“Island Fortress”

“The island of Oahu offered the best natural port in the Hawaiian Islands and once the US Navy committed to establishing a major base there, the Army was assigned and enthusiastically undertook the mission to defend this against all known threats” (4).

The Book

When most people hear “Pearl Harbor” their immediate reaction is to think of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, which caught the US Army and Navy by surprise. What people don’t realize is the amount of thought and work that went into fortifying the island of Oahu from a naval and amphibious landing attack, not an attack from the air. Defenses of Pearl Harbor and Oahu 1907-50 introduces the reader to that fortification process.

Initial defense plans were developed in 1901, taking advantage of Oahu’s natural features and focusing on coastal and land attacks. From 1907 to 1938, the Army spent $150 million on defenses. Batteries (gun emplacements) were built at strategic locations along the coast; eventually there would be fifteen. They were typically two stories of reinforced concrete, with large guns on the upper level and smaller guns on the lower level. In addition, both the Army and Navy built airfields and anti-aircraft defenses. After the surprise attack on December 7, 1941, underground facilities were built and naval turrets were adapted for coastal defense. Post-World War II, many of the defense sites were adapted for different uses by the Army and Navy. Most still exist today because they were built to withstand an attack and are too difficult to destroy.

Authors McGovern and Williford do a good job of describing the design and construction of the various defense mechanisms around Oahu. For the most part, the information is easy to follow and doesn’t get too technical. However, this book is definitely more for a niche audience: those interested in military history and defense. The photos and illustrations throughout the book have very clear and detailed captions. There are a handful of computer illustrations that provide a detailed look when a photo isn’t available or descriptive enough. I appreciated these, but sometimes found the captions hard to read (they were often black text on a dark background).

The Place

The US Army Museum of Hawaii is located in Battery Randolph, one of the batteries built to help defend Oahu. Visitors learn about a variety of topics related to the defense of the Hawaiian Islands. I really enjoyed the museum because of this variety. The building itself is unique, made out of reinforced concrete with no windows. Interspersed throughout exhibits are mannequins staged to operate the battery against attackers. Exhibits about Hawaiian warriors defending their island precedes exhibits on the work of the US Army to build up the island’s defense. The impact of World War II on the military, civilian population, and Japanese Americans is explored. Finally, visitors learn about the role Hawaii played during the Vietnam War.

If this is the type of museum you enjoy, I would recommend planning plenty of time. We stopped in, after another tour, and ended up rushing through the last parts. While it doesn’t appear to be a big museum, there is a lot of information packed in. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am-5pm and admission is free. It is a part of Fort DeRussy and located in the heart of Waikiki. In fact, the famous beach is just on the other side of the battery.

President and Chief Justice

“William Howard Taft, the only president who went on to serve as chief justice of the United States, devoted his leadership of the executive and judicial branches to defending the U.S. Constitution above all” (2).

The Book

William Howard Taft by Jeffrey Rosen is a part of The American Presidents series. The aim of this series is to provide a compact and authoritative biography that explores the character and career of each president. Rosen does this by writing a biography that looks at Taft’s presidency and judgeship together. William Howard Taft views its subject from a constitutional perspective, not a political perspective, which is how Taft would have viewed himself. 

Rosen spends the first two chapters laying the foundation for Taft’s presidency (chapters 3-5) and judgeship (chapter 6). As a young boy and man, Taft found it hard to meet the high expectations of his father, a member of the Ohio Superior Court who prioritized the law over politics. This is a bit surprising to the reader, when you consider Taft’s accomplishments: graduated second in his class at Yale and considered the best debater of his class, youngest tax collector in the US at 24, appointed to the Ohio Superior Court at 30. And he was only getting started: next came Solicitor General of the US, US Court of Appeals for the Sixth Circuit, and dean and professor of Cincinnati Law School. Yet, Taft often felt insecure and his anxiety manifested in overeating.  

Taft’s mid-career was marked by positions that put service to his country or appeasing his family ahead of his own career desires. He spent three years as Civil Governor of the Philippines, which provided the opportunity to shape the country’s Constitution and future. Twice, he declined appointments to the Supreme Court – his dream – because he felt his work wasn’t finished in the Philippines. However, he did leave in 1903 to serve as Secretary of War in President Theodore Roosevelt’s cabinet. In 1908, the Republican party nominated him as a middle of the road candidate, between conservatism and radicalism. 

