Canyons and Rapids

“Nothing in the teaming cities of the East or the rolling farmlands of the Midwest prepared the eye for this desert landscape. Both the scenery itself, and that scenery’s epic scale, were utterly unfamiliar” (172).

The Book

Four years after the end of the Civil War, nine men agree to join Joseph Wesley Powell on the Colorado River Exploring Expedition (CREE). Powell’s plan is to map the last unexplored area of the United States. Down the Great Unknown: John Wesley Powell’s 1869 Journey of Discovery and Tragedy Through the Grand Canyon relies on the journals of three of those men to chronicle their adventure.

On May 24, 1869 the ten men set out from the Green River in the Wyoming Territory. They were all seeking adventure, but none had any experience with white water boating and they weren’t a solidified team. There were four boats and supplies to last 10 months. In addition to floating down the rivers, they planned to climb the cliffs out of the canyons, measure the altitudes, and collect fossils. Their journals reveal that most days were difficult: they faced angry rapids, loss of rations, and inclement weather. But Powell’s journal also revealed the experience of seeing the canyons for the first time. On August 29, the finally made it out of the Grand Canyon; their expedition was at an end. One boat had been lost in June, four men had chosen to hike out of the canyon in previous months, and there were less than 10 days of food left.

Down the Great Unknown does more than rely on journal entries, it draws from historians and experienced boatmen to help the reader truly understand what the ten men experienced. Author Dolnick takes the time to explain what it means to line or portage a rapid, the experience of going through a rapid, and the significance of the type of boat used. The narrative is easy to follow as the author switches from journal entries to explanations. One unique aspect was the map at the start of each chapter; it shows the CREE’s location as they floated down the Green River to the Grand River to the Colorado River.  

Ironically, both the Army Corps of Topographical Engineers and a member of Powell’s expedition failed to see the draw of the Grand Canyon. In an 1861 report (Report Upon the Colorado River of the West), Lieutenant Joseph Christmas Ives said, “[This region] is, of course, altogether valueless. […] It seems intended by nature that the Colorado River, along the greater portion of its lonely and majestic way, shall be forever unvisited and undisturbed” (15). Little did they know that one day 5.9 million people, from around the world, would visit every year!

The Place

It’s hard to find words to describe Grand Canyon National Park. As you walk the path from the parking lot to the viewing area, it seems like you aren’t anywhere special. Then, all of sudden, the path reveals a canyon that is a mile deep, 10 miles across, and 300 miles long. The variety of views, colors, and rocks are truly incredible. When my family and I visited the Grand Canyon, we took a bus tour that enabled us to see four viewing areas of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon: Amphitheatre, Mather Point, Bright Angel Lodge, and Desert View. The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is open year-round and access to the North Rim depends on the season.

Our trip also included a boat ride down the Colorado River; it was less eventful than Powell’s expedition, but just as beautiful. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area looks much different than it did during Powell’s trip. The main difference being Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon dam. Despite this, visitors are still awed by the rising canyon walls as they float down the Colorado River. Our trip began at the dam and meandered south until we reached Lee’s Ferry and the Vermillion Cliffs. Our guide pointed out wildlife, unique rock formations, petroglyphs, and parts of the CREE story. The park is open all day, every day.

Due to the coronavirus pandemic, there are still some buildings at both the Grand Canyon National Park and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area that are closed.

The Mighty Mississippi

“It’s impossible to imagine America without the Mississippi” (1).

The Book

The Mississippi River is part of history and legend. Her waters are used for business, pleasure, and culture. Old Man River: The Mississippi River in North American History by Paul Schneider weaves these threads together in what could be called a biography and a memoir.

The biography follows the Mississippi chronologically from the Ice Age to present day. The reader is introduced to not only the Mississippi, but her tributaries and the entire watershed. For most of history, control of the Mississippi was a point of contention and even war – beginning with the Native Americans and ending with the Civil War. At the same time, the Mississippi was also a main artery for commerce, with cultures developing along its banks. River culture first developed among Native American nations and then the Europeans/Americans who traveled west. In 1807, the invention of the steamboat ushered in a new era, having a major impact on economy, tourism, and population in the Mississippi River watershed. “Today, more than 90% of the agricultural exports of the United States – 5 hundred million tons a year – goes down the [Mississippi] river to the world” (211). The last section of the book focuses on the work of engineers to make the river more navigable. Schneider argues that while this makes it easier for commerce, is has a negative impact on the Mississippi’s ecosystem.

This was a unique book to read. Each brief chapter is like a vignette loosely tied to the overall narrative. The memoir intersperses Schneider’s own experiences, whether looking for effigy mounds or floating down the Mississippi with his son, with the history of the Mississippi. This took a bit of time to totally follow, but once I did, I appreciated the organization. A lot of history is covered, but in a way that doesn’t overwhelm or make the reader feel like they missed something. The first-hand accounts from archeologists, recognizable names, and everyday people help bring to life the stories. Throughout the book, Schneider provides word pictures that allows the reader to travel with him and “experience” the Mississippi.

