Gateway to Another Land

“The main building impressed upon immigrants that America was a substantive and wondrous land; the power of the federal government and the American nation made their stamp on the immigrant immediately” (122).

The Book

American Passage: The History of Ellis Island gives the reader a glimpse into one of the iconic places in American history. Author Vincent J. Cannato chooses to present a biography of a place, detailing the birth, growth, and retirement of Ellis Island.

Ellis Island opened in 1890 as a federally-run immigration station. From 1892-1924 twelve million immigrants arrived. Eighty percent were processed in hours, while twenty percent took days or weeks to process at Ellis Island. In 1900, the current building opened. Immigrants were observed and examined for physical and mental health issues, some were detained for long periods of time while others were sent back to Europe. The politically appointed commissioners attempted to enforce an often confusing immigration law, appease national sentiments, cater to immigration societies, and humanize the process.

During the two World Wars, Ellis Island served as a detention center for “enemy aliens” and, ironically, a place of deportation. Throughout the aftermath of the World Wars, Ellis Island became linked to national security. During this time, the buildings fell into disrepair and the station officially closed in 1954. With time, historians and children of immigrants begin to emphasize the importance of Ellis Island. After restoration, it reopened as a national immigration museum in 1990.

Overall, American Passage is a well written, detailed, and interesting book. Cannato provides an unbiased and honest history of Ellis Island, intertwined with the history of immigration. He does not gloss over the anti-immigrant protests and sentiments of the past or the corruption. Yet, the book is sprinkled with stories of immigrants who found a new life once they passed through Ellis Island. As I read American Passage, I couldn’t help but draw parallels to the current immigration debate. Cannato does a superb job addressing this parallel in his epilogue.

The Place

Ellis Island is synonymous with immigration and the Statue of Liberty. In school, we learn of the immigrants traveling to America, glimpsing the Statue of Liberty, and then processing through Ellis Island.

Just like the Statue of Liberty, there is only one way to reach Ellis Island. Statue Cruises provides a ferry to Ellis Island. Once on the island, there are several places to explore. The Great Hall provides a visitor an idea of what it was like to arrive as an immigrant. In this large open space, immigrants would wait in lines to be processed. Guided tours are available for those that want an in-depth understanding of Ellis Island. Visitors can also search the manifests of ships for ancestors that may have arrived at Ellis Island.

Ellis Island is still recovering from the effects of Hurricane Sandy, so some exhibits and locations are unavailable. It is always a good idea to check the website prior to visiting. 
 

Liberty Lighting the Way

“Soon, out of the mist, there loomed high in the air a great, somber, shadowy form, which grew vaguely distinct as the boat approached, and soon the well-known figure of the torch-bearing goddess stood revealed in hazy outlines…” (245).

The Book

Liberty’s Torch: The Great Adventure to Build The Statue of Liberty is both a biography of the sculptor and the sculpture. Author Elizabeth Mitchell introduces the reader to the sculptor, Frederic Auguste Bartholdi. The first chapters of the book cover Bartholdi’s life before he began work on The Statue of Liberty. 

Bartholdi first developed the idea for a grand statue in 1865 and originally proposed the idea to Egypt to commemorate the Suez Canal. Egypt turned him down and in 1871, Bartholdi traveled to America to seek approval there. The next fifteen years were spent fundraising, designing, and building.  Mitchell brings the reader into Bartholdi’s workshop and shows the steps of the construction process. The statue was built in France, then taken apart and shipped to America to be reassembled. On October 28, 1886 The Statue of Liberty was dedicated.

Mitchell provides insight into The Statue of Liberty that many Americans do not know. The statue’s official name is “The Statue of Liberty Enlightening the World.” Made out of 4,000 square feet of copper, the statue was originally red. It turned completely green about 40 years after it’s dedication. It is widely thought that the statue was meant to be a gift commemorating the friendship of France and America. However, “[Bartholdi] wanted to make the largest statue in the world more than he cared to espouse an ardent political view or lavish praise on America” (105). Ironically, few people know the name of Bartholdi today.