As president, Taft planned to continue Roosevelt’s policies by making them adhere to the Constitution. He operated like a judge in all his work. This included how he interacted with Congress, refusing to interfere or influence because he saw it as unconstitutional. Rosen covers four major issues of the Taft presidency: tariffs and tax reform, the environment, monopolies, and foreign affairs. In each issue, Taft’s commitment to honesty, party loyalty, and the Constitution often placed him at odds with others. This laid the foundation for a four-way 1912 election: Taft, Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and Eugene Debs. Taft’s defense of the Constitution was lost amidst the excitement of Roosevelt’s New Nationalism and Wilson’s New Freedom. Despite his struggles as president and loss in 1912, Taft still managed to leave a significant legacy creating 10 national parks and emphasizing trade relations over military force in diplomacy. 

Finally, in 1921, Taft achieved his dream job: Chief Justice of the United States. He threw himself into judicial reform, creating “the modern federal judiciary as a separate and cohesive branch of government” (113). Congress approved his three goals: a judicial conference of federal appellate judges led by the chief justice, the Judiciary Act of 1925, and a building just for the Supreme Court. In his nine-year tenure, he was a nationalist, strict Constitutionalist, and viewed the Supreme Court as the last line of defense.

I was excited to read William Howard Taft because the Introduction reminded me of the appreciation I had for Taft after visiting his home in Cincinnati. Rosen writes in a compelling way that is able to draw the reader in. The first two chapters move quickly through Taft’s early life, while the flow slows in chapters 3-6 to dive deeper into the presidency and judgeship. In these chapters, the reader learns more about the contrasting political platforms for the 1908 and 1912 elections, background on the four major issues of the Taft presidency, and his legal opinions from the Supreme Court. The only downside is the minimal attention paid to Taft’s family. The reader learns a bit about the influence Taft’s father and wife had, and his children are mentioned in passing.

The Place

The William Howard Taft National Historic Site is nestled in a Cincinnati neighborhood. Much has changed since President Taft was born there, especially the hospital directly across the street, but the atmosphere of the park helps transport visitors back to the 1860s and 1870s. As you walk through the front door, you are following in the footsteps of young Will Taft. Each room contains furniture and artifacts that he and his family used, including the law books in the library read by both Taft and his father. The rooms on the second floor are laid out as a chronological museum, highlighting artifacts and events from Taft’s professional career and personal life. Visitors can see his cabinet chair (Secretary of 
War) and the Bible he used to take the presidential oath and chief justice oath.  

This park includes the home where President Taft was born and grew up, the Taft Education Center, a small grassy area, and a parking lot. Visitors should head to the Taft Education Center first, where they can view the park film, explore special exhibits, and depart for a tour of the Taft Home. Admission is free. Guided tours are available every thirty minutes and cover the first floor of the house. Visitors take a self-guided tour of the second floor. The park is open daily, with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. 

We visited during the week, in the summer, and were part of a small tour. While a small park, this one does a great job on educating visitors about Taft. Often overlooked, his unwavering commitment to the Constitution and decades of service to America are reason enough to make a stop here. I walked away with a newfound appreciation for him and a desire to know more.

Limestone Penitentiary

“The exterior of the prison impresses the visitor, and at first sight suggests one of those old castles of the olden time…” (30-31).

The Book

From 1858 to 2002, men and women convicted of various crimes, in Illinois, served out their sentences at the Illinois State Penitentiary (also referred to as the Joliet Prison and later the Joliet Correctional Center). In Old Joliet Prison: When Convicts Wore Stripes, author Amy Kinzer Steidinger introduces readers to stories from the first 55 years. 

In 1857, 160 prisoners began building the walls that would enclose them; the limestone was quarried on site and helped prevent tunneling for escape attempts. The prisoners completed the work in 1869 and soon their number swelled to 1,000. Life inside the prison was marked by labor, attempted escapes, the occasional fights, discipline, and few comforts. One example is the central dining room. There wasn’t one until 1903, prior to that, prisoners had to eat in their cells. 

Old Joliet Prison is filled with the type of tidbits that are typically part of a tour. I found two particularly interesting. The same architecture firm that designed the Illinois State Capitol and Water Tower (in Chicago) designed the Illinois State Penitentiary. In the late 1800s, there was a sense of pride in Joliet, that their city included the state penitentiary: “When you are introduced to a prominent citizen and have remarked that Joliet seems a most promising town, he inquires with pride: ‘Have you visited the Penitentiary yet?’ Just like in Cincinnati, they ask ‘Have you seen the fountain?’ or in Chicago: ‘What do you think of our lake?’” (The St. Louis Globe-Democrat, 63). 

