A Walk into Salem’s History

“it’s easy to turn back the clock, to step back to a day when Salem mariners sailed to the West Indies or to the farthest parts in the world” (16).

The Book

Salem’s 400 years of history covers everything from maritime trade, to architecture, to literature, to witches. While the Salem Witch Trials often receive the most attention, they are not the sole definer of Salem. Author Jeanne Stella uses a written walking tour to provide the reader insight into the many faceted history of Salem. 

Historic Streets of Salem, Massachusetts begins with a brief overview of Salem’s history. The first Englishmen to arrive, in 1626, were fishermen. Fishing quickly became the main industry, eventually leading to ship building and maritime trade. In 1629, the area became known as “Salem”, taken from the Hebrew word “shalom” (which means “peace”). Significant events (Salem Witch Trials) and residents (Nathaniel Hawthorne) are mentioned to help set the stage. The rest of the book is organized into six sections that cover groupings of Salem’s streets: Downtown, Maritime, Salem Common, McIntire District, North Salem, South Salem, and topical.

Throughout each group of streets, Stella highlights points of interest, trade, events, and people (both famous and ordinary). Derby Square, in downtown Salem, is named for Elias Hasket Derby. He was a wealthy merchant whose mansion once stood here. Today, the area includes shops, Old Town Hall, and an outdoor market. The Maritime section once bustled with shipbuilders and shipping merchants; “Salem wharves were lined with ships which Salem merchants had built and manned and sent to every market in the world” (95). The Salem Common, now mostly a residential neighborhood, was where the Sons of Liberty tarred and feathered informants during the American Revolution. The McIntire District is full of opulent and stately homes, reflecting the wealth of Salem and the federal style architecture of Samuel McIntire.

As you read Historic Streets of Salem, Massachusetts, you definitely feel like you are taking a walking tour of Salem. Streets are the main characters, not their occupants. The chapters are about two pages long and are conversational in tone, mimicking a tour guide. Almost every chapter includes photos, paintings, maps, or drawings. The one illustration missing was a map of the entire city, to help the reader see the places in relation to one another. While you do learn quite a bit, I found myself wishing for more detail in some places, especially when Stella would begin a story but fail to finish it.

The Place

When I visited Salem, my family and I took the History and Hauntings of Salem tour with Witch City Walking Tours. All of us were very impressed with our tour guide, Rebecca, and truly appreciated how she narrated 400 years of Salem history. The tour took us through Derby Square, past the Bewitched statue and Witch House, into the McIntire District, and ended at the Charter Street Cemetery. At each point on the tour, our guide provided historical context to help us understand the events that took place and little tidbits to bring history to life. The tour is just over two hours long and quickly sells out, so make sure to book your tickets well in advance.

After visiting Salem, I came away with an appreciation for this unique city. Its downtown area is bustling with tourists and locals. Here you will find all sorts of restaurants (check out the Boston Burger Company) and shops that capitalize on Salem’s witch past. The Charter Street Cemetery and the design of the Salem Witch Trials Memorial provide an opportunity to reflect on the witch hysteria and aftermath. In contrast, the McIntire and Maritime districts hearken back to Salem’s seafaring past. The sights and sounds are more tranquil than downtown, reminding the visitor that there is more to Salem than meets the eye.