The Fourth Largest Home in America

 “…a testament to an important family and a grand piece of architecture” (ix-x).

The Book 

Matilda Wilson’s Personal Guidebook to Meadow Brook Hall uses Wilson’s words to provide a written guided tour to readers. If you can’t visit for an in-person tour, this is the next best thing. 

Matilda’s first husband was John Dodge (co-founder of the Dodge Brothers Motor Car Company). They acquired Meadow Brook Farm, but John didn’t live long enough to see it transformed into Meadow Brook Hall. The work was done after Matilda married her second husband, Alfred Wilson (a lumber broker). Matilda was personally involved in the design and construction, making sure that all materials were made in America. While the materials are American, the design is Tudor. Today, the Hall and its grounds are owned and operated by Oakland University. The Wilsons generously donated them to create the university in 1957. 

Despite being a very brief book, readers still get a good idea of the history and grandeur of Meadow Brook Hall. The book is organized by rooms, beginning in the Great Hall and moving readers through rooms on the first floor, then on to the lower and second floors.

Images of the rooms, artwork, and features are highlighted, just like on an actual tour of the Hall. Wilson’s words are interspersed with Editor’s notes that provide additional context. Of course, it is no substitute for a tour. Visitors to the Hall will learn more about the family who used the Hall, as well as the architecture and design.

The Place 

Nestled in the rolling hills of Rochester, Michigan sits Meadow Brook Hall. It can’t be seen from the highway and it’s 1500 acres allow visitors to be immersed in the feel of the country, despite being a northern suburb of Detroit. From all angles, the Hall is impressive and it is easy to imagine what it would have been like to drive up the driveway for a party in middle of the twentieth century.

Some highlights are learning about the charitable and civic work of Matilda Wilson, the significance of the décor in each room, seeing the two chairs used by the Dodge brothers in their office, the 1919 Aeolian organ (which can be heard throughout the house), and the closet specifically designed for wrapping presents (the picture to the right).

Visitors can choose a self-guided or guided tour. I would recommend the guided tour, because you always learn more from the seasoned tour guides. The tour lasts about an hour and a half, taking you through all levels of the house. Before or after your tour, you can roam the grounds. Tickets must be purchased online, in advance. In between Thanksgiving and Christmas, visitors can also enjoy a self-guided holiday tour or the Winter Wonder Lights light displays and show.

“A Place Where Things Were Happening”

“[Dayton] began as a place where things were traded. It grew to be a place where things were made. From that, it became a place where things were invented. In this, it was the most Midwestern of places” (18).

The Book

Grand Eccentrics: Turning the Century: Dayton and the Inventing of America does something few books attempt; it is a group biography of five men who had an outsized influence on the lives of all who came after them. While they each impacted one area (or more) of daily life and had different personalities, there were common threads to their stories: residency in Dayton, OH and an inquisitive mind. 

John H. Patterson purchased majority control of the National Manufacturing Company in 1884, which included the rights to the cash register (invented by another Daytonian), and renamed it National Cash Register (NCR). Always seeking to one-up the competition, Patterson created the sales convention, sales pitch, sales training, and direct mail advertising. He provided educational opportunities for his employees and believed that better worker conditions would equal better productivity. He was also demanding, frequently fired employees, and operated with a chip on his shoulder. 

The Wright Brothers (Wilbur and Orville) spent fifty-five months, working part-time, to solve the question of flight. They systematically and meticulously tackled the problem and recognized that flight was just as much about pilot control as getting the plane in the air. Their flights at Huffman Prairie, outside of Dayton, drew hundreds of spectators, but they disliked the publicity. 

James Cox purchased Dayton’s The Daily News in 1898, starting him on a path to a media empire that eventually included other papers, radio and TV stations in Ohio and beyond (Cox Enterprises). He served as Dayton’s congressional representative and then three terms as Ohio’s governor. As governor he restricted child labor, created no fault worker’s compensation, and helped unify the state’s highway system. In 1920, he was the Democratic nominee for president, with Franklin D. Roosevelt as his running mate. However, his decision to make entry to the League of Nations his main issue hurt his chances. 

Charles Kettering began working for NCR’s Inventions department in 1904 and soon invented the electric cash register. He would go on to invent the automobile self-starter and quick drying paint. For 27 years, he was the manager of GM’s Research Corporation, where he developed leaded gasoline, diesel train engines, and Freon. Kettering’s mind was always thinking of the next problem to solve. The wealth he earned from his inventions provided the opportunity to found organizations focused on those problems, like Memorial-Sloan Kettering Hospital and the Kettering Foundation (where the author of this blog is an employee). 

