Railroad to Freedom

“There would be hundreds of men and women, white and black, who saw the succor of fugitives as a personal mission, and their homes as oases of hope for the desperate” (132).

The Book

In Bound for Canaan: The Underground Railroad and the War for the Soul of America, author Fergus M. Bordewich argues that the story of the Underground Railroad is far more significant that it is given credit. It is not just a piece of American history, but also the first integrated civil rights movement, democracy in action, and civil disobedience on a large scale.

Bordewich divides the story into four parts, tracing the development of the Underground Railroad from the first arrival of slaves in the United States to John Brown’s raid on Harper’s Ferry. Readers are introduced to the people who were impacted by and a part of the Underground Railroad. Their stories, just some of many, are interwoven throughout the book, often relying on their own accounts:

• Josiah Henson, a slave who escapes and becomes an Underground Railroad conductor
• Isaac Hooper, a Quaker who was a friend to free and runaway slaves
• Levi and Vestal Coffin, Quakers who are considered the founders of the Underground Railroad
• Frederick Bailey (later Douglass), escaped slave and well-known orator
• John Rankin, nationally known abolitionist whose home in Ripley, OH was a beacon to runaways
• Henry Brown, a slave who escaped Virginia in a box that was shipped to Philadelphia
• Harriet Tubman, escaped slave and the only women conductor of the Underground Railroad
• William Still, born free and leader of the Anti-Slavery Office in Philadelphia
  
• Henry Bibb, the first black journalist who escaped from multiple slave owners

Throughout the book, Bordewich draws in the political and cultural contexts to remind the reader what was happening, for these had a direct impact on the workings of the Underground Railroad. He writes in a way that draws the reader into the experiences of the people involved and provides the right amount of detail. No two escapes were the same and often required an element of creativity and daring. A section of photos in the middle includes drawings or photos of the people and places involved in the Underground Railroad. The story of the Underground Railroad is one of individuals and families who were willing to risk everything for freedom and to break laws that “they believed to be sinful but impossible to change by political means” (196).

The Place

The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is located in Cincinnati, on the banks of the Ohio River. This location is intentional, reminding visitors that slaves had to cross the Ohio River to escape. A mix of permanent, traveling, and video exhibits teach visitors the history of slavery in the Americas, the courage needed to flee slavery and help those fleeing, and the realities of modern-day slavery and human trafficking. Throughout the museum, visitors are introduced to key members of the Underground Railroad. Many of them are mentioned in Bound for Canaan, which is an ideal companion to the museum. It goes into greater detail than a museum can, due to limited space.

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10am to 5pm (with the last entry at 4:30pm). Tickets can be purchased online ahead of time or at the museum. On the first Saturday of the month, guided tours are offered and advanced registration is recommended. Garage and street parking are available; just be aware that the museum is next to the Cincinnati Reds and Bengals stadiums. Parking may be more difficult to find on game days.

President and Chief Justice

“William Howard Taft, the only president who went on to serve as chief justice of the United States, devoted his leadership of the executive and judicial branches to defending the U.S. Constitution above all” (2).

The Book

William Howard Taft by Jeffrey Rosen is a part of The American Presidents series. The aim of this series is to provide a compact and authoritative biography that explores the character and career of each president. Rosen does this by writing a biography that looks at Taft’s presidency and judgeship together. William Howard Taft views its subject from a constitutional perspective, not a political perspective, which is how Taft would have viewed himself. 

Rosen spends the first two chapters laying the foundation for Taft’s presidency (chapters 3-5) and judgeship (chapter 6). As a young boy and man, Taft found it hard to meet the high expectations of his father, a member of the Ohio Superior Court who prioritized the law over politics. This is a bit surprising to the reader, when you consider Taft’s accomplishments: graduated second in his class at Yale and considered the best debater of his class, youngest tax collector in the US at 24, appointed to the Ohio Superior Court at 30. And he was only getting started: next came Solicitor General of the US, US Court of Appeals for the Sixth Circuit, and dean and professor of Cincinnati Law School. Yet, Taft often felt insecure and his anxiety manifested in overeating.  

Taft’s mid-career was marked by positions that put service to his country or appeasing his family ahead of his own career desires. He spent three years as Civil Governor of the Philippines, which provided the opportunity to shape the country’s Constitution and future. Twice, he declined appointments to the Supreme Court – his dream – because he felt his work wasn’t finished in the Philippines. However, he did leave in 1903 to serve as Secretary of War in President Theodore Roosevelt’s cabinet. In 1908, the Republican party nominated him as a middle of the road candidate, between conservatism and radicalism. 

