Dayton’s Classified Nuclear Past

“The work in Dayton was so essential to the success of the bomb project and so deeply hidden within the already-secure Manhattan Project…” (60).

The Book

When most people hear about the development of the atomic bomb, their first thought is not Dayton, Ohio. Author Linda Carrick Thomas sets out to change that in Polonium in the Playhouse: The Manhattan Project’s Secret Chemistry Work in Dayton, Ohio. That secret work, to produce refined polonium for the nuclear bomb trigger mechanism, still remains the most classified aspect of the Manhattan Project today.

The first atomic bomb was dropped on August 6, 1945. Only seven years earlier evidence of nuclear fission was found in uranium, making atomic weapons possible; and, four years earlier British scientists announced that an atomic bomb could be ready in two years. These two events accelerated the work of US scientists and military personnel in atomic weapons. The Manhattan Project was created in the summer of 1942 and housed in the Army, to ensure total secrecy. There were several locations throughout the country that were compartmentalized to help protect the work from any leaks.

Dayton was home to several locations, beginning in the spring of 1943. The Dayton Project operated in the Monsanto laboratory, leased space from the Dayton Board of Education, and converted the Talbott family’s private hall. The latter two were located in the heart of neighborhoods. Twenty-four-hour guards kept an eye on the work, as trucks with radioactive material drove in and out of the facilities. The chemists in Dayton purified polonium for the plutonium implosion bomb, with the first shipment for purification arriving in April 1945. Three months later, there was enough purified to test the first atomic bomb in New Mexico. Just two weeks after that, the parts for the plutonium bomb (Fat Man) arrived in the Pacific and it was dropped on Nagasaki August 9. It isn’t until then that the Dayton Project workers finally learned what they had been working on.

After World War II, nuclear research transitioned to universities and national laboratories. A new facility was built in Miamisburg, Ohio to continue the polonium work until it was decommissioned in 1993. Parts of the Dayton Project were declassified in 1983 and the late 1990s. As of the writing of this book, 2017, some is still classified.

Polonium in the Playhouse is a compact book that introduces the reader to many different parts of the story: the Manhattan Project, the Dayton Project, chemistry and nuclear research, and key individuals. For the most part, the chapters move quickly and the science is easy to follow. Thomas situates the Dayton Project within the greater Manhattan Project, explains the methods for recovering polonium from lead dioxide, and describes the polonium purification process. I found it helpful to read the first appendix, a science primer, before the narrative dives into the development of the bomb (in between chapters two and three). Black and white photos, charts, and drawings—directly related to the surrounding text—help readers visualize the people and science.

The Place

The Mound Cold War Discovery Center could be easily missed. It’s 20 minutes south of Dayton and in an unassuming office building. Across the street is the Miamisburg Mound, a prehistoric burial site that commands your attention more than the Discovery Center. However, once inside, visitors quickly learn how significant this site was to the ending of World War II. When I went with my dad—a former chemist and employee for a nuclear energy company—we spent quite a bit of time there. The accessible hands-on exhibits and artifacts helped to tell the story that began with racing to develop an atomic bomb and ended with satellite communications. I particularly enjoyed the Geiger counter that demonstrates how radiation protection works.

The Discovery Center is open Wednesday-Saturday from 10am to 4pm; admission and parking are free. It is self-guided, but group tours can be arranged. Depending on your interest level, you could spend less than an hour or over an hour there. The Mound Cold War Discovery Center is worth the drive, for it is just another reminder about the role Dayton has played in historic events throughout the years.

“Water Spouting”

Waikiki was “one of those interesting landscapes which the eye of a meditative mind could long contemplate with new felt pleasure and move slowly over without wishing to quit its various and picturesque beauties” (83-84).

The Book

One of the most recognizable beaches in the world, Waikiki, also has a unique place in Hawaiian history and culture. Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story, by George S. Kanahele, relies on oral histories, historical sources, and natural and scientific evidence to recreate the people, place, and culture for the reader.