In late March 1913, the Dayton region was the victim of a catastrophic flood. “Fifteen square miles of Dayton lay under six to eighteen feet of water” (144) as a result of heavy rain, already moist ground, and levee failures. Dayton’s leadership hired Arthur Morgan to create long-term and conclusive flood prevention. He created the first regional flood control system in the US and invented the hydraulic jump to support the dry dams. The flood control system is still in place today, protecting downtown Dayton and the surrounding areas. 

Grand Eccentrics was truly a joy to read. Bernstein writes in a way that propels the overall narrative forward, while focusing on the five men and their accomplishments (even the chapter titles are clever). Anecdotal stories are woven throughout, for both context and insight, and are supplemented by quotes from the “grand eccentrics”, their contemporaries, and newspapers. The earlier chapters are focused on one man at a time, exploring their ideas and work. The later chapters focus on moments that impacted all of the men and how they were involved (like the Dayton Flood or World War I). Readers of all types will find this group biography interesting and the narrative easy to follow.

The Place

The shadows of the “grand eccentrics” are long throughout the Dayton area. Several places are already featured in this blog* and two more are highlighted in this post. 

First, is the Dayton Inventors River Walk. Located downtown Dayton (northeast corner of Main St. and Monument Ave.) and along the Great Miami River, visitors walk amongst life-sized versions of the inventions detailed in Grand Eccentrics: Kettering’s automobile self-starter, Morgan’s hydraulic jump, the Wright flyer, and Patterson’s cash register. There are additional inventions, from after the time of the “grand eccentrics”: the search engine, pop-top can, and ice cube tray. We visited during Thanksgiving weekend, when the River Walk wasn’t crowded, but the fountains were not turned on. 

Second, is the Woodland Cemetery & Arboretum, where four of the five “grand eccentrics” are buried: James Cox, Charles Kettering, John Patterson, and the Wright brothers. Other notable Daytonians are also buried at Woodland. My family visited after we walked the Dayton Inventors River Walk. Visitors are permitted to drive through the cemetery on their own or can sign-up for a variety of tours (both broad and specific). There is also a lookout section that provides a great view of downtown Dayton. 

*For additional locations see these blog posts:

Dayton Aviators (Jan. 8, 2019)
Lighter than Air (Jan. 7, 2014)

Chain Defense

“The importance of the Hudson River in the present Contest, and the necessity of defending it, are Subjects which have been so frequently and fully discussed, and are so well understood, that it is unnecessary to enlarge upon them” (George Washington, xiii).

The Book 

Chaining the Hudson by Lincoln Diamant highlights an important part of Revolutionary War history, one that can sometimes take second place to the well-known stories of Philadelphia and New York City. From the start, the leaders of the Revolution recognized the importance of defending the Hudson River, north of New York City. Without it, the northern colonies would be split in two and access to supplies would become extremely difficult. 

In 1775, the northern delegates to the Continental Congress emphasized the importance of protecting the Hudson River. The Hudson Highlands were originally identified as the best place for fortifications. The first attempt, Fort Constitution, was fraught with delays, poor design, and high cost. Fort Washington and two forts named Fort Lee were hastily constructed (George Washington had misgivings about their effectiveness) in 1776. They were joined by a chevaux-de-frise, “shallow-water obstructions […] to fill gaps in a line of hulks to be sunk across the Hudson River from Fort Washington to Fort Lee” (39). In July, two British warships defied these defenses and sailed up the Hudson with little difficulty. 

As the British took control of New York City, the leaders of the Revolution grew more concerned over the lack of defense for the Hudson River. In the spring and summer of 1776, Forts Montgomery and Clinton were completed to act as complementary defenses. An iron chain was placed across the Hudson in March 1777; it weighed 35 tons and was 1,650 feet long. The British attacked the two forts, by land, and filed through a link in the chain. However, by November 1777, the upper Hudson Valley was back in colonist hands. Military leaders decided that West Point (across from Fort Constitution) would be a better area of defense and a new chain was put in place in 1778. In August 1780, Benedict Arnold took command of West Point. He told the British of weak spots in the chain, but was caught before the British could attack. The West Point chain was never tested by an enemy vessel. 

When I first chose this book, I thought it might be more geared towards an academic audience. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it reads more like popular nonfiction. There are drawings, maps, and present-day photos interspersed throughout, helping the reader visualize. Diamant relies heavily on first-hand accounts, mostly from letters, to support the narrative. This is great, but sometimes the lengthy passages are difficult to follow. In Chaining the Hudson, the main characters are geography and strategy. Readers learn of troop movements, engagement, defense designs, and the significance of the area. The reader is periodically reminded of the simultaneous Revolutionary War events, to help ground them in the story. 

The Place 

Fort Montgomery is a lesser-known Revolutionary War locale, but still a worthwhile place to visit. On the northern edge of Bear Mountain State Park, it is surrounded by beautiful mountain and river views. The state park includes a small indoor museum, detailing the significance of the Fort to the defense of the Hudson. Outside are numerous cannons, original stone foundations and earthworks, and recreated structures. A brief walk downhill will bring visitors to Popolopen Creek, a tributary of the Hudson River. A pedestrian suspension bridge provides access to Fort Clinton and the rest of Bear Mountain State Park. 