Kinzer Steidinger’s intention was to provide a more in-depth “tour” of the Illinois State Penitentiary. She relies on news stories that published accounts of what happened at the prison or who the various prisoners were. The chapters are organized by a range of years and include short vignettes. It really does feel like you are reading what a tour guide might share, just more than a tour has time to include. Black and white photos are embedded throughout and it was helpful to see what the prison looked like, prior to its current rundown state.

The Place

The Old Joliet Prison provides a unique glimpse into multiple layers of history. The top layer is what the visitor can see: a complex that has fallen into disrepair. The second and third layers, are revealed on the tour: the experiences and personalities that found their way into the complex. Throughout its long history, the prison has been featured in or referenced in many films (the most famous being The Blues Brothers) and TV shows. Tour guides will point this out, in addition to sharing stories about the guards, prisoners, and life in prison. 

Many of the buildings are original to the 1858 opening and were in use until the prison closed in 2002. The complex sat vacant for over a decade, until 2018 when the Joliet Area Historical Museum began giving tours. Three types of tours are offered, at various prices and times: self-guided, guided, and prison after dark. I would recommend the guided tour for the average visitor; it provides a good introduction to the history of the prison. Not all buildings are open to the public, but we were able to go inside the buildings that once held prisoners in solitary confinement and the hospital. Closed toed shoes are required (because of the state the complex is in) and the majority of time is spent outside, walking around the fifteen acres.

A Waterway to Unify the Nation

“Expressed in the concept’s of today’s world, people perceived the [Erie] canal as a combination of Disneyland, the Grand Canyon, and a high-tech laboratory in Silicon Valley” (325).

The Book 

The Wedding of the Waters: The Erie Canal and the Making of a Great Nation by Peter L. Bernstein sets out to explore “how a revolutionary technological network molded the triumph of the United States as a continental power and as a giant in the world economy” (21). The book is split into five sections that tell the story of the Erie Canal as it evolved from a visionary idea to construction to a key transport route across the northern United States. 

Bernstein introduces the reader to the “visionaries”, the men who identified the significance of a route to link the eastern seaboard with the inland areas of the colonies through the Appalachian Mountains. Trade, commerce, and preservation of national unity were all seen as motivations for the link. As early as 1724, the Mohawk River Valley in New York was recognized as the place for access to the west. About seventy years later, Elkanah Watson – an avid traveler who was enamored with canals – completed a survey of the Mohawk River to make it navigable, which led to a dramatic reduction in the cost of transporting goods. 

From 1808-1817, support began to build for a canal that would link the New York City harbor with Lake Erie. The New York State Legislature appointed commissioners to survey the path, including DeWitt Clinton (a powerful New York politician and chief champion of the Erie Canal). Construction finally began on July 4, 1817; after years of delays due to political resistance and the War of 1812. The plan was for 363 miles, 83 locks, and 18 aqueducts at the cost of $4.9 million. Interestingly, at the time work began, “there was no one in the entire United States who could properly style himself as a professional ‘engineer’” (191). 

The Erie Canal took eight years to complete. Work began in the middle, the easiest section, followed by the eastern and western sections. Workers dug the canal by hand, used gunpowder to blast through rock, and invented devices to quickly fell trees and remove trunks. When work ceased in October 1825, the celebrations began. On October 26, a caravan of canal boats left Buffalo, New York and floated the 363 miles to the New York Harbor. There were ceremonies in 20 towns and on November 4, Clinton poured water from Lake Erie into the Atlantic Ocean – the “wedding of the waters”. 

The narrative of The Wedding of the Waters is easy to follow with first-hand accounts from those who played a large role in developing the Erie Canal and people who happened to travel the route, before and after construction. There are a lot of individuals to keep track of throughout the book; I often found myself wishing there was a character list that I could refer back to. Descriptive language helps the reader visualize the geography, which is extremely important to the story. Bernstein often provides additional context (i.e., population size, economics, politics of the time) to enhance the story. However, sometimes the context includes lengthy detours that aren’t necessary. In my opinion, the most interesting section was the last. It focused on the immediate and long-term impact of the Erie Canal: local, state, national, economic, innovation, and population.