The first Polynesians arrived on the island of Oahu roughly 1800 years ago. They first landed at what is now Bellows Field, on the eastern side of the island, eventually making their way to Waikiki (Hawaiian for “water spouting”). These early settlers were self-sustaining family units who fished and farmed taro (a root vegetable). Author Kanahele recreates community life based on what is known about Hawaiian culture: the labor-intensive taro farming, the use of plants to create tools and clothing, and the integral role the gods played in daily life. Once the population grew, the need for chiefs arose. The chiefs loomed large over the history and culture of Hawaii, eventually leading to the royal lineage.

In 1400, King Maʻilikūkahi moved his capitol to Waikiki. He divided the land of Oahu into districts and had it surveyed. The region prospered under him and he was respected by all his subjects. The next 400 years were marked by both effective and ineffective chiefs. In 1795, the battle of Nuʻuanu unified the Hawaiian Islands under King Kamehameha I, who built his capitol and residence in Waikiki. Just one year later, Kona and Lahaina joined Waikiki as the shared capitols of the kingdom. The capitol permanently moved to Honolulu in 1809, because its harbor could better accommodate ships of all sizes.

The population of Waikiki quickly declined, due to wars among the people, disease brought by Europeans, and the loss of capitol city status, and the taro fields and buildings fell into disrepair. Waikiki soon was seen as a traditional rural community, compared to the city of Honolulu. However, by the 1860s, an improved road in between the cities elevated Waikiki to a seaside resort. The first primitive bathhouse opened in 1881 and the first beachside hotel in 1888, the start of commercial hospitality.

Waikiki: 100 BC to 1900 AD – An Untold Story balances legends, natural science, cultural practices, and history to create an engaging narrative. The chapters begin with an introductory paragraph and are divided into short, topical sections. Black and white photos and maps are interspersed throughout. While helpful, they are often not related to the chapter they are located in. Kanahele goes into more detail for some components, like taro farming, to provide more context to the reader. In some respects, Waikiki feels more like a book about Oahu or Hawaiian culture and how that impacts Waikiki.

The Place

Today, Waikiki is very different from the community of taro farmers and fishermen and it’s come a long way since the first primitive bathhouse opened. Hotels, restaurants, and shops line the shore and the beaches are crowded with vacationers.

When my family visited, we only had a few minutes to walk along the sand and take in the views of Diamond Head and the Pacific Ocean. We were on Fort DeRussy Beach, which is under the jurisdiction of the US Army. The beach and park are open to the public. Towards the edge of the park is a pier that juts out into the Pacific Ocean; it provides great views of Waikiki at the end.

*For additional locations see these blog posts:

    Island Fortress (Dec. 5, 2023)

    V-J Day (Aug. 17, 2021)

    Mistakes and Surprises at the Pacific Fleet (Oct. 29, 2019)

    The Last Hawaiian Monarch (March 12, 2019)

    United the Islands (Oct. 2, 2018)

    A Day that Will Live in Infamy (June 26, 2018)

Lions, Tigers, and Bears!

“I always saw potential for humor in animals. I loved them, and I was always telling stories about them…” (4).

The Book

For many, the name Jack Hanna is synonymous with the Columbus Zoo and the world of animals. Hanna’s autobiography, Jungle Jack: Into the Wild, presents a humble man who loved his family and animals.

Hanna’s family moved to a farm outside Knoxville, TN when he was five years old. This cemented his early love for animals and led to a summer job with a local veterinarian at the age of 11. Hanna was able to ride along with the vet when he cared for the animals at the Knoxville Zoo, planting seeds for the future. Despite struggling in school, Hanna did enjoy his college speech class and graduated, planning to be a zookeeper.

During the 1970s, Hanna and his wife Suzi, bounced around the south working at zoos or as exotic animal caretakers. They had three daughters, who became just as enthralled with animals as their parents. In 1978, 31-year-old Hanna was hired as the director of the Columbus Zoo, despite the board’s concern with his youth and inexperience. Hanna dived into the opportunity, focusing on energizing the employees and improving the zoo through natural habitats for the animals and creating a relationship with the community. As director, Hanna served as an ambassador, appearing on Good Morning America and the David Letterman Show. Later, he had his own TV shows – Jack Hanna’s Animal Adventures and Jack Hanna’s Into the Wild – these often included his family.

