differ between weekdays and weekends). Reservations are not required for groups of 9 or less. If you choose a self-guided tour on the weekend, know that the House and Senate Chambers are locked. Our guided tour only included the House Chamber. Once your tour is complete, you are free to roam the halls, gaze up in the rotunda, visit the museum, and stop by the Ladies Gallery.

“Island Fortress”

“The island of Oahu offered the best natural port in the Hawaiian Islands and once the US Navy committed to establishing a major base there, the Army was assigned and enthusiastically undertook the mission to defend this against all known threats” (4).

The Book

When most people hear “Pearl Harbor” their immediate reaction is to think of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, which caught the US Army and Navy by surprise. What people don’t realize is the amount of thought and work that went into fortifying the island of Oahu from a naval and amphibious landing attack, not an attack from the air. Defenses of Pearl Harbor and Oahu 1907-50 introduces the reader to that fortification process.

Initial defense plans were developed in 1901, taking advantage of Oahu’s natural features and focusing on coastal and land attacks. From 1907 to 1938, the Army spent $150 million on defenses. Batteries (gun emplacements) were built at strategic locations along the coast; eventually there would be fifteen. They were typically two stories of reinforced concrete, with large guns on the upper level and smaller guns on the lower level. In addition, both the Army and Navy built airfields and anti-aircraft defenses. After the surprise attack on December 7, 1941, underground facilities were built and naval turrets were adapted for coastal defense. Post-World War II, many of the defense sites were adapted for different uses by the Army and Navy. Most still exist today because they were built to withstand an attack and are too difficult to destroy.

Authors McGovern and Williford do a good job of describing the design and construction of the various defense mechanisms around Oahu. For the most part, the information is easy to follow and doesn’t get too technical. However, this book is definitely more for a niche audience: those interested in military history and defense. The photos and illustrations throughout the book have very clear and detailed captions. There are a handful of computer illustrations that provide a detailed look when a photo isn’t available or descriptive enough. I appreciated these, but sometimes found the captions hard to read (they were often black text on a dark background).

The Place

The US Army Museum of Hawaii is located in Battery Randolph, one of the batteries built to help defend Oahu. Visitors learn about a variety of topics related to the defense of the Hawaiian Islands. I really enjoyed the museum because of this variety. The building itself is unique, made out of reinforced concrete with no windows. Interspersed throughout exhibits are mannequins staged to operate the battery against attackers. Exhibits about Hawaiian warriors defending their island precedes exhibits on the work of the US Army to build up the island’s defense. The impact of World War II on the military, civilian population, and Japanese Americans is explored. Finally, visitors learn about the role Hawaii played during the Vietnam War.

If this is the type of museum you enjoy, I would recommend planning plenty of time. We stopped in, after another tour, and ended up rushing through the last parts. While it doesn’t appear to be a big museum, there is a lot of information packed in. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am-5pm and admission is free. It is a part of Fort DeRussy and located in the heart of Waikiki. In fact, the famous beach is just on the other side of the battery.