The Place 

I hope that my readers will forgive the stretch in connecting a book to a place. While The Wedding of the Waters is about the Erie Canal that linked the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Erie, the Canal Experience at the Providence Metropark is a part of the Maumee and Erie Canal. This canal provided a link from Lake Erie to the Ohio River, spanning the state from north to south.[1] Despite this, the Canal Experience and significance of the Maumee and Erie Canal are similar to the Erie Canal. 

My family visited in the summer, on a very hot day. It made me appreciate the experience of canal boat passengers as they would slowly float down the river. Park personnel, dressed in period clothing, work the lock, steer the boat, and guide the mules on the towpath. Visitors float about a mile down the original canal, through a quiet countryside. Back on land, you can explore the Isaac Ludwig Mill (a working water-powered saw and gristmill). The Canal Experience won’t take more than half a day, but provides a unique opportunity to experience history. 

The canal boat operates from May to October, similar to the actual operation times for the Erie Canal in its heyday. The Isaac Ludwig Mill also operates during those months. The days and times vary by month, so it’s best to check the website before arriving. Tickets can be purchased online or at the ticket booth.

---

[1] https://ohiohistorycentral.org/w/Miami_and_Erie_Canal

The Governors’ Home

“The Governor’s house is a fine specimen of architecture, and reflects abundant credit upon those who constructed it, and upon the State whose dignity it represents. […] It is an object of honor and praise to this State, and no true citizen can look upon it without pride,” said an 1856 visitor (18-19).

The Book

At Home with Illinois Governors: A Social History of the Illinois Executive Mansion 1855-2003 is a collaboration between author Dan Monroe and Lura Lynn Ryan (First Lady of Illinois 1999-2003). It presents a history of the third oldest governor’s mansion in the United States, using its residents as the main characters. 

When Governor Matteson was elected in 1852, the governor’s home was in the former Illinois Board of Public Works and its front door was up against the sidewalk. Matteson felt this was not suitable for his children, nor for his ability to host receptions with dignity and style. After $50,000 and four years of construction, the mansion opened to the public in January 1856. From that time on, the mansion welcomed governors and their families, state officials, federal visitors, numerous pets, and the people of Illinois. The amount of foot traffic required frequent renovations and restorations. It was quite surprising to see how many times inhabitants found the mansion in poor condition, making the reader wonder how well it was being kept up after frequent renovations.

In the 1960s, the mansion was in danger of being destroyed after many journalists and Governor Kerner viewed it as dangerous. Due to strong support from preservationists and former inhabitants, the mansion was saved, and a massive restoration and addition was completed in the late 1960s. During this time, the Illinois Executive Mansion Association was created. The Association’s mission is to help preserve the mansion and its honorary chairwoman is always the current First Lady of Illinois.

At Home with Illinois Governors is unique because the story of the mansion is told through the lens of the various governors. It is interesting to read of the impact they, and their wives, had on the décor and events. However, it sometimes felt like the mansion took a back seat. There is a brief paragraph about the architect and design of the building and subsequent renovations are described. When special events are highlighted, the author does include details on the décor and programs. The book includes photos of the mansion and its inhabitants as well as watercolors, by Kay Smith, of the interior, exterior, and gardens of the Mansion. The photos capture inhabitants during formal events and everyday life, while the watercolors provide present day views. These are a nice supplement to the stories told in each chapter, which often draw on period newspaper articles and recollections from visitors and inhabitants.

The Place

The Illinois Executive Mansion, or “The People’s House”, provides visitors the opportunity to peak behind the scenes of state government. Since 1855, governors have lived, worked, entertained, and debated within its four walls. The tour highlights select governors – like Governor Yates who served during the Civil War or Governor Stevenson who went on to run for president – and significant eras of Illinois history. Tour guides will also point out the architectural features – like the prominent spiral staircase – and antique furniture – like the hand carved bedroom set that was on display at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. The tour covers most of the public areas, but the governor’s private quarters are off limits.

Unfortunately, for almost a decade, the mansion had been unused by two governors and fallen into disrepair, again. In 2015, newly elected Governor and First Lady Rauner spearheaded a privately funded restoration. My tour of the mansion happened towards the end of the restoration. Most of the obvious work had been completed and I appreciated the opportunity to see the Mansion at its best. I can only imagine what it looks like now.