Jungle Jack: Into the Wild is a lot of fun to read, especially if you love animals. It feels like you are sitting in Hanna’s living room, listening to him reflect on his life. The animal stories made me laugh out loud, cringe, or warmed my heart. There are two sections of color photos and black and white photos sprinkled throughout; they highlight the Hanna family and numerous animal experiences. Hanna is quick to give credit to those who provided him support and encouragement and emphasizes the need to treat wild animals with respect. Hanna also editorializes, explaining how practices have changed over time. He clearly states why he feels zoos are important: they aid in conservation efforts and the animals act as ambassadors for those in the wild.

The Place

It’s hard to be bored at the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium, with numerous animals to see in action, exhibits to explore, and amusement rides. As you plan your trip, make sure to check out the special animal encounters or events that are happening.

I have visited twice, both in the winter. First, a friend and I visited on a chilly December day. We spent the day in the Zoo, wandering through well marked areas that grouped animals by their native lands. The Zoo has done a fantastic job mimicking the natural habitats of animals, allowing visitors to see them “in the wild”. Some of my favorites included the baby elephant, penguins, and polar bears. The manatee exhibit is unique because the goal is to rehabilitate and send the manatees back to Florida. In the evening, we had fun at Wildlights, the holiday light show. The Zoo is decked out in Christmas lights, some animals remain active, and there are musical light shows. The second time I visited, it was just in the evening, for the Wildlights. My friend and I were there on a Friday night, which is typically busy. However, the below freezing temperature kept the crowds away.

The Zoo is open every day, except Thanksgiving and Christmas Day, from 9am to 5pm. Hours do vary in the winter months and on weekends. Day passes must be purchased, or you can buy a membership. There is a large parking lot, with a fee per car. The Zoo can be crowded during special events or nice weather. If you don’t mind the rain or cold, it might be a good idea to go when you can avoid crowds.

Kaskaskia

“[Starved Rock] is not less than two hundred and fifty feet high, perpendicular on three sides, and washed at its base by the river […] the effect upon the observer is striking and imposing” (152).

The Book

Many Illinois residents are familiar with the tale of how Starved Rock got its name: One Native American tribe laid siege to another Native American tribe seeking shelter at the top. However, The History of Starved Rock by Mark Walczynski is quick to point out that this tale has no grounding in history.

The Illinois were the original inhabitants of the land in what would eventually become the north central area of the state of Illinois. During the spring and summer, they would live together, farming and hunting; and during the fall and winter, they would split into smaller camps. In 1673, they had their first encounter with Europeans. Jesuit priest Marquette started a mission after leaving Frenchmen Jolliet’s expedition from Canada. A few years later, French explorer LaSalle visited and recognized the defensive benefits of Starved Rock. He established an alliance with the Illinois, including trade, for the next twenty years. In 1690, the once lush natural resources were depleted and both the French and Illinois abandon the area. 

The eighteenth century was marked by turmoil as two wars were waged. The first, the Fox Wars, pitted the French and their Native American allies against the Mesquakie tribe. At least one of the skirmishes was at Starved Rock. The second was the French and Indian War which resulted in the transfer of Starved Rock into British hands and eventually American hands. Starved Rock in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries saw quite a lot of change, as American settlers moved into the area. The Black Hawk War (1832) was the last attempt by Native Americans to protect their land; it was unsuccessful and they agreed to resettle west of the Mississippi River. Sixty years later, with the invention of the automobile and creation of highways, Starved Rock become a popular tourist destination. Amidst growing concern that the natural resources would be exploited in private hands, the state of Illinois purchased the land in 1911. Today, over 2 million visitors explore the park every year and there is still the challenge to preserve the park’s ecosystem. 