Liberty’s Torch is well-written and easy to follow. There are some sections where the author delves into side stories that provide background about various people involved with the statue. These side stories are not necessary, but sometimes provide interesting facts or perspectives. As I read, I wanted to know more about the actual building of the statue. Mitchell mainly focuses on the conception and fundraising for The Statue of Liberty. The book would benefit from a closer look at the construction and engineering hurdles and feats accomplished by the designers and builders.

The Place

A visit to The Statue of Liberty is a one of a kind experience. I have vivid memories of riding the ferry to Liberty Island, exploring the exhibits in the museum in the pedestal, climbing up to the crown, and looking out at New York City from the windows in the crown. 

The only way to access Liberty Island is by ferries operated by Statue Cruises. Once on the island, there are several options for visitors to explore. Tickets are required and visitors must go through security. The pedestal houses the museum and provides views of the harbor and New York City. In the museum, visitors can learn about the history of The Statue of Liberty. One fascinating part is a replica of Liberty’s head that visitors can stand next to and compare heights.

Of course, the main attraction is the statue itself. A climb to the top is well-worth it, but visitors should know what to expect. There is no elevator in the statue; visitors must climb 146 steps on a double spiral staircase. The line on the staircase moves slowly because people stop to look out the windows in the crown. Once at the top, the climb will be rewarded with beautiful views of New York City across the harbor. As you look out the windows, you can imagine what it must have been like for the thousands of immigrants arriving in America and glimpsing The Statue of Liberty for the first time.

Fortress on the Hudson

“The United States Military Academy, a sprawling stone fortification, looks down several hundred feet to the deep Hudson” (p. 35).

The Book

Sacred Ties: From West Point Brothers to Battlefield Rivals introduces the reader to six friends and their journey from the United States Military Academy at West Point to the Civil War. Three of the friends fought for the Union and three of the friends fought for the Confederacy.  While the overall focus of Sacred Ties is the Civil War, it begins with an introduction to the world of West Point. Students at West Point are referred to as cadets and their time is aimed at academics and military training. Tom Carhart does a good job of introducing the reader to life at West Point in the 1860s and pointing out the similarities to training at West Point today.

By following the battles of the Civil War, Carhart is able to follow the careers of each friend. A reader will only recognize one of the six friends: George Armstrong Custer; although the other five contributed significantly to their respective sides of the war. Carhart says, “The Civil War was probably the best demonstration of West Point’s central military role in America history, for in virtually all the major battles of that war both sides were commanded by West Point graduates” (p. 4). Throughout the book, Carhart points out other West Point graduates in addition to the six friends.

While the opening chapters regarding West Point are beneficial, the flow is challenging to follow in places. Carhart attempts to weave stories about the six friends in with training at West Point. It does not always flow as well as it could. Once the focus shifts to the Civil War, the flow improves. Overall, this book provides just enough detail not to overwhelm the reader. It includes lesser known battles and a fresh perspective on the Civil War.

The Place

The United States Military Academy at West Point is a unique place. A visitor feels like she is stepping into a castle fortress built to protect its inhabitants from invaders. The history of America runs deep and visitors can walk in the footsteps of Grant, Patton, MacArthur, Eisenhower, and Schwarzkopf. It is easy to imagine the generals of the Civil War at West Point because little has changed.

The best way to see West Point is to take a tour. West Point Tours, Inc provides guided tours daily and for groups. Some important highlights would be Trophy Point, the Old Cadet Chapel, the Cadet Chapel, and the Plain. Each of these plays a significant role in the history of West Point or the daily lives of each cadet. I would also recommend visiting the West Point Museum. Not only does it provide the history of West Point, but it is home to numerous United States Army artifacts and dioramas of historically significant battles. 

A visit to West Point is fascinating and educational. West Point is the intersection of the history and future of the United States Army. It is important to remember that West Point is a functioning United States Army post that requires visitors to pass through security before entering. 

The Legend, His Newspaper, and His Estate

“If the world refused to do [Robert R. McCormick’s] bidding, then he would fashion a world of his own at Cantigny” (336).

The Book

The history of Chicago and the suburbs is full of larger-than-life characters and their impact on the Windy City. In The Colonel: The Life and Legend of Robert R. McCormick, author Richard Norton Smith introduces the reader to one of those characters. Robert R. McCormick’s grandfather (Joseph Medill) became the managing editor of the Chicago Tribune in 1855, setting up a family dynasty for the next one hundred years. McCormick was made the acting president of the Chicago Tribune in 1911 and oversaw the paper until his death in 1955.