The Place

Unlike other posts on this blog, there isn’t one place to visit when it comes to the Mississippi River. You can see it from Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana. You can drive across it, float down it, or observe it. I have driven across it, walked along it (in Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri), and gazed down on it (in Missouri). I remember the first time I saw it and how I was struck by the width of the river. It was winter in Illinois, so the Mississippi was frozen in many places. The second time, was in St. Louis in the summer. The river was wide and muddy, with barges slowly making their way south. To a certain extent, the Mississippi River is a part of the lore of our culture. It was the final hurdle to the west, it is a geographic barrier, it is a commercial highway, and it lives in narratives. No matter how you experience the Mississippi or what time or year it is, it is an incredible body of water.

Innovative Military Strategist or Villain?

“[Sherman] was a military man with a military mind, and this would become increasingly obvious as he struggled to find himself” (55).

The Book

Sherman. This one name could be one of the most divisive ones in American history. For some, he was an innovative military strategist who helped win the Civil War. For others, he was a villain who laid waste to train tracks and state capitals. In Fierce Patriot: The Tangled Lives of William Tecumseh Sherman, author Robert L. O’Connell aims to focus on Sherman’s actions and how they defined the man.

Fierce Patriot begins with Sherman’s arrival at the United States Military Academy at West Point, tracing his growth as a professional soldier and military strategist through the Second Seminole War and Mexican War to the Civil War. He briefly left the army, trying his hand in the private sector. However, Sherman took the South’s secession personally – as a strong nationalist – and rejoined the army. By 1862, Sherman was a field commander directly under General Grant. The descriptions of major battles include not only Sherman’s words and actions, but also the recollections of the soldiers under his command. He developed a unique relationship with the soldiers he referred to as “his boys”; many of them fighting together for the entire Civil War.

The final section of the book focuses on Sherman’s personal life. At the age of nine, his father dies, and Sherman is taken in by the socially (and soon to be politically) prominent family of Thomas Ewing. Sherman benefited greatly from the education and support of the Ewing name, but was also often at odds with Thomas Ewing. When Sherman married his foster sister Ellen, he had to compete with the long shadow of his father-in-law. The only thing Sherman ever wanted to be was a professional soldier; sometimes his family, events, or he himself got in the way. He retired as general of the United States Army in 1883 and attended as many army reunions as he could.

O’Connell organizes the book in a unique way. There are three separate sections that deal with aspects of Sherman’s character: the military strategist, the general, and the man. There is some overlap and the organization takes time to adjust to, but overall, it is nice to read a biography that isn’t completely chronological. The author does include several analogies comparing the people he writes about to real or fictional people. This doesn’t seem to add much to the narrative, instead distracting the reader. Both Sherman’s words and the observations of others are included; particularly interesting are the interactions Sherman had with Lincoln. Because the book focuses on Sherman, it provides another way to approach the Civil War; even the most read Civil War buff will be drawn in.

The Place

The Sherman House Museum preserves the birthplace of William T. Sherman. Most of the house was restored to appear as it did when the Sherman family lived there. On the tour, visitors will learn about Sherman’s family history and see artifacts from his childhood. A tour guide takes you through the rooms, sharing stories about various pieces (including Sherman’s baby cradle). Half of the second story is devoted to Sherman’s military career. Here, visitors will see artifacts from his time at West Point, a recreation of his Civil War battlefield tent, and items he used during the Civil War. The final upstairs room includes a variety of weapons and military items used during the Civil War, as well as Grand Army of the Republic reunion souvenirs.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday with tours beginning on the hour from 12pm to 3pm. Tickets can be purchased online or by phone and masks are required in the museum. The section devoted to Sherman’s military career is self-guided and includes a lot of reading. The Sherman House Museum can easily be toured in a couple of hours, leaving time to explore the rest of Lancaster, Ohio. Downtown Lancaster has many quaint shops and cafés. A short drive from downtown is Rising Park, which gives spectacular views of Lancaster and the surrounding area.

Chicagoua: The Place of the Wild Onion

“[We] had faith in each other and faith in Chicago. Its future greatness became [our] theme of thought and conversation, and the inspiration of great plans and deeds.” –Grant Goodrich, an early Chicago settler

The Book

“Chicago” conjures up a variety of historical images and thoughts to any hearer: from the “Windy City” to the Chicago Fire. City of the Century: The Epic of Chicago and the Making of America cuts through all the assumptions and presents an urban biography that focuses on Chicago’s rise from the first recorded discovery of an empty prairie in 1673 to a worldwide destination in 1893.

