“The city itself would be the American Paris, but better
than Paris-a Paris reborn as a republican Rome, a seat of wisdom and power on
display for the rest of the world” (14).
The Book

In
Grand Avenues: The
Story of the French Visionary Who Designed Washington, DC, author Scott W.
Berg introduces the reader to Pierre
(later changed to Peter) Charles L’Enfant. L’Enfant was born outside Paris and educated at the Royal Academy of Painting and
Sculpture before sailing to America
to fight in the American Revolution. After the Revolution, America became
L’Enfant’s adopted country. He redesigned the temporary seat of
government-Federal Hall in New York,
before taking on the task of a permanent seat of government.
Berg walks the reader through the decision process regarding
a permanent location for the young nation’s capitol. In July of 1790 one
hundred square miles on the Potomac River were
set aside. L’Enfant surveyed the land while he began to design the layout of
the city. His plan was basically “a grid overlaid with a system of public
squares linked by radiating diagonal avenues” (102). Berg unpacks the thought
and effort L’Enfant put into his plan for Washington,
DC. For example, in Versailles, the center
was the king’s bedroom. In Washington,
the center was the Capitol Building.
The design and building process was not easy. L’Enfant could
be a difficult person to work with and often found himself at odds with the
commissioners, surveyors, and even Thomas Jefferson. He resigned from the
project in 1792. Berg transports the reader to the year 1900 when L’Enfant’s
design was finally realized by a team of American architects. This focus on the
city plan, as a whole, came after 100 years of focus on the White House and Capitol Building.
The Place

The Capitol
Building was the center
of L’Enfant’s plan for the new democracy. The diagonal streets would shoot out
like wheels on a spoke and the four grids (Northeast, Northwest, Southeast, and
Southwest) would come together. The view from the Capitol
Building would be of the mighty Potomac River.
Today, the Capitol Building is roughly the center of Washington, DC.
There is a star drawn onto the floor that shows the center of the city. Close
by the star is a scale model of the city; L’Enfant’s plan is evident from this
bird’s eye view. You can no longer see the Potomac because of an expansion of
the Potomac and the Washington
monument. But, there is still a lot to experience within the Capitol grounds. Visitors
must have a pass for a tour of the Capitol; tickets can be obtained through
your US
Representative or Senator. Included in the tour are Statutory Hall where many
states are represented by historic figures, the Rotunda with paintings of
significant moments in American history, and the old Supreme Court. An additional
pass is needed to sit in the gallery of the House of Representatives or the
Senate. I highly recommend including this in your visit, it is a rare chance to
see the legislative process in person.