Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Chicagoua: The Place of the Wild Onion

“[We] had faith in each other and faith in Chicago. Its future greatness became [our] theme of thought and conversation, and the inspiration of great plans and deeds.” –Grant Goodrich, an early Chicago settler

The Book

“Chicago” conjures up a variety of historical images and thoughts to any hearer: from the “Windy City” to the Chicago Fire. City of the Century: The Epic of Chicago and the Making of America cuts through all the assumptions and presents an urban biography that focuses on Chicago’s rise from the first recorded discovery of an empty prairie in 1673 to a worldwide destination in 1893.

Fur trader Louis Joliet and Jesuit missionary Jacques Marquette set out from the Straits of Mackinac to explore the land to the south, claimed by France. Their detailed notes and maps introduced wide open prairies and new waterways to explorers. These explorers and early settlers recognized Chicago’s geographic potential, as did many who came after them. “Modern” Chicago began in 1848 with the opening of the Illinois & Michigan canal, construction of railroads and turnpikes, and the establishment of the Board of Trade. Business boomed in Chicago and the city took on massive engineering projects. All of that halted on October 8, 1871 when the Great Chicago Fire raged for 30 hours, destroyed 73 miles of streets, and made 100,000 homeless. 

But Chicago wasn’t halted for long: The railroad and new industries (stockyards, luxury rail cars, and mail-order shopping) drove Chicago to a quick recovery. Cable cars and electric trolleys replaced horse drawn carriages, creating the Loop. Architecture boomed with new advances in structural systems and foundations to build even taller buildings. The wealthy advocated for civic patriotism and began funding projects to promote culture and civics. At the same time, many workers and their families lived in unsanitary slums. The plight of the working classes led to demonstrations, some of them fueled by anarchists. In the midst of these extreme contrasts, Chicago was picked to host the 1893 World’s Fair. Visitors flocked to the White City that could not completely cover up slums, political machines, an active red-light district, and industrial strikes. 

Miller takes on a herculean task: cover over 200 years of history in one volume. He does it in a way that helps the reader grasp key concepts and learn interesting tidbits, without loosing sight of the overall narrative. The one issue was the missing pages early on in the book. On a couple of pages, the words did not line up with the following page. Despite that, you are transported to various times and places with details and quotes from journalists, key people, average people, and fictional characters from novels of the time. Mini biographies are interspersed throughout that provide insight into key players in Chicago history, some more well known than others. At no point did I feel like it was too much information or not enough, Miller struck the right balance and also didn’t sugarcoat the stories of people or events. 

*For more information see these blog posts:
·         The Architect and the Skyscraper
·         Flowing through the Windy City
·         The White City

The Place

The Chicago History Museum is a one of a kind museum that uses a variety of exhibits to engage visitors with Chicago’s past. I would recommend beginning with Chicago: Crossroads of America, and if possible, join a guided tour with one of the docents. This section of the museum corresponds almost exactly with City of the Century: The Epic of Chicago and the Making of America. Artifacts from the early settlers, the Great Chicago Fire, and the 1893 World’s Fair make history come to life. Another highlight are the detailed dioramas depicting Chicago as a frontier post to the World’s Fair. The other permanent and temporary exhibits provide hands on activities and a chance to glimpse significant artifacts.

As with most museums these days, The Chicago History museum has had to adapt to life impacted by the coronavirus. Visitors are encouraged to purchase tickets in advance and follow special guidelines, listed on the website. Some exhibits are closed, due to their hands-on nature. The museum has also developed ways for visitors to explore Chicago history from their own homes, through the website. The Chicago History Museum is easily accessible by car or public transportation. If you still have time, after visiting the museum, you can take a stroll through Lincoln Park – the largest public park in Chicago.