The History of Starved Rock presents two lesser-known aspects of Illinois history: the Native Americans and the French. As a reader, I appreciated the detail and research that Walczynski put into the book, enabling me to learn more about this part of history. The narrative flows well and the reader can feel like they are on an in-depth tour. One unique aspect of the book is that each chapter has both an English title and a Native American title. Throughout the book, there are black and white photos of the area and items at the Starved Rock Visitor Center. When the topography and geography descriptions get detailed, these are helpful to refer back to.

The Place

Since it’s opening in 1912, Starved Rock State Park has been a popular destination for both Illinois residents and out of state guests. Visitors come for a variety of reasons: Illinois history, Native American history, geology, and breathtaking nature views. My first visit was in eighth grade, to learn more about Illinois history and geology. We visited in the fall and had the opportunity to hike to the top of Starved Rock and learn about the Starved Rock Lock and Dam on the Illinois River. 

Starved Rock State Park is open 7am to dusk; there is no entry or parking fees. Depending on the weather and season, visitors can hike, picnic, fish, boat, or stay in the lodge or cabins.  The Visitor Center is open daily, with reduced hours during the winter months, and provides insights into the land, inhabitants, and wildlife. The park hosts events throughout the year including night hikes, eagle observations, and fall color tours. A questions and answers booklet, written by the Starved Rock Lodge, provides additional information.

Hawthorne’s Muse

“Half-way down a by-street of one of our New England towns, stands a rusty wooden house with seven acutely peaked gables facing towards various points of the compass, and a huge, clustered chimney in the midst” (6).

The Book

In his preface, author Nathaniel Hawthorne calls The House of the Seven Gables a “romance”. There is love of power, love of land, and love of money. It is not until the end that the reader encounters a taste for what we would typically call “romance”. Woven throughout these “loves” are themes focused on guilt, sins of forefathers, fear, and a touch of joy. 

Hawthorne begins the story in the past. His third-person omniscient narrator explains how the Pyncheon family came to own the land where the House of the Seven Gables stands. It was by nefarious means, during the witch hysteria, resulting in a curse on Pyncheon descendants. The current resident of the house is Hepzibah, an old maid who has lived in seclusion for over 25 years. She leases a few rooms to a young man, Holgrave, who mostly keeps to himself. Facing poverty, Hepzibah is forced to open a cent shop on the first floor. The narrator paints a pitiful portrait of a women anxious about failure and interacting with her neighbors. It is not long after the cent shop opens that two more people take up residence: Phoebe Pyncheon, a young cousin from the country, and Clifford Pyncheon, Hepzibah’s brother who seems to have experienced something traumatic. The three Pyncheons fall into a comfortable routine, with Phoebe bringing joy and light back into the house. 

This comfortable routine is rocked when Phoebe returns home for a brief stay and Judge Pyncheon, another cousin, demands to see Clifford. Hepzibah is desperate to protect her brother and the reader is left suspecting something sinister is going on. Hepzibah only relents when Clifford agrees to see the Judge. To avoid giving any more away, I will leave my readers in suspense with this statement: it was hard to stop reading chapters 15 through 21. 

The House of the Seven Gables was an engaging read. The narrator has a sense of humor, commenting on their own abilities and what the characters do. The book doesn’t have much dialogue; instead, the narrator spends a lot of time describing the mundane every day, character personalities, and reactions of characters. This helps the reader feel like they are a part of the story, present in the House of the Seven Gables, and invested in what happens to Hepzibah, Phoebe, and Clifford. I enjoyed the ability to picture what I was reading, both from the narrator’s descriptions and my tour of the actual house. Without giving the ending away, I will say that you will be satisfied with how Hawthorne wraps up his tale of The House of the Seven Gables.

The Place

The House of the Seven Gables is about a 15-minute walk from the center of Salem. It stands on the banks of the Salem Harbor, with views of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. Visitors are able to wander the grounds behind the house and step into the birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne (the building was moved here in 1958). We visited in mid-April and I can only imagine how beautiful the grounds would be when the spring flowers are in full bloom or the fall colors are out in force. While we were able to walk up and purchase tickets, this may not be possible during busier times. 