Fur trader Louis Joliet and Jesuit missionary Jacques Marquette set out from the Straits of Mackinac to explore the land to the south, claimed by France. Their detailed notes and maps introduced wide open prairies and new waterways to explorers. These explorers and early settlers recognized Chicago’s geographic potential, as did many who came after them. “Modern” Chicago began in 1848 with the opening of the Illinois & Michigan canal, construction of railroads and turnpikes, and the establishment of the Board of Trade. Business boomed in Chicago and the city took on massive engineering projects. All of that halted on October 8, 1871 when the Great Chicago Fire raged for 30 hours, destroyed 73 miles of streets, and made 100,000 homeless. 

But Chicago wasn’t halted for long: The railroad and new industries (stockyards, luxury rail cars, and mail-order shopping) drove Chicago to a quick recovery. Cable cars and electric trolleys replaced horse drawn carriages, creating the Loop. Architecture boomed with new advances in structural systems and foundations to build even taller buildings. The wealthy advocated for civic patriotism and began funding projects to promote culture and civics. At the same time, many workers and their families lived in unsanitary slums. The plight of the working classes led to demonstrations, some of them fueled by anarchists. In the midst of these extreme contrasts, Chicago was picked to host the 1893 World’s Fair. Visitors flocked to the White City that could not completely cover up slums, political machines, an active red-light district, and industrial strikes. 

Miller takes on a herculean task: cover over 200 years of history in one volume. He does it in a way that helps the reader grasp key concepts and learn interesting tidbits, without loosing sight of the overall narrative. The one issue was the missing pages early on in the book. On a couple of pages, the words did not line up with the following page. Despite that, you are transported to various times and places with details and quotes from journalists, key people, average people, and fictional characters from novels of the time. Mini biographies are interspersed throughout that provide insight into key players in Chicago history, some more well known than others. At no point did I feel like it was too much information or not enough, Miller struck the right balance and also didn’t sugarcoat the stories of people or events. 

*For more information see these blog posts:

·         The Architect and the Skyscraper

·         Flowing through the Windy City

·         The White City

The Place

The Chicago History Museum is a one of a kind museum that uses a variety of exhibits to engage visitors with Chicago’s past. I would recommend beginning with Chicago: Crossroads of America, and if possible, join a guided tour with one of the docents. This section of the museum corresponds almost exactly with City of the Century: The Epic of Chicago and the Making of America. Artifacts from the early settlers, the Great Chicago Fire, and the 1893 World’s Fair make history come to life. Another highlight are the detailed dioramas depicting Chicago as a frontier post to the World’s Fair. The other permanent and temporary exhibits provide hands on activities and a chance to glimpse significant artifacts.

As with most museums these days, The Chicago History museum has had to adapt to life impacted by the coronavirus. Visitors are encouraged to purchase tickets in advance and follow special guidelines, listed on the website. Some exhibits are closed, due to their hands-on nature. The museum has also developed ways for visitors to explore Chicago history from their own homes, through the website. The Chicago History Museum is easily accessible by car or public transportation. If you still have time, after visiting the museum, you can take a stroll through Lincoln Park – the largest public park in Chicago.

“Come On-A My House”

“It’s wonderful to rediscover that heady experience of being in the middle of the music and doing what you want to do and having such a kick doing it” (284).

The Book

For many, Rosemary Clooney is a name that will conjure up tunes from White Christmas. While she may be most well-known for that classic film, Clooney describes herself as “a sweet singer with a big band sensibility” (30). She spent more time performing in concert and recording, than filming movies. In Girl Singer: An Autobiography, Rosemary Clooney invites readers into her life, tracing the role of singing from childhood to adulthood, with all the trials and triumphs along they way.

Clooney grew up in Maysville, Kentucky, along the Ohio River. The oldest of three, with parents who went through multiple separations, she and her siblings lived with numerous relatives. It will surprise readers that Clooney never learned to read music, but always enjoyed singing. In April 1945, she and her sister Betty auditioned at a Cincinnati radio station and were hired as The Clooney Sisters. A year later, they began touring with the Tony Pastor Band. In 1949, Clooney branched out on her own under a contract with Columbia Records.

The song that put Clooney on the map was “Come-on-a-My-House”; she vividly describes her first experience hearing her own voice blaring from all the record stores in New York City. In the midst of recording success, she married actor Jose Ferrer. The marriage was not altogether happy or successful. Clooney takes an honest look at her struggles in the marriage, never placing blame, but sharing how she struggled to do it all (career, marriage, family) and please everyone. The 1960s found Clooney suffering from a mental breakdown, which she describes and is honest about how it impacted her family and friends. She slowly rebuilt her reputation, becoming more comfortable as herself and not trying to live up to the expectations of others.

