The Enemy Below

“…since 1954 [U-505] has rested high and dry among the trees in Jackson Park alongside the Museum [of Science and Industry] near the shore of Lake Michigan” (1).

The Book

Rear Admiral Daniel V. Gallery, USN presents the reader with a unique memoir: the capture of a Nazi submarine, the U-505. But it is more than a recounting of one moment at sea, Twenty Million Tons Under the Sea packs in the Battle of the Atlantic, U-boat details, a biography of the U-505, and editorializing from a seasoned sailor.

The majority of the book focuses on the story of the U-505. Work on the U-505 was completed in 1941; it was first stationed off the coast of Africa and then in the Caribbean. Under its first captain, the U-505 was successful in her quest to sink many ships. However, when the captain changed, the crew encountered “bad luck.” Most likely that luck can be traced to French workers sabotaging the U-boats when they came back to port. Intermittently, Gallery will interject the U-505 narrative with an explanation of where he was stationed or naval tactics. The book moves towards its climactic moment: a play by play of the June 1944 capture of U-505. In the final pages of the book, Gallery details how the U-505 ended up in the Museum of Science and Industry and shares his thoughts on war and what we should learn and remember.

Like most memoirs, Twenty Million Tons Under the Sea, reads like a conversation. Gallery writes what happened, provides his own opinions, and creates dialogue for the U-505 crew. Some of the information in the book comes from the captured records on the U-505 as well as correspondence with the crew after World War II. The best part about this book is the focus on a part of World War II that is not prominent in education. Gallery seems aware that his reader lacks detailed knowledge of submarines and the Battle of the Atlantic, taking the time to explain and clarify.

Today, the U-505 is beached in a museum, but it is much more than a popular exhibit: on September 25, 1954 it was “dedicated as a memorial to the 55,000 Americans who have lost their lives at sea” (325).

The Place
The U-505 exhibit immerses visitors into the story of the “first enemy war ship captured [by the United States Navy] in battle on the high seas since 1815” (315). The walk to the submarine explains the Battle of the Atlantic from the toll U-boats took on shipping to the capture of U-505. Then, you turn a corner and are confronted with the massive U-boat; looking down on it, as the American sailors would have in 1944. Visitors to the museum can pay extra for a tour of the submarine; this is well worth the cost. The tour is popular, so it would be wise to buy tickets beforehand.

While the U-505 exhibit is impressive, it is not the only exhibit at the Museum of Science and Industry. Visitors can ride through a replica coal mine, explore genetics and watch baby chicks hatch, and view the changes in transportation (among other exhibits). There is something for everyone: young and old, science geeks and history nerds. There is an entrance fee, with some exhibits requiring an extra cost (with a timed ticket), and an underground parking garage (also with a fee).

The Last Hawaiian Monarch

“…I was driven from my prison-once my palace…” (295).

The Book

Hawaii’s Story by Hawaii’s Queen provides a unique perspective into the life of Liliuokalani, the last Hawaiian monarch. Originally published in 1898, the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy is still fresh on Liliuokalani’s mind. The publisher’s foreword provides a brief introduction to the author, history of Hawaii, and the complicated relationship between native Hawaiians and those of American descent. All the chapters following are Liliuokalani’s words and commentary on political events.

While time is spent on her early life, the focus of the book is on Liliuokalani’s adult life and the last Hawaiian monarchs. Born in 1838, Liliuokalani was adopted as a baby by a Hawaiian high chief (a common practice) and in 1877 she was named the heir apparent to the throne by her brother King Kalakaua. After her brother’s death, Liliuokalani became Queen in 1891 and reigned until a provisional government was forced onto the Hawaiian people in 1894.

Liliuokalani is cognizant of the fact that many of her readers aren’t Hawaiian, so she explains the customs and heritage of the island nation. The autobiography is written so that it is easy to follow and presents a window into what life was like during the last days of the monarchy. Liliuokalani tells the Hawaiian side (her side) of the revolt to overthrow the monarchy and strongly presents the cause for Hawaiian autonomy. She calls out the individuals who spread rumors and lies and wrestled the control of the islands from the constitutional monarchy.

The final chapter of Hawaii’s Story by Hawaii’s Queen ends with a plea to the American readers: see the overthrow for what it was and reject the treaty of annexation.

The Place

Iolani Palace is a must see on a visit to Honolulu. The palace is restored to what it looked like when the last two Hawaiian monarchs (King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani) reigned. Although it isn’t a large palace, the attention to detail and architecture are striking and beautiful: the royal crest is seen in window etchings and wall engravings. Each room has a proud history and shares the story of Hawaiian culture. But, there is also an underlying current when the visitor is confronted with the reality of the overthrow of the monarchy. Queen Liliuokalani’s throne room became the location of her trial for treason and an upstairs bedroom became her prison.