It is a place that you might miss if you aren’t looking for it. A traffic circle can make it difficult to access if you aren’t familiar with them. My family got a bit turned around, but we eventually made it to the park. We spent a couple of hours there, which was plenty of time. A trip here could easily be combined with other sites in Bear Mountain State Park. Fort Montgomery is open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission is free and donations are welcomed.

Father of the United States Air Force

“In Mitchell’s view, room had to be made for aeronautics as an equal partner of the Army and Navy, if the United States were to protect its interests in a world that was rapidly shrinking with every technical advance” (40).

The Book

Brigadier General William “Billy” Mitchell is one of those interesting characters in United States history. His aeronautical ideas were ahead of their time; the urgent and controversial way he chose to publicize them resulted in his court-martial from the United States Army. In Billy Mitchell: Crusader for Air Power, author Alfred F. Hurley presents a biography that focuses on Mitchell’s ideas and how they interacted with the contemporary dominant individuals and viewpoints. 

Billy Mitchell enlisted in the United States Army in 1898, at the start of the Spanish-American War. His early military career led him to Cuba and the Philippines and in 1901 he officially joined the Signal Corp of the regular Army. In this capacity, Mitchell surveyed the communications work in Alaska and participated in the experimental research at Fort Leavenworth. As early as 1906, he recognized the military potential of lighter-than-air craft, which set his military career on a new trajectory. 

When Mitchell was sent to Europe as an aeronautical observer in April 1917, he was introduced to the theory of aerial warfare. It was clear to him that the United States lacked the equipment, support, and training for the new role aviation was set to play. After World War I, Mitchell set out to champion a separate branch for an air force and the significance of military aviation. Frustrated when his ideas fell on deaf ears, Mitchell often turned to the press to directly appeal to the public. This frustration came to a head when the Navy once again stood in the way of funding for a separate air branch of the military. In 1925, Mitchell was found guilty on disciplinary charges and court-martialed. While Mitchell’s military career was at an end, the Administration began to take military aviation more seriously. In the Epilogue, Hurley vindicates Mitchell’s theories and ideas, despite the way he handled himself, by considering aviation’s role in World War II, Korea, and Vietnam. 

This was a unique biography because there is little time spent on Mitchell’s personal life, other than his family background and early years. Minimal context is provided to ground the narrative and the focus is squarely on the military. Despite that, the book is still easy to read and would be interesting to both the average reader and the avid military buff. Each chapter begins with a brief introduction and ends with a summary and a foreshadow of the next chapter. There are two sections of black and white candid and staged photos. For those who might wish to visualize the story, a film was made in 1955: The Court Martial of Billy Mitchell.

The Place

The National Museum of the United States Air Force is a museum unlike many others. According to the website, it is “the world’s largest military aviation museum”, and it definitely feels like it when you walk in the doors. There are four large hangers that display thousands of aircraft (from the early years of the 20^th century to space missions) and plenty of descriptions for those that want to learn more in-depth. Aircraft hang from the ceiling and are displayed at eye level, some with additional artifacts and mannequins to set the scene. There are several planes that visitors can walk through. Some of my favorite exhibits include the Doolittle Raid and Memphis Belle (WWII gallery), the Missile gallery, and Air Force One (Presidential gallery). 

Both admission and parking are free and the museum is open seven days a week, from 9am to 5pm. It can easily become overwhelming to a first-time visitor and it is impossible to do everything in one day. Free tours are available, if visitors would like to do more than observe the aircraft and read signs. The tours are divided up by hanger and start at the respective information desks. When I was a kid, my family would often go more than once a year. The sheer size allowed for the kids to work off their energy, especially on rainy or cold days. If you only have one day to visit, my recommendation would be to plan based on your interests or to focus on one hanger.

In the Shadow of the Alps

The Book

The Elena Standish novels, by Anne Perry, focus on the diplomatic and espionage attempts to avoid another world war as the Nazis rise to power. In the first book, Death in Focus, readers are introduced to the Standish family, with a focus on Elena. She stumbles into a MI6 mission that leads her on a train ride from Amalfi, Italy to Berlin. A Question of Betrayal picks up several months later; this time, Elena is sent on a mission by MI6 to make contact with an agent and retrieve valuable information. 

Elena Standish travels to Trieste, using her photographer skills as a cover. Her mission is to find Aiden Strother; a man she was romantically involved with, before he appeared to defect to Nazi Germany. He has vital information about British money being used to support the Nazis. At the same time, her sister, Margot, travels to Berlin for a family friend’s wedding to a Gestapo officer. While there she overhears snippets of conversations that hint at the Nazis plans to take over Austria. When she returns to London, she shares these with her grandfather, Lucas (the former head of MI6), who still has connections with MI6. The information and events in Trieste, Berlin, and London begin to add up for the reader, as she sees these three narratives converge. It is a race against time and emotions as the main characters combat Nazi influence in London and Europe. 