Today, free tours are available on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at 1:45pm and 3pm. Tours must be reserved ahead of time and all visitors, over 18, must bring a valid photo ID. Photography is not permitted inside the mansion. It is important to note that this is not only a home, but also a functioning state building. There is a possibility that a tour may be canceled.

From Poverty to the Presidency

“Throughout the nation and the world, [Garfield’s] extraordinary rise from fatherlessness and abject poverty would make him the embodiment of the American dream” (22).

The Book

Destiny of the Republic: A Tale of Madness, Medicine, and the Murder of a President by Candice Millard layers the biography of President James A. Garfield with the political spoils system, the sad tale of Charles Guiteau, the inventive mind of Alexander Graham Bell, and the American medical system. It is a lot to cover in one book, but the reader soon discovers how each of these is intrinsically intertwined. 

Two years after Garfield was born, in a one-room log cabin, his father died. His mother and three older siblings sacrificed so that Garfield could have a good education. His education led to the presidency of the Western Reserve Eclectic Institute and then a career in politics. When the Civil War began, Garfield’s strong abolitionist views propelled him to form his own regiment to fight for the Union. He preferred to stay in the Army but was elected to the US House of Representatives in 1862. Despite Garfield’s success, at heart he was a family man who enjoyed spending time with his children. He was big-hearted, cheerful, and had an infectious laugh. 

Garfield’s nomination for the presidency could be considered a fluke. His speech to nominate John Sherman ended with his own nomination, a tenuous compromise in the midst of the political spoils system. Hundreds traveled to his Lawnfield home to hear speeches delivered from his front porch. After winning the presidential election in 1880, Garfield felt a sense of loss for how his life would change. From March 1880-July 1880, he struggled to anchor his presidency amid political pressure and family illness. Just when it seemed like he could govern, he was shot by Charles Guiteau. Guiteau, like many others, felt that he was owed a job in government. This delusion only exacerbated his insanity and led to a belief that God wanted Garfield dead. 

The bullet wounds themselves were not fatal. Unfortunately, the constant probing of the wound by unsanitary instruments and fingers introduced infection into Garfield’s bloodstream. At one point, Alexander Graham Bell attempted to locate the bullet with an early version of the X-ray machine; he only failed because the head doctor limited where Bell could look. Over the course of three months, Garfield’s robust health deteriorated; yet, “even as he lay dying, Garfield was kind, patient, cheerful, and deeply grateful” (263). On September 19, Garfield died. 

Throughout Destiny of the Republic, Millard visually describes locales, conjuring up sights, sounds, and smells for her readers. She places Garfield, his family, friends, and contemporaries within the scenes and incorporates news reports. The visual descriptions are supplemented by Garfield’s own writings (which are forefront), as well as reflections from his family and contemporaries. The largest segment of the book focuses on the shooting of Garfield and the aftermath. The timeline slows, but the pace of the narrative quickens to a play by play. Some of the medical details may be a bit uncomfortable for some readers; I squirmed a bit while reading them. Readers will most likely walk away from this book with two reflections: America lost out on seeing what Garfield could do as president and Garfield would have survived if it weren’t for the obstinance of his doctors. Millard proposes that Garfield’s lasting legacy was the unification of Americans in grief, 2o years after the Civil War, and civil service reform.

The Place

Visitors to the Cleveland area can embark on the President Garfield cradle to grave tour. In one day, you can span the lifetime of our twentieth president and learn about the events that shaped his life and character.

First, is a replica of Garfield’s birthplace in Moreland Hills. The interior is open by appointment only and admission is free. The visit won’t last more than a half hour. Inside, visitors will find one room that reflects the poor nature of Garfield’s upbringing. A short walk through the woods leads to a clearing where the original log cabin stood. 

Second, is the James A. Garfield National Historic Site, or Lawnfield, in Mentor. This is the farm James and Lucretia Garfield purchased in 1876 for their family. Here visitors can tour the home, carefully preserved as it looked when the Garfield family lived there, see the memorial Lucretia built for James (including the first presidential library), and learn more at the museum. The site is open daily May through October and Friday, Saturday, and Sunday November through April. Admission is free, but visitors are encouraged to register for house tours in advance.

 
Last, is Lake View Cemetery, in Cleveland. The James A. Garfield Memorial dominates the cemetery, as testimony to the high regard the people of Cleveland had for Garfield. The interior is open Wednesday through Sunday from May to October, 10am-4pm, and admission is free. It is worth it to take time walking around the main floor, the second floor, and the crypt.