Kaskaskia

“[Starved Rock] is not less than two hundred and fifty feet high, perpendicular on three sides, and washed at its base by the river […] the effect upon the observer is striking and imposing” (152).

The Book

Many Illinois residents are familiar with the tale of how Starved Rock got its name: One Native American tribe laid siege to another Native American tribe seeking shelter at the top. However, The History of Starved Rock by Mark Walczynski is quick to point out that this tale has no grounding in history.

The Illinois were the original inhabitants of the land in what would eventually become the north central area of the state of Illinois. During the spring and summer, they would live together, farming and hunting; and during the fall and winter, they would split into smaller camps. In 1673, they had their first encounter with Europeans. Jesuit priest Marquette started a mission after leaving Frenchmen Jolliet’s expedition from Canada. A few years later, French explorer LaSalle visited and recognized the defensive benefits of Starved Rock. He established an alliance with the Illinois, including trade, for the next twenty years. In 1690, the once lush natural resources were depleted and both the French and Illinois abandon the area. 

The eighteenth century was marked by turmoil as two wars were waged. The first, the Fox Wars, pitted the French and their Native American allies against the Mesquakie tribe. At least one of the skirmishes was at Starved Rock. The second was the French and Indian War which resulted in the transfer of Starved Rock into British hands and eventually American hands. Starved Rock in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries saw quite a lot of change, as American settlers moved into the area. The Black Hawk War (1832) was the last attempt by Native Americans to protect their land; it was unsuccessful and they agreed to resettle west of the Mississippi River. Sixty years later, with the invention of the automobile and creation of highways, Starved Rock become a popular tourist destination. Amidst growing concern that the natural resources would be exploited in private hands, the state of Illinois purchased the land in 1911. Today, over 2 million visitors explore the park every year and there is still the challenge to preserve the park’s ecosystem. 

The History of Starved Rock presents two lesser-known aspects of Illinois history: the Native Americans and the French. As a reader, I appreciated the detail and research that Walczynski put into the book, enabling me to learn more about this part of history. The narrative flows well and the reader can feel like they are on an in-depth tour. One unique aspect of the book is that each chapter has both an English title and a Native American title. Throughout the book, there are black and white photos of the area and items at the Starved Rock Visitor Center. When the topography and geography descriptions get detailed, these are helpful to refer back to.

The Place

Since it’s opening in 1912, Starved Rock State Park has been a popular destination for both Illinois residents and out of state guests. Visitors come for a variety of reasons: Illinois history, Native American history, geology, and breathtaking nature views. My first visit was in eighth grade, to learn more about Illinois history and geology. We visited in the fall and had the opportunity to hike to the top of Starved Rock and learn about the Starved Rock Lock and Dam on the Illinois River. 

Starved Rock State Park is open 7am to dusk; there is no entry or parking fees. Depending on the weather and season, visitors can hike, picnic, fish, boat, or stay in the lodge or cabins.  The Visitor Center is open daily, with reduced hours during the winter months, and provides insights into the land, inhabitants, and wildlife. The park hosts events throughout the year including night hikes, eagle observations, and fall color tours. A questions and answers booklet, written by the Starved Rock Lodge, provides additional information.

Hawthorne’s Muse

“Half-way down a by-street of one of our New England towns, stands a rusty wooden house with seven acutely peaked gables facing towards various points of the compass, and a huge, clustered chimney in the midst” (6).

The Book

In his preface, author Nathaniel Hawthorne calls The House of the Seven Gables a “romance”. There is love of power, love of land, and love of money. It is not until the end that the reader encounters a taste for what we would typically call “romance”. Woven throughout these “loves” are themes focused on guilt, sins of forefathers, fear, and a touch of joy. 