There are two tour options: guided tours and self-led audio tours. When my family visited, the guided tours were sold out and we took the self-led audio tour. This provided a unique way to learn about the Hawaiian monarchy at your own pace. Visitors are given headphones and an iPod preloaded with audio tracks for each of the rooms. A visitor can choose to hear the standard information or choose to go more in-depth. I enjoyed this opportunity to explore the various rooms and learn about the monarchs who resided there. Visitors can also explore the basement galleries to learn about the restoration of the Iolani Palace and see various artifacts. 

The Architect and the Chicago Skyscraper

“[The Rookery’s] dramatic interior is one of the best examples of [Burnham and Root] working together, each contributing to the architectural quality of the outcome” (34).

The Book

Daniel H. Burnham: Visionary Architect and Planner by Kristen Schaffer attempts to remedy the past treatment of Burnham by showing his influence in designing architecture, as well as managing an architecture firm. According to Schaffer, Burnham deserves more credit for his work in designing numerous significant buildings, as opposed to history focusing on his managerial skills.

There are five sections to the book: a brief introduction and historical treatment, Burnham’s work with his first architecture partner (John Root), the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair and immediately following, the City Beautiful movement and later buildings, and historical treatment. These sections are more focused on Burnham’s professional work and an in-depth look at significant buildings. A reader learns of architectural detail in a way that is accessible and gains insight into the mind of Burnham. The main takeaway is that Burnham had a wide-ranging impact on architecture, the role and look of the office building, city planning, and firm management.

One of the best parts about this book are the numerous photographs showcasing the wide variety of buildings Burnham designed or collaborated on. Of course, Burnham is known for his work in Chicago (including The Rookery and Marshall Fields, now Macy’s), but he also designed significant buildings in Washington, DC (Union Station), New York City (Flatiron Building), Philadelphia (Wanamaker’s, now Macy’s), and London (Selfridge’s). The text frequently refers to the photographs to help the reader see the intricacies of the architecture and development in Burnham’s design.

The Place

The Rookery is one of those buildings that words have a difficult time describing. At the time it was built, it was the largest office building in Chicago (eleven stories) and the indoor light court leaves visitors with a sense of awe. We were downtown Chicago one day and decided to stop in The Rookery. It is located just down the block from the Chicago Board of Trade and while the eleven stories of the Rookery may appear dwarfed, it still holds its own and the interior is breathtaking. Because the building houses shops and eateries (as well as businesses) you are able to walk in off the street and explore the lobby. Visitors will find information about both the original construction and the renovation by Frank Lloyd Wright.

If you would like to explore The Rookery further, the Chicago Architecture Center offers several walking tours that include this historic skyscraper. While I haven’t been on one of these specific tours, I have been on another tour by the Center and it was informative and interesting.

Dayton Aviators

“With their homemade machine, Wilbur and Orville Wright had shown without a doubt that man could fly and if the world did not yet know it, they did” (107).

The Book

Much has been said and written about Wilbur and Orville Wright; the down-to-earth brothers who brought flight to the world. Yet, The Wright Brothers by David McCullough, still provides the reader with a fresh take on a well-loved story.

The first several pages serve as an orientation to the Wright Brothers as adults-a character sketch helping the reader understand who these two men were. The rest of the book helps the reader to see those character sketches in action, from early days through all the time spent tinkering and experimenting to recognition as the inventors of the airplane.  

McCullough provides a brief overview of the family history, the Wright Brothers as children, and their early jobs (printing and bicycle makers). After setting the stage with the first flights in Kitty Hawk (1900-1903), McCullough focuses the book on what happened next. The reader learns of the test flights at Huffman Prairie outside Dayton, OH, the early interest of both Britain and France (but not America) in the Wright Flyer, and the time spent, by both brothers, staging demonstrations in Europe and America. Throughout the book, it becomes clear that Wilbur and Orville were meticulous, protective, and committed to solving the centuries old question of flight.

The Wright Brothers is well-written and easy to read. McCullough introduces enough technical language to help the reader grasp the development of flight, but also provides explanations to help the reader understand. Family letters are used to help show what the various members of the Wright family were thinking or experiencing. This lends authenticity to the book. The reader walks away with a greater appreciation for the Wright Brothers and amazement at how quickly the airplane developed.

The Place

Dayton, OH provides numerous opportunities to explore the lives of two of her favorite sons. Two of these provide a look at the early chapters and the last chapters of the Wright Brothers lives.

