America’s First Seaside Resort

“Few seaside towns possess such a resource – hundreds of quaint, handcrafted cottages situated on tree-lined streets with the Atlantic providing the backdrop” (174).

The Book

While there are many ocean towns up and down the East Coast, only Cape May, New Jersey can claim to be the original tourist destination. Before the American Revolution, the Philadelphia merchant class was escaping the city summer heat for sea-bathing in Cape May. Historic Cape May: The Summer City by the Sea, by Emil R. Salvini, takes the reader on a tour through the ups and downs of this historic resort. 

Cape Island (the name changed to Cape May in 1869) quickly became a successful resort because it was easily accessible from the north and the south. Both the steamboat and rail lines increased the number of people who could visit for a day or longer. The first boardwalk in New Jersey was completed in 1863 and, in 1864, cottages joined a handful of hotels for visitors. Cape May weathered major fires, hurricanes, clashes between yearlong residents and tourists, and failed development schemes in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries. In the mid-20^th century, Cape May faced the erosion of beaches, rumrunners during Prohibition, and the proximity of U-boats during World War II. Through it all, the resort did its best to attract tourists.

The completion of the Garden State Parkway in 1958 finally provided a reliable road for visitors and commuters in and out of Cape May. As a result, interest grew in restoring the historic cottages and hotels and extending the summer season. Today, the town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, boasting a more intimate character and charm than many of the other seaside resorts. The reader benefits from Salvini’s admiration for Cape May. The book is well-researched and the chapters are supplemented with drawings, maps, and photos, many from the author’s personal collection. Buildings that are described in the past are noted as present day bed-and-breakfasts, for the modern visitor. The chapters vary in length and act as vignettes placed in a chronological timeline. Quite a bit of time is spent describing the different eras of hotels and cottages. While not everyone will appreciate these details, they are a big part of the draw of Cape May.

The Place

Cape May can serve as a day trip destination, weekend getaway, or longer vacation. There is a lot to see and do, whether you want to lounge on the beach, shop and eat local, stroll the promenade, or take part in numerous indoor and outdoor activities.

My visit was just for a day. We walked along the Washington Street Mall, three blocks of street converted into a pedestrian outdoor mall. There are a variety of shops that cater to the out-of-town tourist and seasoned New Jerseyan. Lunch was a delicious crab cake sandwich at the Oceanview Diner and Family Restaurant, with views of the ocean from our table. Our trip ended with a visit to the Cape May Lighthouse, located in Cape May Point State Park. While you are at the State Park, you can also watch the migratory birds and see the World War II bunker. Someday, I would like to go back to stay in one of the many historic bed and breakfasts or hotels and explore more of what Cape May has to offer.

Down the Shore

 

“Ocean City’s founders envisioned the resort as a community for families in particular to enjoy” (46). 

The Book

Ocean City: America’s Greatest Family Resort by Fred Miller traces the growth of Ocean City from an island used to raise cattle to a thriving family town at the shore. The book begins with the story of five founders (three of whom were brothers) that wanted a family resort rooted in their Methodist beliefs. For majority of the city’s history, stores and the beach were closed on Sundays. That tradition is no longer in place, but the sale of alcohol is still not permitted in Ocean City.

Miller traces the early stages to the city’s prosperity, to weather tragedies, to the present. Included are interesting facts, such as this: Ocean City was one of the first in the nation to pay the lifeguards (p. 41) and those lifeguards have always been quick to rescue swimmers. Miller also discusses the growth of the city and details various events and celebrations. At times the topics jump quickly between paragraphs, but the history is easy and fun to read.

The Place

For over half my life, I have spent part of summer vacation in Ocean City, New Jersey. I always looked forward to the week my family spent down the shore and several of the places we would visit are mentioned in Miller’s book. The boardwalk provides amusement rides, miniature golf, go-karts, shops, and all kinds of restaurants. My family would visit Playland's Castaway Cove, which first opened in 1930. Now Playland is home to amusement park rides: including a Ferris wheel, roller coasters, and a giant pirate ship over the entrance.

Shriver’s Candy Store is the oldest continuous store on the boardwalk and was founded in 1898. Shriver’s is known for their salt water taffy and visitors can watch it being made in the back of the store. Another favorite is Johnson’s Popcorn, who will ship their popcorn anywhere in the country.