Hawthorne begins the story in the past. His third-person omniscient narrator explains how the Pyncheon family came to own the land where the House of the Seven Gables stands. It was by nefarious means, during the witch hysteria, resulting in a curse on Pyncheon descendants. The current resident of the house is Hepzibah, an old maid who has lived in seclusion for over 25 years. She leases a few rooms to a young man, Holgrave, who mostly keeps to himself. Facing poverty, Hepzibah is forced to open a cent shop on the first floor. The narrator paints a pitiful portrait of a women anxious about failure and interacting with her neighbors. It is not long after the cent shop opens that two more people take up residence: Phoebe Pyncheon, a young cousin from the country, and Clifford Pyncheon, Hepzibah’s brother who seems to have experienced something traumatic. The three Pyncheons fall into a comfortable routine, with Phoebe bringing joy and light back into the house. 

This comfortable routine is rocked when Phoebe returns home for a brief stay and Judge Pyncheon, another cousin, demands to see Clifford. Hepzibah is desperate to protect her brother and the reader is left suspecting something sinister is going on. Hepzibah only relents when Clifford agrees to see the Judge. To avoid giving any more away, I will leave my readers in suspense with this statement: it was hard to stop reading chapters 15 through 21. 

The House of the Seven Gables was an engaging read. The narrator has a sense of humor, commenting on their own abilities and what the characters do. The book doesn’t have much dialogue; instead, the narrator spends a lot of time describing the mundane every day, character personalities, and reactions of characters. This helps the reader feel like they are a part of the story, present in the House of the Seven Gables, and invested in what happens to Hepzibah, Phoebe, and Clifford. I enjoyed the ability to picture what I was reading, both from the narrator’s descriptions and my tour of the actual house. Without giving the ending away, I will say that you will be satisfied with how Hawthorne wraps up his tale of The House of the Seven Gables.

The Place

The House of the Seven Gables is about a 15-minute walk from the center of Salem. It stands on the banks of the Salem Harbor, with views of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. Visitors are able to wander the grounds behind the house and step into the birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne (the building was moved here in 1958). We visited in mid-April and I can only imagine how beautiful the grounds would be when the spring flowers are in full bloom or the fall colors are out in force. While we were able to walk up and purchase tickets, this may not be possible during busier times. 

Visitors have two options when purchasing tickets: the Mansion Tour Experience (which includes a Grounds Pass) or a Grounds Pass. I would recommend the Mansion Tour Experience; after all, the reason why this is a tourist locale is the House of the Seven Gables. You are free to roam the grounds at your own pace, but the Mansion Tours have set times. I had not read The House of the Seven Gables or seen the movie prior to visiting. The tour guide did refer to some characters on the tour, without explaining the plot, but it did not detract from my experience. My favorite part of the tour was walking up a narrow and steep staircase to stand beneath the gables. It was here that our tour guide showed how the house was built with a small model.

A Buckeye in the White House

“I never saw anything finer than old Spiegel is now in her fall dress and colors […]. The dark red or maroon of the great white oaks, in contrast with the lighter colors of maples and hickories, make a picture of wonderful beauty” (Rutherford B. Hayes, 511).

The Book

Author Ari Hoogenboom bookends his biography of Rutherford B. Hayes with a call to place him in the proper perspective and to avoid divorcing his presidency from the context of the time. These editorials notes are what make reading Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President an interesting and educational experience.

Rutherford Birchard Hayes was born in 1822, two and a half months after his father died, in Delaware, OH. His early life was marked by health difficulties and a close relationship with his mother, older sister, and mother’s brother (Uncle Sardis). The influence of these three molded him into a public leader who was confident, virtuous, patriotic, and ambitious. Hayes’s education included a local school, two prep schools, Kenyon College, and Harvard Law School. Upon graduation, he moved to Cincinnati where he was a criminal defense lawyer. After several years as a traveling bachelor, Hayes married Lucy Webb in 1852. Their marriage was strong and loving, despite years of separation during the Civil War and the deaths of several young children.

