Canyons and Rapids

“Nothing in the teaming cities of the East or the rolling farmlands of the Midwest prepared the eye for this desert landscape. Both the scenery itself, and that scenery’s epic scale, were utterly unfamiliar” (172).

The Book

Four years after the end of the Civil War, nine men agree to join Joseph Wesley Powell on the Colorado River Exploring Expedition (CREE). Powell’s plan is to map the last unexplored area of the United States. Down the Great Unknown: John Wesley Powell’s 1869 Journey of Discovery and Tragedy Through the Grand Canyon relies on the journals of three of those men to chronicle their adventure.

On May 24, 1869 the ten men set out from the Green River in the Wyoming Territory. They were all seeking adventure, but none had any experience with white water boating and they weren’t a solidified team. There were four boats and supplies to last 10 months. In addition to floating down the rivers, they planned to climb the cliffs out of the canyons, measure the altitudes, and collect fossils. Their journals reveal that most days were difficult: they faced angry rapids, loss of rations, and inclement weather. But Powell’s journal also revealed the experience of seeing the canyons for the first time. On August 29, the finally made it out of the Grand Canyon; their expedition was at an end. One boat had been lost in June, four men had chosen to hike out of the canyon in previous months, and there were less than 10 days of food left.

Down the Great Unknown does more than rely on journal entries, it draws from historians and experienced boatmen to help the reader truly understand what the ten men experienced. Author Dolnick takes the time to explain what it means to line or portage a rapid, the experience of going through a rapid, and the significance of the type of boat used. The narrative is easy to follow as the author switches from journal entries to explanations. One unique aspect was the map at the start of each chapter; it shows the CREE’s location as they floated down the Green River to the Grand River to the Colorado River.  

Ironically, both the Army Corps of Topographical Engineers and a member of Powell’s expedition failed to see the draw of the Grand Canyon. In an 1861 report (Report Upon the Colorado River of the West), Lieutenant Joseph Christmas Ives said, “[This region] is, of course, altogether valueless. […] It seems intended by nature that the Colorado River, along the greater portion of its lonely and majestic way, shall be forever unvisited and undisturbed” (15). Little did they know that one day 5.9 million people, from around the world, would visit every year!

The Place

It’s hard to find words to describe Grand Canyon National Park. As you walk the path from the parking lot to the viewing area, it seems like you aren’t anywhere special. Then, all of sudden, the path reveals a canyon that is a mile deep, 10 miles across, and 300 miles long. The variety of views, colors, and rocks are truly incredible. When my family and I visited the Grand Canyon, we took a bus tour that enabled us to see four viewing areas of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Amphitheatre, Mather Point, Bright Angel Lodge, and Desert View. The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is open year-round and access to the North Rim depends on the season.

Our trip also included a boat ride down the Colorado River; it was less eventful than Powell’s expedition, but just as beautiful. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area looks much different than it did during Powell’s trip. The main difference being Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon dam. Despite this, visitors are still awed by the rising canyon walls as they float down the Colorado River. Our trip began at the dam and meandered south until we reached Lee’s Ferry and the Vermillion Cliffs. Our guide pointed out wildlife, unique rock formations, petroglyphs, and parts of the CREE story. The park is open all day, every day.

Due to the coronavirus pandemic, there are still some buildings at both the Grand Canyon National Park and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area that are closed.