Visitors have two options when purchasing tickets: the Mansion Tour Experience (which includes a Grounds Pass) or a Grounds Pass. I would recommend the Mansion Tour Experience; after all, the reason why this is a tourist locale is the House of the Seven Gables. You are free to roam the grounds at your own pace, but the Mansion Tours have set times. I had not read The House of the Seven Gables or seen the movie prior to visiting. The tour guide did refer to some characters on the tour, without explaining the plot, but it did not detract from my experience. My favorite part of the tour was walking up a narrow and steep staircase to stand beneath the gables. It was here that our tour guide showed how the house was built with a small model.

A Buckeye in the White House

“I never saw anything finer than old Spiegel is now in her fall dress and colors […]. The dark red or maroon of the great white oaks, in contrast with the lighter colors of maples and hickories, make a picture of wonderful beauty” (Rutherford B. Hayes, 511).

The Book

Author Ari Hoogenboom bookends his biography of Rutherford B. Hayes with a call to place him in the proper perspective and to avoid divorcing his presidency from the context of the time. These editorials notes are what make reading Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President an interesting and educational experience.

Rutherford Birchard Hayes was born in 1822, two and a half months after his father died, in Delaware, OH. His early life was marked by health difficulties and a close relationship with his mother, older sister, and mother’s brother (Uncle Sardis). The influence of these three molded him into a public leader who was confident, virtuous, patriotic, and ambitious. Hayes’s education included a local school, two prep schools, Kenyon College, and Harvard Law School. Upon graduation, he moved to Cincinnati where he was a criminal defense lawyer. After several years as a traveling bachelor, Hayes married Lucy Webb in 1852. Their marriage was strong and loving, despite years of separation during the Civil War and the deaths of several young children.

Hayes was an early volunteer, enlisting in June 1861 as an officer in the 23rd regiment of Ohio Volunteers, to join the fight against slavery. During his four years, Hayes was wounded five times and had four horses shot out from under him. At the close of the Civil War, his focus shifted to politics. After a brief stint as a congressman, Hayes was elected to three terms as Ohio governor. As governor, he championed suffrage, civil service reform, prison reform, and desegregation. In 1876, Hayes was nominated as the compromise presidential candidate for the Republican party.

The Hayes presidency focused on the same initiatives the Hayes governorship did. For the protection of the rights of blacks in the south and civil service reform, Hayes was often at odds with both sides of the political aisle and could be naïve in his belief that people would always be fair and just. Pledging to only serve one term, he navigated opposition, worked to unify the Republican party, and strategically used the veto, helping to reestablish presidential power. Post-presidency, Hayes didn’t give up on his causes: universal education, civil service reform, and prison reform. When he wasn’t traveling for them, he was enjoying life at Spiegel Grove, where he loved the double veranda and entertaining family and friends. He passed away in 1893, four years after Lucy.

Rutherford B. Hayes: Warrior & President is a formidable book to read (over 500 pages!). The amount of detail can be a bit overwhelming at times, but if a reader makes it to the end, they have a clearer sense of who Hayes was. Some readers may want to pick and choose chapters, depending on what interests them the most. The details do frequently contain fun anecdotes that bring the people to life. Hoogenboom liberally quotes letters to and from Hayes that add different insights and voices to the narrative. This allows the reader to observe Hayes’s political beliefs develop over time, from his own writings and thinking and the influence of family and friends. One of the most interesting sections, to me, was Hayes’s life after the presidency. Here, I did appreciate the detail as I learned about his active civic engagement at the local, state, and national levels.

The Place

The Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Library and Museums at Spiegel Grove is home to the first presidential library open to the public. It stands as a testament to Hayes’s commitment to civil and community service.