Hayes was an early volunteer, enlisting in June 1861 as an officer in the 23rd regiment of Ohio Volunteers, to join the fight against slavery. During his four years, Hayes was wounded five times and had four horses shot out from under him. At the close of the Civil War, his focus shifted to politics. After a brief stint as a congressman, Hayes was elected to three terms as Ohio governor. As governor, he championed suffrage, civil service reform, prison reform, and desegregation. In 1876, Hayes was nominated as the compromise presidential candidate for the Republican party.

The Hayes presidency focused on the same initiatives the Hayes governorship did. For the protection of the rights of blacks in the south and civil service reform, Hayes was often at odds with both sides of the political aisle and could be naïve in his belief that people would always be fair and just. Pledging to only serve one term, he navigated opposition, worked to unify the Republican party, and strategically used the veto, helping to reestablish presidential power. Post-presidency, Hayes didn’t give up on his causes: universal education, civil service reform, and prison reform. When he wasn’t traveling for them, he was enjoying life at Spiegel Grove, where he loved the double veranda and entertaining family and friends. He passed away in 1893, four years after Lucy.

Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President is a formidable book to read (over 500 pages!). The amount of detail can be a bit overwhelming at times, but if a reader makes it to the end, they have a clearer sense of who Hayes was. Some readers may want to pick and choose chapters, depending on what interests them the most. The details do frequently contain fun anecdotes that bring the people to life. Hoogenboom liberally quotes letters to and from Hayes that add different insights and voices to the narrative. This allows the reader to observe Hayes’s political beliefs develop over time, from his own writings and thinking and the influence of family and friends. One of the most interesting sections, to me, was Hayes’s life after the presidency. Here, I did appreciate the detail as I learned about his active civic engagement at the local, state, and national levels.

The Place

The Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Library and Museums at Spiegel Grove is home to the first presidential library open to the public. It stands as a testament to Hayes’s commitment to civil and community service.

Out of all the presidential libraries and museums I have visited, this was one of my favorites. The wooded grounds are just big enough to transport visitors back in time, imagining what it was like when the Hayes family lived at Spiegel Grove. The museum begins with a detailed narrative and interesting artifacts from the political life of Hayes, helping the visitor understand the context of his decisions. Working backwards, the museum highlights important parts from Hayes’s early life and his service during the Civil War. The original museum building serves as a monument to Hayes and his collection of president signatures, a practice continued by the museum staff today. The home tour allows visitors to step into the personal life of Hayes, learning how important family was despite frequent separations. The whole family hardly ever lived at Spiegel Grove together, but their imprints are there.

The museum and library are open April to December, with limited hours in the winter months. Tours are required for the Hayes home, while the museum is self-guided. Tickets can be purchased online or at the museum. I would recommend planning for several hours, depending on interest, in order to see everything: the museum, home, graveyard, and the grove.

Colorado Castle

“Palmer’s new estate was difficult for eastern and midwestern folk to comprehend in one or two visits: a stately, fashionable Camelot amid the crags of the Rockies” (141).

The Book

A Kingdom of Their Own: The Story of the Palmers of Glen Eyrie by Stephen J. May introduces readers to the founder of Colorado Springs, Colorado, a man marked by his experiences and love for the outdoors. Not to be overlooked, the book also highlights his family and the home they built in the midst of the Rockies. 

Two experiences were particularly impactful for William Palmer: his service fighting for the Union in the Civil War and his career in the railroad industry. As a member of the abolitionist movement, Palmer was quick to organize a calvary troop. His skills were recognized by leadership who promoted him to brevet brigadier general at 28. For the rest of his life, he was known as General Palmer. In 1867, Palmer was hired by the Kansas Pacific Railroad to survey the best route from Kansas to the Pacific. While in Colorado, Palmer became enchanted with the land at the base of Pikes Peak and dreamed of building a town and home there. After buying the land, he created his own railroad (from Denver to Pueblo) and the town of Colorado Springs began to grow. 

