Waikiki was “one of those interesting landscapes which the eye of a meditative mind could long contemplate with new felt pleasure and move slowly over without wishing to quit its various and picturesque beauties” (83-84).
The Book
One of the most recognizable beaches in the world, Waikiki, also has a unique place in Hawaiian history and culture. Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story, by George S. Kanahele, relies on oral histories, historical sources, and natural and scientific evidence to recreate the people, place, and culture for the reader.The first Polynesians arrived on the island of Oahu roughly
1800 years ago. They first landed at what is now Bellows Field, on the eastern
side of the island, eventually making their way to Waikiki (Hawaiian for “water
spouting”). These early settlers were self-sustaining family units who fished
and farmed taro (a root vegetable). Author Kanahele recreates community life
based on what is known about Hawaiian culture: the labor-intensive taro
farming, the use of plants to create tools and clothing, and the integral role
the gods played in daily life. Once the population grew, the need for chiefs
arose. The chiefs loomed large over the history and culture of Hawaii,
eventually leading to the royal lineage.
In 1400, King Maʻilikūkahi moved his capitol
to Waikiki. He divided the land of Oahu into districts and had it surveyed. The
region prospered under him and he was respected by all his subjects. The next
400 years were marked by both effective and ineffective chiefs. In 1795, the
battle of Nuʻuanu unified
the Hawaiian Islands under King Kamehameha I, who built his capitol and
residence in Waikiki. Just one year later, Kona and Lahaina joined Waikiki as
the shared capitols of the kingdom. The capitol permanently moved to Honolulu
in 1809, because its harbor could better accommodate ships of all sizes.
The population of Waikiki quickly declined, due
to wars among the people, disease brought by Europeans, and the loss of capitol
city status, and the taro fields and buildings fell into disrepair. Waikiki
soon was seen as a traditional rural community, compared to the city of
Honolulu. However, by the 1860s, an improved road in between the cities
elevated Waikiki to a seaside resort. The first primitive bathhouse opened in
1881 and the first beachside hotel in 1888, the start of commercial
hospitality.
Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story balances legends, natural science, cultural practices, and history to create an engaging narrative. The chapters begin with an introductory paragraph and are divided into short, topical sections. Black and white photos and maps are interspersed throughout. While helpful, they are often not related to the chapter they are located in. Kanahele goes into more detail for some components, like taro farming, to provide more context to the reader. In some respects, Waikiki feels more like a book about Oahu or Hawaiian culture and how that impacts Waikiki.
The Place
Today, Waikiki is very different from the community of taro farmers and fishermen and it’s come a long way since the first primitive bathhouse opened. Hotels, restaurants, and shops line the shore and the beaches are crowded with vacationers. When my family visited, we only had a few minutes to walk along the sand and take in the views of Diamond Head and the Pacific Ocean. We were on Fort DeRussy Beach, which is under the jurisdiction of the US Army. The beach and park are open to the public. Towards the edge of the park is a pier that juts out into the Pacific Ocean; it provides great views of Waikiki at the end.