Tuesday, September 3, 2024

Colorado Castle

“Palmer’s new estate was difficult for eastern and midwestern folk to comprehend in one or two visits: a stately, fashionable Camelot amid the crags of the Rockies” (141).

The Book

A Kingdom of Their Own: The Story of the Palmers of Glen Eyrie by Stephen J. May introduces readers to the founder of Colorado Springs, Colorado, a man marked by his experiences and love for the outdoors. Not to be overlooked, the book also highlights his family and the home they built in the midst of the Rockies. 

Two experiences were particularly impactful for William Palmer: his service fighting for the Union in the Civil War and his career in the railroad industry. As a member of the abolitionist movement, Palmer was quick to organize a calvary troop. His skills were recognized by leadership who promoted him to brevet brigadier general at 28. For the rest of his life, he was known as General Palmer. In 1867, Palmer was hired by the Kansas Pacific Railroad to survey the best route from Kansas to the Pacific. While in Colorado, Palmer became enchanted with the land at the base of Pikes Peak and dreamed of building a town and home there. After buying the land, he created his own railroad (from Denver to Pueblo) and the town of Colorado Springs began to grow. 

Palmer had to work hard to convince his new wife, Queen, of the benefits of living in Colorado Springs. She was from New York City, well-educated, and enjoyed the benefits of living close to society and cultural affairs. Part of the convincing involved the promise of a stately home, fit for an English lord. She lived in a modest home, built in 1872, but didn’t live to see the completed Glen Eyrie Castle. In 1903, the home was enlarged to 65 rooms and included all the modern conveniences. The grounds were left as natural as possible, with numerous riding and hiking trails through the mountains. It was on one of those trails that a horse threw Palmer in 1906. Until his death three years later, Palmer was paralyzed from the waist down, limiting his ability to enjoy the outdoors. 

Glen Eyrie, a somewhat silent character in the book, passed between a few owners who used it sporadically. The Navigators, a Christian ministry, purchased the grounds and buildings in 1953. Today, the organization uses it has its headquarters and for training, a conference center, the community, and conservation. 

One of the aspects of this book that I really appreciated was the descriptions of frontier life, for a newly founded town, and the railroad survey work. May doesn’t go into extreme detail, but it is enough to draw the reader in (especially one who may not be as familiar with these topics). The narrative is supplemented by excerpts from letters by Palmer, Queen, and their oldest daughter, as well as contemporaries and family members. You get a sense of how much Palmer loved Colorado Springs and how torn Queen was with their separation. It would have been nice to include more about Glen Eyrie itself. For such an imposing building, it feels like too minor of a character in the narrative.

The Place

Over a hundred years after the Palmer family finished Glen Eyrievisitors are still treated to tours of the estate and grounds. On the tour, you will learn about the Palmer family, the founding of Colorado Springs, and the ministry of the Navigators. We visited during the week in March, when it wasn’t too crowded. 

Tours are offered twice a day and are $12 per person. Most of the tour takes place indoors, but true to Palmer’s love for the outdoors, the tour does include some of the grounds. A separate geological walking tour is also available, but only during the summer months. Unlike many other historic homes, Glen Eyrie provides the opportunity to spend the night. Most rooms come with breathtaking views of the rock formations on the grounds.