Palmer had to work hard to convince his new wife, Queen, of the benefits of living in Colorado Springs. She was from New York City, well-educated, and enjoyed the benefits of living close to society and cultural affairs. Part of the convincing involved the promise of a stately home, fit for an English lord. She lived in a modest home, built in 1872, but didn’t live to see the completed Glen Eyrie Castle. In 1903, the home was enlarged to 65 rooms and included all the modern conveniences. The grounds were left as natural as possible, with numerous riding and hiking trails through the mountains. It was on one of those trails that a horse threw Palmer in 1906. Until his death three years later, Palmer was paralyzed from the waist down, limiting his ability to enjoy the outdoors. 

Glen Eyrie, a somewhat silent character in the book, passed between a few owners who used it sporadically. The Navigators, a Christian ministry, purchased the grounds and buildings in 1953. Today, the organization uses it has its headquarters and for training, a conference center, the community, and conservation. 

One of the aspects of this book that I really appreciated was the descriptions of frontier life, for a newly founded town, and the railroad survey work. May doesn’t go into extreme detail, but it is enough to draw the reader in (especially one who may not be as familiar with these topics). The narrative is supplemented by excerpts from letters by Palmer, Queen, and their oldest daughter, as well as contemporaries and family members. You get a sense of how much Palmer loved Colorado Springs and how torn Queen was with their separation. It would have been nice to include more about Glen Eyrie itself. For such an imposing building, it feels like too minor of a character in the narrative.

The Place

Over a hundred years after the Palmer family finished Glen Eyrie, visitors are still treated to tours of the estate and grounds. On the tour, you will learn about the Palmer family, the founding of Colorado Springs, and the ministry of the Navigators. We visited during the week in March, when it wasn’t too crowded. 

Tours are offered twice a day and are $12 per person. Most of the tour takes place indoors, but true to Palmer’s love for the outdoors, the tour does include some of the grounds. A separate geological walking tour is also available, but only during the summer months. Unlike many other historic homes, Glen Eyrie provides the opportunity to spend the night. Most rooms come with breathtaking views of the rock formations on the grounds.

Railroad to Freedom

“There would be hundreds of men and women, white and black, who saw the succor of fugitives as a personal mission, and their homes as oases of hope for the desperate” (132).

The Book

In Bound for Canaan: The Underground Railroad and the War for the Soul of America, author Fergus M. Bordewich argues that the story of the Underground Railroad is far more significant that it is given credit. It is not just a piece of American history, but also the first integrated civil rights movement, democracy in action, and civil disobedience on a large scale.

Bordewich divides the story into four parts, tracing the development of the Underground Railroad from the first arrival of slaves in the United States to John Brown’s raid on Harper’s Ferry. Readers are introduced to the people who were impacted by and a part of the Underground Railroad. Their stories, just some of many, are interwoven throughout the book, often relying on their own accounts:

• Josiah Henson, a slave who escapes and becomes an Underground Railroad conductor
• Isaac Hooper, a Quaker who was a friend to free and runaway slaves
• Levi and Vestal Coffin, Quakers who are considered the founders of the Underground Railroad
• Frederick Bailey (later Douglass), escaped slave and well-known orator
• John Rankin, nationally known abolitionist whose home in Ripley, OH was a beacon to runaways
• Henry Brown, a slave who escaped Virginia in a box that was shipped to Philadelphia
• Harriet Tubman, escaped slave and the only women conductor of the Underground Railroad
• William Still, born free and leader of the Anti-Slavery Office in Philadelphia
  
• Henry Bibb, the first black journalist who escaped from multiple slave owners

Throughout the book, Bordewich draws in the political and cultural contexts to remind the reader what was happening, for these had a direct impact on the workings of the Underground Railroad. He writes in a way that draws the reader into the experiences of the people involved and provides the right amount of detail. No two escapes were the same and often required an element of creativity and daring. A section of photos in the middle includes drawings or photos of the people and places involved in the Underground Railroad. The story of the Underground Railroad is one of individuals and families who were willing to risk everything for freedom and to break laws that “they believed to be sinful but impossible to change by political means” (196).