The Colonel delves into more than just the biography of one man. It provides biographies of his ancestors and relatives, co-workers, wives, employees, and newspaper. Smith lays out the facts, with some editorializing, and provides a neutral biography of a controversial man. McCormick was loyal (sometimes to a fault) to America, Chicago, the Chicago Tribune, and his political beliefs; but not to his family. He did what he thought was best and attempted to sway popular belief. In a sense, McCormick was the Chicago Tribune.

The story of Robert R. McCormick is complicated and detailed, which calls for a longer book. Smith’s biography covers a lot of ground, which can be too much for some readers. The book is well written and well researched, but I would only recommend it to those highly interested in the subject manner.

The Place

Cantigny was a family estate that Robert R. McCormick enlarged to his specifications. He named it after the battle he fought (at Cantigny, France) with the Big Red One First Infantry Division in World War I. McCormick bequeathed the estate, in a trust, for the people of Illinois.

Today, Cantigny provides numerous experiences for the people of Illinois. The estate includes a golf course, gardens, the Big Red One Museum, and Robert R. McCormick’s home. The Robert R. McCormick Museum allows visitors an opportunity to learn more about McCormick through a tour of his home. A tour is a great compliment to The Colonel because it helps readers and visitors visualize McCormick and see his ideas come to life. The tour guide introduces visitors to the people who lived in the house as well as the design and items that were placed there.

Guided tours are available year round (the Museum is closed on Mondays) and visitors must obtain a ticket for a tour time. There is a $5 per car entry fee into Cantigny. 

Amphibious Invasion

“If the soldiers of the Big Red One and their partners in the 29^th Division had failed, the Allied position in Normandy would have been severely hindered” (297).

The Book

The Dead and Those About to Die: D-Day: The Big Red One at Omaha Beach, by John C. McManus, tells the story of the United States Army 1^st Infantry Division’s (Big Red One) part in the D-Day invasion. D-Day took place on June 6, 1944 and the majority of the book chronicles the events of that day. The first chapter introduces the reader to the Big Red One and the last chapter focuses on the aftermath of “the longest day.”

McManus begins with an immediate background of the Big Red One: their success in the Mediterranean, arrival in England, and intense training for D-Day. The reader gets to know the type of men and their mindset through first person accounts. The soldiers went through land and sea training so often that they could complete their duties in the dark. Once a brief summary of the attack plan is covered, the book quickly flows into a word picture of the assault. Nothing went according to plan on Omaha Beach: pre-invasion assault did little to the Nazi defenses, the beach was littered with obstacles and mines, the enemy fire was relentless, the tide was coming in, and the beach was getting crowded. Yet, the Big Red One pressed on. By the end of June 6^th, the Nazi defenses were breached and the soldiers made their way inland.

Omaha Beach was one of five beaches invaded by the Allies on D-Day. As I was reading this book, I had to keep reminding myself that the Big Red One was only on two sections of one beach. The Dead and Those About to Die gave me a newfound appreciation for the sacrifices made on D-Day. The infantry fought hard to overcome the Nazi fortifications, the engineers worked amid enemy fire to dismantle obstacles, and the medics stayed in the crosshairs to treat the wounded. Readers will come away grateful for the courageous men of the Big Red One.

The Place

Nestled in the quite suburban park of Cantigny, the First Division Museum is dedicated to preserving the memory of the Big Red One. The land around the museum is populated by tanks and artillery pieces from World War I through Desert Shield. Visitors are invited to touch and climb on the tanks. This is a great feature for kids and even adults. History comes alive when you are able to touch or climb.

Inside the museum, visitors will find an impressive interactive display. The Main Exhibit Hall enables you to walk through the trenches of World War I, land on the beaches of Normandy in World War II, and explore the jungle of Vietnam. This is a truly immersive experience and you actually feel like you are fighting alongside the Big Red One. I have visited this museum numerous times and am always awed by the depth of the displays. The First Division Museum has spring/summer hours and fall/winter hours, so double check before you plan a visit. Admission to the museum is free; however there is a $5 per car charge to enter Cantigny Park.