First, is the Wright Cycle Complex. This complex includes the Wright’s fourth bicycle shop and a museum. Tours of the bicycle shop are provided for visitors. The museum encompasses several parts: the Wright Brothers, the history of innovation, Paul Laurence Dunbar (an African-American poet who was friends with the Orville Wright), the location of the Wright’s printing shop, and a parachute museum. Admission is free, but there are seasonal operating hours. Just blocks away, is the location of the original Wright Family home on Hawthorn Street.

Second, is Hawthorn Hill, the home completed in 1914 for the family to live in (Orville, sister Katherine, and father Bishop). Unfortunately, Wilbur died prior to its completion. Hawthorn Hill is a beautiful house that is currently being restored to the way it looked when the Wrights lived there. The restoration does not prevent tours, which are offered twice on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Pre-paid admission is required and visitors ride a bus to the home. 

Horticulture, Architecture, and Decorative Arts

“Henry Francis duPont transformed into a museum the house on a hill at Winterthur, Delaware, where two generations of his family had lived before him” (11).

The Book

Henry F. duPont and Winterthur: A Daughter’s Portrait by Ruth Lord introduces the reader to a man who had a love for gardening and preserving American architecture and decorative arts. duPont chose to share that love with the world when he opened Winterthur Museum, Garden, and Library.

Lord provides a brief look into the duPont ancestry and how they arrived in the Brandywine Valley area of Delaware. A great-grandfather founded the gun powder company that eventually became the DuPont chemical company. Henry Francis duPont was born into this family and lived a life of material luxury. However, Lord paints a picture of an insecure and dependent child who struggled in school. 

At an early age duPont showed an interest in gardening and interior design. When duPont’s mother died, he took over the household duties at Winterthur and eventually the grounds, gardens, and farms. While visiting a friend in 1923, duPont was bitten by the American architecture and decorative arts “bug”. He began to collect interiors of buildings as well as furniture. The idea for a museum gradually developed and it opened in 1951. Lord says, “[duPont] did not buy things wholesale but more often with a definite plan in mind” (188). This is evident in the woodwork from five states incorporated into the museum and the multiple period rooms on display.

Henry F. duPont and Winterthur is written like a relative is sharing her memories – it does jump around some, but it is easy to follow. The chapters are short and several provide unique insights or perspectives into duPont’s life. One interesting chapter focuses solely on the planning that went into weekend parties and dinners. It is evident from the book that duPont loved this land and American decorative arts and sought to preserve both. One could argue that, with the largest collection of Americana and vast native landscapes, he succeeded.

The Place
Winterthur is named for a Swiss town and it means "door of winter". Yet, the Winterthur Museum, Garden, and Library is anything but just a door of winter. Year round it offers breathtaking views in the gardens and a peak into American decorative arts in the museum.

In creating the garden, duPont planned for year-round blooming. From February to November, various plants paint colors in the gardens where visitors can stroll or take tram rides. Winterthur is known for its azaleas, which bloom in May. I visited in July and was able to see hostas and hydrangeas. We took a tram ride around the grounds to see various gardens, the barn, and the old post office.

A tour of the home provides a look into life for the duPonts and their guests, as well as historic American decorative art. The tour begins with the first piece duPont collected and from there each room reveals his passion to preserve this part of American history. The dining room provides a glimpse into how meticulously duPont planned each meal (from the food, to the china, to the flowers).

There are a variety of admission packages available, with some providing an in-depth tour of the museum. Winterthur is closed on Monday, so make sure to plan accordingly. It would be better to tour the grounds during nice weather and year-round blooming does allow for different scenery each visit. 

Uniting the Islands

“…here, where there is a breathtaking view of the jagged green volcanic peaks of Kaneohe and Kailua to the north, there is also a long and very steep precipice tumbling to the lowlands” (253).

The Book

The Warrior King: Hawaii’s Kamehameha the Great takes the reader through the life of Kamehameha, the man who unified the Hawaiian Islands. Prior to this, the islands were ruled by various chiefs and there was always a struggle for power. Author Richard Tregaskis does caution the reader that prior to 1778 (when Captain James Cook arrived), there are no dates in Hawaiian history. There also was no written language in Hawaii, all history was handed down orally.

Kamehameha was from the island of Hawaii and was a great athlete, trained at the warrior school. At the age of 14, Kamehameha moved the Naha Stone (similar to the sword in the stone of the King Arthur legend); legend said that whoever moved this stone would be Hawaii’s greatest king and one day unite the islands. The first half of the book focuses on Kamehameha’s participation in various power struggles among the various island chiefs. The arrival of British explorers begins to have an effect on Kamehameha, for he sees the benefit of their goods (particularly military) in his quest to control the islands.