The Place

The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is located in Cincinnati, on the banks of the Ohio River. This location is intentional, reminding visitors that slaves had to cross the Ohio River to escape. A mix of permanent, traveling, and video exhibits teach visitors the history of slavery in the Americas, the courage needed to flee slavery and help those fleeing, and the realities of modern-day slavery and human trafficking. Throughout the museum, visitors are introduced to key members of the Underground Railroad. Many of them are mentioned in Bound for Canaan, which is an ideal companion to the museum. It goes into greater detail than a museum can, due to limited space.

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10am to 5pm (with the last entry at 4:30pm). Tickets can be purchased online ahead of time or at the museum. On the first Saturday of the month, guided tours are offered and advanced registration is recommended. Garage and street parking are available; just be aware that the museum is next to the Cincinnati Reds and Bengals stadiums. Parking may be more difficult to find on game days.

An American Venture in Higher Education

“What began as a humble and inchoate project for a frontier college in the 1850s evolved into a noble and sustainable ideal, grounded in the firm support of social elites of Chicago who believed that higher education was both a public and social good and an emblem of civic prestige” (64).

The Book

Despite a rocky start and various difficulties throughout the years, the University of Chicago emerged as a significant institution in Chicago and higher education. The University of Chicago: A History by John W. Boyer recounts the history of the institution and the influence of key leaders. 

There were actually two Universities of Chicago. The first was founded in 1856 by Stephen Douglas, with Baptists, to educate in classics, grammar, science, and agriculture. It got off to a rocky financial start and its location was isolated from downtown Chicago. Enrollment declined as Chicago boomed and the university closed in 1886. In spite of the poor reputation of the first university, several Chicago leaders were able to persuade John D. Rockefeller (one of the wealthiest Baptists in the US) to pledge $600,000 for the second university. In 1889, Marshall Field donated land in Hyde Park and the second University of Chicago was chartered in 1890. 

The first president of the second university, William Harper, revolutionized the structure of instruction (the quarter system and majors and minors), developed a relationship with the community, and raised standards for undergraduate students to make sure more would continue in graduate studies. His vision was often in tension with the board and Rockefeller, especially when it came to funding. In the 1920s, work was done to develop more rigorous faculty research and move away from financial dependency on the Rockefellers. The mid-twentieth century found the University of Chicago in financial and enrollment trouble, just as its relations with Chicago and the neighborhood deteriorated. Since then, the university has worked to improve neighborhood amenities and work with the residents. 

The University of Chicago: A History is a very detailed history of the two universities. It is written more for an academic audience and is hard to read straight through. Many readers may find one or two chapters the most interesting, or choose to skip over some parts. Most chapters include information regarding various people (particularly each president), faculty tensions, curriculum, financial difficulties, and student life. The narrative is driven by the initiatives of each of the presidents, some of whom were able to accomplish more than others. In a few places, quotes from the student newspaper were included; I would have liked to have seen more of those, since they add a different perspective to the history.

The Place

Visitors to the University of Chicago, who aren’t prospective students, are able to walk around the campus. It is nestled in the historic Hyde Park neighborhood, surrounded by large trees and various architectural styles. To me, the highlight of the campus is the Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures. This museum focuses on ancient civilizations in the Middle East, or the Fertile Crescent. It is incredible to see artifacts from ancient Babylon, Egypt, and Persia (to name a few). Personally, I enjoyed seeing items that hearkened back to lessons in both history classes and Sunday School: mosaics from the gates of Babylon, tools used to build the pyramids, and wall reliefs from Assyrian throne rooms. 

The Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures is open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4pm, with extended hours on Fridays. No registration is required for individuals or small groups and there is a suggested admission fee. Depending on your interest level, plan for at least a half a day to walk through the various galleries. I have visited on a Saturday and weekday in the summer, both times the campus was not as crowded with students. We also walked around campus and visited Washington Park to see Lorado Taft’s Fountain of Time sculpture.