Out of all the presidential libraries and museums I have visited, this was one of my favorites. The wooded grounds are just big enough to transport visitors back in time, imagining what it was like when the Hayes family lived at Spiegel Grove. The museum begins with a detailed narrative and interesting artifacts from the political life of Hayes, helping the visitor understand the context of his decisions. Working backwards, the museum highlights important parts from Hayes’s early life and his service during the Civil War. The original museum building serves as a monument to Hayes and his collection of president signatures, a practice continued by the museum staff today. The home tour allows visitors to step into the personal life of Hayes, learning how important family was despite frequent separations. The whole family hardly ever lived at Spiegel Grove together, but their imprints are there.

The museum and library are open April to December, with limited hours in the winter months. Tours are required for the Hayes home, while the museum is self-guided. Tickets can be purchased online or at the museum. I would recommend planning for several hours, depending on interest, in order to see everything: the museum, home, graveyard, and the grove.

Colorado Castle

“Palmer’s new estate was difficult for eastern and midwestern folk to comprehend in one or two visits: a stately, fashionable Camelot amid the crags of the Rockies” (141).

The Book

A Kingdom of Their Own: The Story of the Palmers of Glen Eyrie by Stephen J. May introduces readers to the founder of Colorado Springs, Colorado, a man marked by his experiences and love for the outdoors. Not to be overlooked, the book also highlights his family and the home they built in the midst of the Rockies. 

Two experiences were particularly impactful for William Palmer: his service fighting for the Union in the Civil War and his career in the railroad industry. As a member of the abolitionist movement, Palmer was quick to organize a calvary troop. His skills were recognized by leadership who promoted him to brevet brigadier general at 28. For the rest of his life, he was known as General Palmer. In 1867, Palmer was hired by the Kansas Pacific Railroad to survey the best route from Kansas to the Pacific. While in Colorado, Palmer became enchanted with the land at the base of Pikes Peak and dreamed of building a town and home there. After buying the land, he created his own railroad (from Denver to Pueblo) and the town of Colorado Springs began to grow. 

Palmer had to work hard to convince his new wife, Queen, of the benefits of living in Colorado Springs. She was from New York City, well-educated, and enjoyed the benefits of living close to society and cultural affairs. Part of the convincing involved the promise of a stately home, fit for an English lord. She lived in a modest home, built in 1872, but didn’t live to see the completed Glen Eyrie Castle. In 1903, the home was enlarged to 65 rooms and included all the modern conveniences. The grounds were left as natural as possible, with numerous riding and hiking trails through the mountains. It was on one of those trails that a horse threw Palmer in 1906. Until his death three years later, Palmer was paralyzed from the waist down, limiting his ability to enjoy the outdoors. 

Glen Eyrie, a somewhat silent character in the book, passed between a few owners who used it sporadically. The Navigators, a Christian ministry, purchased the grounds and buildings in 1953. Today, the organization uses it has its headquarters and for training, a conference center, the community, and conservation. 

One of the aspects of this book that I really appreciated was the descriptions of frontier life, for a newly founded town, and the railroad survey work. May doesn’t go into extreme detail, but it is enough to draw the reader in (especially one who may not be as familiar with these topics). The narrative is supplemented by excerpts from letters by Palmer, Queen, and their oldest daughter, as well as contemporaries and family members. You get a sense of how much Palmer loved Colorado Springs and how torn Queen was with their separation. It would have been nice to include more about Glen Eyrie itself. For such an imposing building, it feels like too minor of a character in the narrative.

The Place

Over a hundred years after the Palmer family finished Glen Eyrie, visitors are still treated to tours of the estate and grounds. On the tour, you will learn about the Palmer family, the founding of Colorado Springs, and the ministry of the Navigators. We visited during the week in March, when it wasn’t too crowded. 

Tours are offered twice a day and are $12 per person. Most of the tour takes place indoors, but true to Palmer’s love for the outdoors, the tour does include some of the grounds. A separate geological walking tour is also available, but only during the summer months. Unlike many other historic homes, Glen Eyrie provides the opportunity to spend the night. Most rooms come with breathtaking views of the rock formations on the grounds.