Eyes Drawn Upward

“Dark, strong, powerful, maybe even a little threatening-like a muscle-bound, Prohibition era gangster clad in a tuxedo-the John Hancock Center says ‘Chicago’…” (101).

“And from certain vantage points, the [Sears] tower possesses a stepped-back silhouette that dominates the skyline…” (107).

The Book

Why Architecture Matters: Lessons from Chicago is a collection of Blair Kamin’s architecture columns from the Chicago Tribune, between 1992 and 2000. The columns cover building proposals and changes, Chicago architects, sports stadiums, the suburbs, skyscrapers, and the lakefront. The reader can tell that Kamin is protective of the Chicago style and the influence it has and continues to have.

Two of the columns focus specifically on the John Hancock Center and the Sears (now Willis) Tower, the “bookends” of the Chicago skyline. Kamin introduces the reader to facts about each skyscraper and the impact they have on the city. The column on the John Hancock Center is a well-written architectural description and details the impact it has on the other buildings and neighborhood. The column on the Sears Tower provides facts about the tower, including the two decades it spent as the world’s tallest building.

According to Kamin, “The best [skyscrapers]…transcend everything and become civic art” (112). The main civic art of Chicago is its skyline and the sense of wonder it can impart. Kamin’s columns provide a detailed story of the past, present, and future of Chicago architecture. Reading the book 14 years after it was published allows the reader to visual the changes described. It is a word tour that allows the reader to travel throughout Chicago history and visualize the impact of the city that invented the skyscraper.

The Place

It is easy to keep your eyes to the sky as you walk downtown Chicago. The historic buildings and ground-breaking skyscrapers entice you to look up. I love walking out of the Metra train station and being immediately engulfed by the towering buildings lining the Chicago River. As you move closer to Lake Michigan, the buildings shorten and suddenly you have the blue lake in front of you and the towering skyline behind you.

The view from the ground can only be matched by the view from the top. Both the John Hancock Center and Willis Tower provide opportunities to observe the city from above. 360 Chicago at the John Hancock Center is 1,000 feet above Michigan Ave. The observatory provides views from all sides and interactive technology that provides information about the skyline. TILT allows visitors to lean over the edge in an all glass case. 360 Chicago is open year-round and there is a general admission cost for adults and children. Skydeck at the Willis Tower is 1,353 feet above the ground and allows visitors to step out on an all glass ledge to view the city below. When you are not on the ledge, you can walk around the observatory for great views of the city. The Skydeck is also open year-round and has general admission cost.

Because the John Hancock Center and Willis Tower are on opposite ends of the skyline, they both provide fantastic and different views of Chicago and Lake Michigan.

Battle Comes to a Small Town

“The watcher was beholding something never before seen from this spot, and never seen again-two great armies, bound for the greatest and most violent collision the North American continent had ever seen” (5).

The Book

Gettysburg: The Last Invasion by Allen C. Guelzo is a complete recounting of the Battle of Gettysburg, from Robert E. Lee’s plan to attack on Northern soil to the dedication of the Gettysburg Cemetery.

Guelzo divides the book into four parts: The March Up, The First Day, The Second Day, and The Third Day. Each section provides a description of the people, places, and events that make the narrative come alive. The division helps the reader understand what happened throughout the several days of battle. Equal time is given to the lead up to the battle, and three consecutive days of smaller battles. The Third Day section describes the Confederate attack so well that the reader can easily picture the lines of advancing soldiers.

Gettysburg provides a lot of detail that can be difficult to process. It can be hard remembering which side a person was a part of and where he fits into the battle. The numerous maps in the book help the reader visualize troop movements and places of battle. Any history buff will find this book fascinating, but it might have too much depth for the average reader.

The Place

Gettysburg National Military Park is a moving place to visit. It is wise to plan at least two days to tour the park and museum. Entry to the park is free, but the Museum and Guided Tours have a fee.

There are several options for touring the battlefield: licensed battlefield guide, guided bus tour, or a self-guided auto tour. My family and I used the self-guided auto tour and enjoyed our freedom to take our time at each stop. The Visitor Center provides visitors an introduction to the battle and an opportunity to view the Gettysburg Cyclorama.