Two Boys from Dayton

 “…the distinctive popping, cluttering, flapping sound of engine and propellers drifted over from the Huffman pasture. The Wright boys were at it again” (289).

The Book

The Bishop’s Boys: A Life of Wilbur and Orville Wright by Tom Crouch is an in-depth look at the two men who succeeded where everyone else failed, inventing heavier than air powered flight. Wilbur and Orville were determined and meticulous. Their differences complemented each other, while their ability to argue through a problem spurred them to new ideas.

Crouch divides the book into three sections: Family, Wings, and World. “Family” lays the ground work for the following sections by exploring the lives and influence of the Wright Brothers’ parents, Milton and Susan, the experiences that shaped the brothers, and their early careers in printing and bicycles. “Wings” focuses on the early experiments of the brothers, from the late 1890s to 1904. Often bored, the brothers would look for another project. Wilbur became interested in flight first, with Orville joining later. Here is where their differences begin to complement each other: Wilbur was interested in the big picture and Orville in making the big picture work. Unlike all others pursuing flight, Wilbur believed the pilot needed complete control of all axes of flight – just like on a bicycle. This belief impacted the design of all their gliders and flyers.

After spending several years traveling to Kitty Hawk, NC, and realizing that this was no longer a hobby, the brothers searched for an alternative closer to home. In Spring 1904, they chose Huffman Prairie for its isolation (eight miles from Dayton) and location on the interurban line (a form of public transit). The 1904 machine struggled due to poor flying weather and mechanical problems. But, once the brothers built a catapult to launch the flyer, the take-offs were less risky and flights more successful. “World” begins with the success of the 1905 Wright Flyer III at Huffman Prairie. Throughout the Fall, their flights are increasingly longer, they demonstrate complete control over the machine, and attract spectators. Not long after, the brothers stopped flying to focus on obtaining a patent and contracts to sell the plane. The bulk of the section details the ups and downs of negotiating with the US and European governments, creation of the Wright Company, and maintaining their status as the first in flight. The brothers are often labeled as fakes due to their insistence on secrecy (all to protect their design). When Wilbur passes away in 1912, at the age of 45, Orville lost interest in the company. He sold it and walked away, preferring to tinker in his Dayton laboratory for the rest of his life.

Crouch writes in an engaging way, describing the technical details and experiments that are easy to understand and visualize. In some cases, the narrative slows to a play by play. Here, the reader can almost imagine what it would have been like to fly for the first time or watch a man fly for the first time. Crouch relies heavily on long passages from family letters to provide details and character insight, helping the reader visualize who Wilbur and Orville were. I particularly liked the chapters in the “Wings” section that explored Wilbur’s early thoughts about flight and where to experiment. There are a handful of black and white photos interspersed in the chapters; it would have been nice to have a few more of them. There were two areas where I think opportunities were missed. One was the too brief mention of the Wright Brothers Home Days Celebration in Dayton and the other was too much time spent on biographies of other individuals.

The Place

The Huffman Prairie Interpretive Center sits high above the Huffman Prairie Flying Field, where the Wright Brothers flew the world’s first practical airplane in 1905. On a clear day, it’s easy to imagine the Wright Flyer III soaring over the trees and circling the prairie. There may be some other curious people there and you strike up a conversation about a sight you have never seen before or thought was even possible!

I recommend that visitors start at the museum. It focuses on the Wright Brothers time at Huffman Prairie: developing and testing the Flyers and the flying school they started in 1910. There is very little overlap between this museum and the other sites in Dayton. Just outside is a memorial, dedicated in 1940. Once you complete your time in the museum, you can drive down to the flying field. A replica barn and catapult sit in the field, similar to the ones the Wright Brothers would have used, and interpretive signs are scattered around the field.

The Center is located on a public section of the Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. The Air Force has preserved the Flying Field and the National Park Service runs the museum. It can be a bit difficult to find, but isn’t far from the National Museum of the United States Air Force. It won’t take visitors long to explore the museum or view the flying field and admission is free.