In the 1790s, Kamehameha successfully conquers the islands of Maui and Molokai. After subduing a revolt on Hawaii, Kamehameha sets his sights on Oahu. His forces face little resistance in Waikiki because the island defenders moved inland toward the Nu’uanu Pali Pass. The defenders thought the steep height and rugged terrain would slow down Kamehameha’s forces and cannons. However, Kamehameha drove the defenders into the lowlands, attacked, and the enemy was driven into the jagged mountain pass. Now, Kauai was the last island left not under his control. It wasn’t until 1810 that the leader of Kauai met with Kamehameha and agreed to submit to his rule. Kamehameha’s last words, in 1819, were “I have given you-the greatest good: peace. And a kingdom which-is all one-a kingdom of all the islands” (303).

The Warrior King is a fascinating look into the early history of Hawaii, the culture and way of life, religion, politics, and family relations. The book includes drawings of the Hawaiian people and the islands to provide a glimpse into a different time period. The first half of the book felt less like the biography of Kamehameha and more a biography of the islands. Much time is spent on the struggle for control of the islands, prior to Kamehameha’s major role. However, the book helps provide an introduction to a unique culture and history.

The Place

The Nu’uanu Pali Lookout  provides gorgeous views of Oahu, whether it is sunny or overcast. In order to get to the lookout, you must drive down a long road that feels like you are in the jungle. After a bit, there is an opening for a small parking lot. As you walk from the parking lot to the lookout, you are suddenly greeted with a view of a green valley, mountains, and the Pacific Ocean. It is easy to simply want to take in the views for as long as possible. The park provides information about Kamehameha the Great’s battle to unify the islands at this spot and visitors can visualize the fighting that ensued.

There is a fee for parking, put the lookout is free. Be prepared for a sudden change in temperature when you exit your car. The wind is very strong and adds a chill to even a hot and sunny day. When my family visited, we had just come from a day at the beach and swimsuits and cover-ups did not keep us warm. 

“Time goes, you say? Ah no! Alas, Time stays, we go” [Henry Austin Dobson]

“…as a whole, the monumental sculpture is essentially a joyous celebration of the moment with all the splendor and pageantry of life” (160).

The Book

Lorado Taft: The Chicago Years by Allen Stuart Weller introduces the reader to an American sculpture who left a mark on Chicago. In a sense, it is a professional and personal biography-intertwining personal letters with sculpture commissions.

Taft returned to Illinois in 1886, after spending several years studying at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris. His early years in Chicago were spent lecturing at the Art Institute and sculpting busts and Civil War monuments. The 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition shaped Taft’s view of public art (p. 68) and provided him the opportunity to work on a larger scale. In 1906, Taft opened his Midway Studios on the campus of the University of Chicago. 

Taft planned to develop a sculpture park where the Midway was during the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition. In 1912, Taft received a commission from the Art Institute for the Fountain of Time (based on the first lines of Dobson’s poem Paradox of Time): a look at how time stands still and our lives move past it.  The sculpture includes 80 figures (plus the figure of Time); it is 120 feet long, 18 feet wide, and 14 feet wide. Taft originally wanted it cast in marble, but choose concrete because of the size. Dedicated in 1922, the Fountain of Time is the only completed part of the planned sculpture park.

While Lorado Taft would be classified as an academic book, it is written in a way that anyone can read. Chapters are spent on Taft’s work with his students and the breadth of writing he completed, in addition to a chronological look at his time in Chicago. The author sometimes presents an artistic critique and look at Taft’s development as an artist. One of the aspects of the book I really liked, was the encouragement for the reader to look up any images mentioned that weren’t included in the book. I found myself doing this quite frequently, to help supplement what I was learning. The book does include many images that provide a look into Taft’s studio, sculpture at various levels of completion, and the people he interacted with.

The Place
Lorado Taft’s Fountain of Time is located in Washington Park, not too far from the University of Chicago’s campus. The sculpture sits at the end of a long road and seems to draw your attention from whatever angle you approach. The sculpture is 360 degrees, so visitors have the opportunity to walk completely around it. It is an interesting experience to contemplate the first line of Dobson’s poem, while viewing the people passing before Time. Unfortunately, the fountain is no longer operating, but this does not take away from the impact of the sculpture.

The purpose for our visit to Washington Park was to see the Fountain of Time. The park is open all day, every day and has ample street parking. Visitors can find a variety of indoor and outdoor activities, as well as special events.