As president, Taft planned to continue Roosevelt’s policies by making them adhere to the Constitution. He operated like a judge in all his work. This included how he interacted with Congress, refusing to interfere or influence because he saw it as unconstitutional. Rosen covers four major issues of the Taft presidency: tariffs and tax reform, the environment, monopolies, and foreign affairs. In each issue, Taft’s commitment to honesty, party loyalty, and the Constitution often placed him at odds with others. This laid the foundation for a four-way 1912 election: Taft, Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and Eugene Debs. Taft’s defense of the Constitution was lost amidst the excitement of Roosevelt’s New Nationalism and Wilson’s New Freedom. Despite his struggles as president and loss in 1912, Taft still managed to leave a significant legacy creating 10 national parks and emphasizing trade relations over military force in diplomacy. 

Finally, in 1921, Taft achieved his dream job: Chief Justice of the United States. He threw himself into judicial reform, creating “the modern federal judiciary as a separate and cohesive branch of government” (113). Congress approved his three goals: a judicial conference of federal appellate judges led by the chief justice, the Judiciary Act of 1925, and a building just for the Supreme Court. In his nine-year tenure, he was a nationalist, strict Constitutionalist, and viewed the Supreme Court as the last line of defense.

I was excited to read William Howard Taft because the Introduction reminded me of the appreciation I had for Taft after visiting his home in Cincinnati. Rosen writes in a compelling way that is able to draw the reader in. The first two chapters move quickly through Taft’s early life, while the flow slows in chapters 3-6 to dive deeper into the presidency and judgeship. In these chapters, the reader learns more about the contrasting political platforms for the 1908 and 1912 elections, background on the four major issues of the Taft presidency, and his legal opinions from the Supreme Court. The only downside is the minimal attention paid to Taft’s family. The reader learns a bit about the influence Taft’s father and wife had, and his children are mentioned in passing.

The Place

The William Howard Taft National Historic Site is nestled in a Cincinnati neighborhood. Much has changed since President Taft was born there, especially the hospital directly across the street, but the atmosphere of the park helps transport visitors back to the 1860s and 1870s. As you walk through the front door, you are following in the footsteps of young Will Taft. Each room contains furniture and artifacts that he and his family used, including the law books in the library read by both Taft and his father. The rooms on the second floor are laid out as a chronological museum, highlighting artifacts and events from Taft’s professional career and personal life. Visitors can see his cabinet chair (Secretary of 
War) and the Bible he used to take the presidential oath and chief justice oath.  

This park includes the home where President Taft was born and grew up, the Taft Education Center, a small grassy area, and a parking lot. Visitors should head to the Taft Education Center first, where they can view the park film, explore special exhibits, and depart for a tour of the Taft Home. Admission is free. Guided tours are available every thirty minutes and cover the first floor of the house. Visitors take a self-guided tour of the second floor. The park is open daily, with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. 

We visited during the week, in the summer, and were part of a small tour. While a small park, this one does a great job on educating visitors about Taft. Often overlooked, his unwavering commitment to the Constitution and decades of service to America are reason enough to make a stop here. I walked away with a newfound appreciation for him and a desire to know more.

America’s First Professional Baseball Team

“Everywhere you turn in Great American Ballpark you run into something that hearkens back to the rich history and tradition of the Queen City and the Cincinnati Reds” (20).

The Book

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly: Heart-Pounding, Jaw-Dropping, and Gut-Wrenching Moments from Cincinnati Reds History by Mike Shannon takes readers on a topical journey through the history of the first professional baseball team. It could be tempting to only focus on the successful teams and gloss over the poor choices or embarrassing moments. But Shannon doesn’t do that. He writes like a fan would talk: punctuating the ups and downs with commentary and tidbits. 

The Reds (originally the Cincinnati Red Stockings) are considered the first professional baseball team because they were the first to pay all of the players and expect them to take the job seriously. Throughout their history, they’ve played in eight different home ballparks, and have won five World Series. In just one decade (1970s), the Reds won six division championships, four National League pennants, and two World Series. They’ve had their share of highly talented players and players that made poor decisions, just like any other ball club. 

When you’ve been around since 1869, there are plenty of ups and downs to highlight. Shannon does a good job of using examples from through Reds history and spotlighting a wide variety of players. The main narrative is supplemented with text boxes that provide additional facts and photos. These supplements help prevent the main text from reading like a list. The final section, on Reds culture, was difficult to finish. It felt out of place and either could have been an appendix or reorganized to focus on the fans themselves. That being said, any fan of baseball and the Reds would find this book interesting.

The Place

The Reds Hall of Fame & Museum is located at the Great American Ballpark (the home stadium of the Cincinnati Reds). The museum is a must for Reds fans, but also very interesting for baseball fans and those with a passing interest. I took my mom, who became a Reds fan in middle school, for her birthday. It was great experiencing the museum through her eyes and watching her relive her memories. I also enjoyed learning about the history of baseball and the many accomplishments of the Reds. Visitors are treated to exhibits about the Reds ballparks, the very first team, the evolution of baseball equipment, a timeline with artifacts, and the Reds Hall of Fame. The last room of the museum houses the five World Series trophies and runs footage from the games. It was clear that the Reds Hall of Fame & Museum was designed by fans who love the team. 