A Question of Betrayal captures the reader’s attention from the beginning and crescendos to an unexpected twist of an ending (just like Death in Focus). I found myself getting caught up in the story and reading quickly, to find out what happened next. The narrative is easy to follow as it moves between the main characters and places and the omniscient narrator helps the reader put the pieces together a bit sooner than the characters. Perry uses dialogue and thoughts to provide insight into each character, building upon their development in Death in Focus. One example is Elena’s photographic eye; the periodic commentary (inner or dialogue) provided a new way to visualize the surroundings.

The Place

As I was reading A Question of Betrayal, my mind would often wander back to my visit to northern Italy and Austria. While I was not in Trieste, the descriptions of northern Italy brought to mind places like Pordenone, Italy and Klagenfurt, Austria. Their historic city centers and architecture could have served as subjects for Elena Standish’s camera.

But there is more to this region than architecture. Soave Castle is on the other side of the Adriatic Sea from Trieste. Built sometime in the eleventh century, Soave Castle has a high central tower and several layers of surrounding fortified walls. The walk up to the castle is through the old village center, reminiscent of the Middle Ages. Once on the walls of the castle, you can see for miles throughout the Italian countryside.

Another highlight is Minimundus, north of Trieste, in Austria. This “miniature world on Lake Worthersee” allows visitors to get up close with scale models of famous buildings from around the world. You can dwarf the Taj Majel, compare heights with the Eiffel Tower, or see Independence Hall right in front of the Hollywood sign. The models were made well and carefully preserved, since it is an open-air park. Model trains, based on real Austrian ones, run throughout the park and the space shuttle “launches” every hour.

Northern Italy and Austria are wonderful places to visit, with so much more to offer than I just mentioned here. Over the past two years, COVID-19 put most international travel on hold. Thankfully, those opportunities are once again available. Before you travel, make sure to check the US State Department’s website for updated requirements for traveling to other countries and returning to the United States.

Ask the Man Who Owns One

“Packard was a company where people mattered. The firm always had a distinct personality, an image fashioned by the men who guided its destinies” (3).

The Book

In The Fall of the Packard Motor Car Company, author James A. Ward takes a close look at the rise of Packard and the events that led to its demise. While the title of the book is negative, Ward closes with the fact that Packard lasted 59 years as an independent automaker, longer than many of its contemporaries. 

In 1899, brothers James Ward Packard and William Doud Packard tested their first car in Warren, Ohio. Three years later, the company became the Packard Motor Car Company and soon the plant moved to Detroit. Packard quickly became known for craftmanship, engineering, and innovation. “For years, practically everybody who was anybody advertised his worldly success with a Packard” (10). Packard was the car for the wealthy, but the company struggled to break into the market for moderately priced cars. 

The late 1930s brought tension between those who wanted to remain a luxury brand and those who wanted to cut costs and sell less expensive models. This tension would have an impact on the company’s reputation and sales. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Packard continued to innovate (air conditioning and power windows) and picked up defense contracts (the engines for PT boats), but struggled to compete with the larger car companies through production and quality. As sales declined and the market worsened, Packard merged with Studebaker in 1954. Unfortunately, Studebaker was in worse shape and dragged Packard down with it. Packard’s plant shut down in 1956. The last “Packards” were released in 1958, but they were built from Studebaker parts. 

One of the first things a reader will notice is the classy design (interior and exterior) of the book. This was intentional, a way to invoke a Packard car. Each chapter begins with a black and white image of a different Packard car, further grounding the reader in car mode. The reader learns about the various men who left their mark on Packard, the competitors, and specifications of models. Two photo sections help readers see the cars described in the book. Sometimes, it feels like the narrative gets lost in the weeds of model specifications, finances, management styles, and production. Despite that, the reader walks away with an appreciation for the car industry and the uphill battle to keep the Packard Motor Car Company solvent.

The Place

America’s Packard Museum is a hidden gem located in Dayton, Ohio. One thing that makes this museum unique is that it is located in an original Packard dealership building. The large glass windows display an array of Packards to passersby and the interior shows off both the sales room and the service room. The cars on display range from the early days of Packard until the last model. Visitors are able to get up close to see the craftsmanship and change in designs. My favorite part was seeing all the different hood ornaments. 

The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday in the Fall and Winter, from noon to 5pm. There is an admission fee for adults and seniors. There are three rooms of cars to explore and each car has a placard. Depending on your interest level, you could spend a couple of hours at the museum. If it’s a slow day, the volunteer on duty may be able to spend more time answering your questions.