You don’t fully comprehend the magnitude of the Battle of Gettysburg until you visit the site. As you stand atop Little Round Top and look down on Devil’s Den, you appreciate the sacrifice of the men who prevented the Confederates from flanking the Union lines. I remember standing on the Union embankments and looking across the field to the Confederate lines. The Union soldiers fought hard to repulse the Confederate attack and begin the end of the Civil War. 

Flowing through the Windy City

“From the water the famed lakefront is unforgettable, the heavy industry and shipping of the Calumet River is awesome, and Chicago’s history comes alive” (115).

The Book

David M. Solzman’s The Chicago River: An Illustrated History and Guide to the River and Its Waterways provides the reader with a story that links a waterway to the birth and growth of a city. The Chicago River is one of the main reasons for the existence of Chicago; accessible transportation provided a better avenue for trade. Shipping on Lake Michigan could continue through the Chicago River and eventually make its way to the Mississippi River. Industry sprung up along the banks and provided jobs to the communities. However, industry also brought the pollution of the Chicago River. The pollution traveled down the river into Lake Michigan, Chicago’s water supply. In 1900, the Sanitary and Shipping Canal successfully reversed the flow of the Chicago River, away from Lake Michigan.

Solzman divides the book into two sections. The first focuses on the geography of the Chicago River, as well as the history of its development. The second section provides the reader a guide to the Chicago River. This guide is interesting, but is best used if you plan to walk, drive, or canoe on the Chicago River. Solzman provides interesting facts, helpful tips, road directions, wildlife locations, and a bridge guide (38 are movable). The Chicago River is a helpful tool for anyone interested in exploring the river. 

The Place

There are numerous ways to explore the Chicago River, including several boat tour services. A Google search will provide a complete list of the various types of tours and companies. I had the opportunity to explore Chicago through the ShorelineSightseeing’s Architecture Tour. Tours are held regularly throughout the spring and summer, with a revised fall and winter schedule.

Seeing Chicago from the river is a truly unique experience. The tour guide provides information about the buildings, history of Chicago, and people who developed the skyline. From the Chicago River, you are able to see buildings designed by some of the greatest architects from different time periods. History and architecture combine to showcase an original city. 

A Monument for the Ages

“It should be parallel to the river, […] like a triumphal arch” (61).

  

The Book

The Making of an Icon: The Dreamers, the Schemers, and the Hard Hats Who Built the Gateway Arch by Jim Merkel introduces the reader to the stories behind one of America’s most recognizable landmarks.

A reporter first proposed a park commemorating the history of St. Louis and its impact on westward expansion in 1908. It wasn’t until 1947 that a competition was held for the design of that park and monument. Out of 172 entries, Eero Saarinen’s stainless steel arch design was chosen unanimously. “Neither an obelisk nor a rectangular box nor a dome seemed right on this site for this purpose,” Eero Saarinen had said. “But here, at the edge of the Mississippi River, a great arch did seem right” (148). The first piece of the Gateway Arch was finally put in place in February 1963 and the last piece was lowered into place on October 28, 1965. During construction, the Gateway Arch’s foundation consumed 25,980 tons of concrete and the Gateway Arch itself required 5,199 tons of steel and 12,127 tons of concrete.

Merkel provides the reader with firsthand knowledge from the people (or their families) who worked on the project and newspaper accounts. The reader learns how the shape was finally achieved and that the width and height of the Gateway Arch are the same: 630 feet. The chapters are short and by topic, although sometimes randomly placed. There are pictures throughout the book that provide a glimpse of the people and construction process. Overall, The Making of an Icon is easy to read and allows the reader to appreciate the work that went into the Gateway Arch. 

The Place

Officially, the Gateway Arch is a part of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial which is operated and maintained by the National Park Service. The Gateway Arch sits on the western banks of the Mississippi River and towers over everything on the ground.

The entrance to the Museum of Westward Expansion and trams is underneath the Gateway Arch. Inside, visitors will find a history of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, the American Indian, and pioneers. The museum is free, but a ride to the top of the Gateway Arch requires a paid ticket. The price is reasonable and definitely worth it. A replica tram is in the visitor center for visitors who might have difficulty with tight spaces. The ride to the top takes about three minutes and once at the top, you can see for miles to the east and west. The views are incredible, and so is the knowledge that you’re standing in a major engineering and construction achievement.