The museum hours of operation vary, depending on the time of year and if there is a game that day, so make sure to check the website before planning a visit. There is a price of admission and tickets can be purchased ahead of time. You don’t have to have a ticket for a baseball game to tour the museum; and if you want an even more in-depth experience, tours of the ballpark and clubhouse are available.

More than Just a River

“And the Ohio River can still cause one to ‘pause’, ‘wonder’, and ‘scarcely believe in its reality’” (11).

The Book

The River Book: Cincinnati and the Ohio makes a bold, yet seemingly accurate claim “Without the Ohio River, there would be no Cincinnati community” (6). The rest of the book regales the reader with reasons why this is an accurate claim: travel, economy, goods and livestock, entertainment, and leisure. The early settlers of Cincinnati were dependent on the river and today’s citizens are no different, although the reasons might have changed.

Each chapter is written by a different contributor with a unique connection to the Ohio River: from employees on a riverboat to lifelong residents. This collection of chapters explains the importance, value, and history of the river. Readers will read of pirates and outlaws, the steamboat industry, energy and power, dam and lock systems, and floods to name a few. One chapter, I found particularly interesting, focused on the nine bridges that cross the Ohio River. Area residents originally believed that the river was too wide for a bridge to span. However, in 1862 a pontoon bridge was created to help with the defense of Cincinnati during the Civil War. In 1866, after ten years of construction, the first official bridge opened: Roebling Suspension Bridge. Today, it is fascinating to see so many bridges (for cars, railways, and pedestrians) in a short span of space.

The River Book is well-written and easy to follow. There was some overlap between chapters, which would make the book ideal for a coffee table. Throughout the chapters are photos and drawings that depict the river, city, and watercraft throughout history. It would be interesting to create an updated edition (this was printed in 1981) to provide a look at the changes since publication. The authors cover pretty much every facet a reader could think of and provide a good introduction into the significance of one of the major parts of American geography.

The Place
The Ohio River truly is an impressive sight to see. It is 981 miles long, with Cincinnati being close to the middle. On one end is Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and on the other end is the Mississippi River, passing through six states. Despite the evidence of modern technology and buildings, it is still possible to close your eyes and imagine a bustling riverfront full of steamboats, passengers, and livestock or goods.

One way to recapture that image is to take a Riverboat cruise with BB Riverboats. There are a variety of cruises to choose from, but I would recommend the Historic Cincinnati Sightseeing Cruise. This cruise provides insight into the history of Cincinnati and takes passengers west to the Roebling Suspension Bridge and then east beyond Mt. Adams. There is nothing quite like floating under numerous bridges and feeling the breeze as you take in the view. The river cruises do require a reservation and are available most days of the week.

More Than a Train Terminal

“The dome towers above you and behind you, and the long concourse extends almost as far as you see” (46).

The Book

Cincinnati Union Terminal: The Design and Construction of an Art Deco Masterpiece tells the story of one of the most impressive structures in America. Authors, Linda C. Rose, Patrick Rose, and Gibson Yungblut introduce the reader to the Cincinnati Union Terminal and the process of its construction.

The desire for a unified train terminal in Cincinnati began in the 1890s. Seven railroads traveled through Cincinnati and they each had their own terminal. In 1928 the preliminary work began and at this time, there were on average 17,000-20,000 railroad passengers daily in Cincinnati. The Terminal was designed with function and aesthetics in mind; the design permeated every aspect and detail (including the creation of a unique font). One aspect of the design is particularly interesting: when a traveler arrived from the east, they cannot see any train tracks. Walking up to the main concourse, the traveler is struck by the size and beauty of a building whose main function is hidden.

Cincinnati Union Terminal is easy to read and the perfect format for a coffee table book: the chapters are short and the pages are full of photos. The authors provide a detailed description of the design and functions of the Terminal. The book is a compilation of booklets published in 1933 to commemorate the grand opening of the Terminal. Because of this format, it can feel like a listing of facts. These facts do help the reader visualize the construction, but for the average reader they might want to read in small dosages. No matter the reader’s interest, he or she will walk away with a greater appreciation for the work that went into the design and construction. 

The Place

Today, the Cincinnati Union Terminal’s main function is no longer the accommodation of hundreds of thousands of train passengers. There is an Amtrak station and freight trains still use the tracks. Instead, the Terminal was converted into the Cincinnati Museum Center. The Center houses the Cincinnati History Museum, Museum of Natural History & Science, Duke Energy Children’s Museum, and an Omnimax Theater.

Guests still enter from the east and encounter the same awe as travelers’ years ago. Once inside the largest half-dome in the western hemisphere, you are struck by the design and the two massive murals depicting the history of transportation in the United States and the history of Cincinnati. It might be wise to plan several days for a visit to the Museum Center or you can pick and choose which museums to visit. In addition to the museums, visitors can simply take in the half-dome or explore Tower A, the original control tower. Tickets are required for entry and there is a fee for parking.