This is a unique Hollywood star autobiography. Clooney is honest and candid with readers, often revealing how childhood experiences impacted her decisions as an adult. In doing so, the reader is able to look past the famous figure and see the unique human who has struggles just like everyone else. There are two characters in the book, who are not always forefront, but play a significant role: music and the Ohio River. The significance of music is threaded throughout the book: the impact other singers had on Clooney, a peak into the music business, and the effect the notes, arrangement, words, and style can have on a singer. Less prevalent, is the Ohio River. Girl Singer opens with a word image of the Ohio River. A couple of times throughout the book, Clooney references living near a river. Finally, the book closes with her house that sits on the Ohio River. It is what links Clooney to home, “a centering place” (301).

The Place
The Rosemary Clooney House, located in Augusta, Kentucky, is dedicated to the life and career of a singing icon. Clooney bought the house as a retreat from her career and her upstairs bedroom is preserved. Visitors are treated to a walk-through of Clooney’s life and career, which includes the world’s largest collection of White Christmas memorabilia. You can have your photo taken under the Columbia Inn sign, admire the costumes from the “Sisters” number, and be tempted to play a song on Clooney’s rehearsal piano (the one she used to rehearse with Bing Crosby). Throughout the rest of the house are costumes and items from other Clooney films, as well as a tribute to her nephew George Clooney. 

The cost to visit is $5 and street parking is available. Volunteers will take you on a tour and then leave you to wander back through at your leisure. A visit won’t take more than a couple of hours, depending on your level of interest. The Rosemary Clooney House is open from 11am-3pm Thursday-Saturday. It is a good idea to call ahead, although appointments are only required during the winter months. 

Just past the front steps are breathtaking views of the Ohio River; for a closer look there is a landing with benches right on the river. Down the street is the public landing, if you are adventurous—as we were—you can drive your car onto the ferry to ride across the river. Augusta is a perfect example of small-town America. The downtown boasts historic buildings, antique shops, and a general store (complete with restaurant). 

Literature Reflecting Life

“[Tolkien and Lewis’s] depictions of the struggles of Middle-earth and Narnia do not represent a flight from reality, but rather a return to a more realistic view of the world as we actually find it” (xvi).

The Book

For many, the stories of hobbits and fauns conjure up memories from childhood and the clear theme of good versus evil, both on the battlefield and within each character. In A Hobbit, A Wardrobe, and A Great War, author Joseph Loconte argues that the writings of J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis were influenced by their service in World War I. Tolkien served as a battalion signals officer and began writing The Lord of the Rings while he was on the front lines. The hobbits reflected the British soldiers he encountered, in both courage and duty. Lewis was a 2^nd lieutenant who saw active trench warfare.  

Loconte begins by helping the reader understand two contexts: the world in the early 20^th century and the context Tolkien and Lewis grew up in: an era of progress and industrialization, science elevated over religion, and duty. World War I entered this context like a bull in a china shop. The views of man’s rationality were lost in trench warfare and the mass industrialization of weapons destroyed nature. The post-World War I narrative reflected humanity’s disillusionment with life and religion. Tolkien and Lewis’s writing ran counter to that by combining tragedy and hope, showing the individual struggle against evil and the eventual triumph over it. Grief and joy comingle in Middle-earth and Narnia, just as they did on Armistice Day. Loconte concludes by stating, “After returning to England from the front, Tolkien and Lewis might easily have joined the ranks of the rootless and disbelieving. Instead, they became convinced there was only one truth, one singular event, that could help the weary and brokenhearted find their way home: the Return of the King” (193).

A Hobbit, A Wardrobe, and A Great War is a unique book. It serves as a biography, historical account, and commentary. The narrative relies heavily on Tolkien and Lewis’s own words (in the moment and reflections), historians, and prominent and average people from the time period. While World War I is a well-known topic, Loconte uses a variety of personal accounts and imagery to make the story feel new. The best part of the book is the generous use of quotes from The Lord of the Rings and The Chronicles of Narnia to help support the author’s claims and bring new context to the characters.

The Place

The Marion E. Wade Center is an ideal stop for those who enjoy the writings of Tolkien and Lewis. But it doesn’t just focus on those two authors. There are five more British authors (Dorothy L. Sayers, George MacDonald, G.K. Chesterton, Owen Barfield, and Charles Williams) represented, who also blended their faith with their literary work.

On the campus of Wheaton College, the Center includes both a reading room and a small museum. The reading room is open to the public with several guidelines that must be followed. The museum is in one large room that showcases a rotation of exhibits. There is a lot to read and learn about the seven British authors, as well as artifacts on display. I was particularly excited to see the wardrobe that is believed to serve as the inspiration for the wardrobe in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.

The Marion E. Wade Center has free admission and plenty of parking. The museum will not take more than half a day and it isn’t far from downtown Wheaton. Smaller children who are fans of Narnia will enjoy seeing the wardrobe, but the rest of the exhibits might be better for older children and adults.